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My "Official" Stepside Restoration Thread and LS Swap 2021

Overview Gallery Discussion
y5mgisi said:
I have never seen the type that share the same top bolt that were riveted. Thats crazy. Wonder if that was an early dealer option way of doing it?
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I thought that was how they all were honestly. I have no pics of it. I removed the mounts with an air hammer.... They looked factory for sure though. Or somebody that had some damn near factory rivets.... :whistle:
 
I meant, i wonder if they would rivet them at the dealer if they might have been dealer option. I wouldnt be totally..... "shocked"..... if the factory started quad shocks the way yours was. But i know for sure they did it the way as posted above for the 89-91's.
 
I like the install. So now do you have enough travel to worry about the tires hitting the fenders? Will you have to space the bumpstops down?
 
Deuling said:
Thats weird, the quad shock bracket that was on my blazer looked totally different than that. I was another bracket riveted to the frame that was in line with the more rear shock bracket here. The 2 shared the same bolt. But the brackets were definitely factory looking with factory style rivets.
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Thats what I thought too...I had a 85 with quad shocks and I think it was like what you said Adam.

The one I got now is a diesel frame, maybe that is the difference. :dunno:

I never really looked much at it before Martin mentioned it.
 
Thanks for the compliments guys! [emoji144]
andyblack said:
I like the install. So now do you have enough travel to worry about the tires hitting the fenders? Will you have to space the bumpstops down?
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Well my tires could hit the fenders before but now i bet it'll be easier to do.
What I really need is a zero rate to bring the axle an inch forward but I don't want to go any higher.

My drive shaft should be fine. If it ends up being too short then I'll use a spacer. If anything it'll probably hit the cross member on heavy droop.

I have new bump stops on order from a Tahoe. They are about 4" long and should be a little more progressive than the factory ones. Once they get here I'll take some measurements and see if I need to space them down or by how much.

I've always ran boots and never had a problem, I'll think about pulling them.
 
Sounds like a good plan. I wonder if you could drill another hole in the spring pack in front of the hole where the center pin is now and just put the pin in it. That would move the spring pack forward. I don't know if that spring steel is drillable though. I doubt it. Maybe you could find some springs that have an offset hole for the center pin.
 
andyblack said:
Sounds like a good plan. I wonder if you could drill another hole in the spring pack in front of the hole where the center pin is now and just put the pin in it. That would move the spring pack forward. I don't know if that spring steel is drillable though. I doubt it. Maybe you could find some springs that have an offset hole for the center pin.
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:cough: ord springs :cough: :whistle:
 
I like the mounts Glen, looks nice.

On the fuel line, since it is near the header I would probably wrap it with some of that high heat shielding and run it. The nylon is there to protect the rubber, so as long as the rubber is not damaged you should be able to protect it and be good. Might want to inspect it every so often.

If you cut and splice it I think that is a worse reliability in the splice than what you did to it.
 
folkenheath said:
I like the mounts Glen, looks nice.

On the fuel line, since it is near the header I would probably wrap it with some of that high heat shielding and run it. The nylon is there to protect the rubber, so as long as the rubber is not damaged you should be able to protect it and be good. Might want to inspect it every so often.

If you cut and splice it I think that is a worse reliability in the splice than what you did to it.
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The fuel line really isn't close to the header. It is ziptied to the factory fuel line. I cut a few zipties to pull the line out of the frame for the picture. Never had a problem with heat on it. I'm still going to wrap it to keep the nylon from fraying though.
 
Yeah I figured you tucked it back in the frame, but it's still only a few inches away right? Sounds like you have it under control.
 
Son of a bitch!!!!

Threw the battery in to pull the truck out of the garage to wash all the grinding dust off it. Turned the key on to prime the fuel system, then went to check the nicked line for leaks. Fortunately the nicked nylon line is leak free but the return line isn't. Fuel everywhere!
I'm using the factory 3/8" steel line as my return.

Luckily I do have enough pushlock line left to run back to the tank. But what I don't have is the time to install it. I leave on Monday for another month of work and I have plans all weekend. So would it be bad to leave the truck covered in grinding dust for the next month? I just can't shake the thought of humidity getting to it and leaving rust stains all over the paint :eek1:
 
can't you just push it out the door?

pull it out with the Maro! :haha:
 
I have found if you push/pull on the tire lugs and rotate it its easier than pushing the truck by yourself. But if their is an incline, then nevermind. Unless you have 2 come-alongs or a ratchet straps and blocks?
 
or just to drive it in and out you can slice a rubber line and clamp it over the steel line, might work well enough just to drive it in and out of the garage.
 
Fear not, I wound up rigging up a temp line to run the truck. Its rinsed and dust free now! :-D I'll figure out a more permanent solution to the fuel return line when I return. I feel so relieved that I got it washed off.
 
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