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My "Official" Stepside Restoration Thread and LS Swap 2021

Overview Gallery Discussion
the $550 was just for them to clean & bore your old block? because you bought a whole new bottom end right?
i'm getting ready to start my buildup and theengine is the first thing that needs to be addressed. got a block already torn down just gotta get it machined so i can rebuild it. did the shop say anything about swapping cores adn saving any money?


btw, nice build man. i just read from the beginning.
-Steve
 
Smokinthehippies said:
the $550 was just for them to clean & bore your old block? because you bought a whole new bottom end right?
i'm getting ready to start my buildup and theengine is the first thing that needs to be addressed. got a block already torn down just gotta get it machined so i can rebuild it. did the shop say anything about swapping cores adn saving any money?


btw, nice build man. i just read from the beginning.
-Steve
Click to expand...

Thanks! ;)

The $550 also incuded new cam bearings, freeze plugs, oil galley plugs, magnaflux, and casting flash clean up. Just a bore and hone would be less. But I highly recomend springing for the extras to make your life easier and to better the rebuild.
 
crank is in!

Some progress made on the new 355!

I managed to install the crank with high strength ARP main bolts. I double checked all the measurements of the crank journals and all were perfect. I'd rather spend a little extra time on the bottom end and KNOW its right than slap it together and hope it lasts... Also the plastigauge on all main bearings came out to .003" of oil clearance.

Pics:

Gotta have the right tools... aka Dunkin Ds on a cold winter day:

355build004.jpg


Bearings installed:

355build005.jpg


Rear main cap oil passage camffered:

355build006.jpg


Plastigauge results:

355build009.jpg
 
When I had my block punched .030 over, the bill was $360 I think. that was cleaned/checked out, new cam bearings, frost plugs, the bore/hone, and a pair of heads surfaced, and screw in studs installed.

Too bad you didnt get a roller cam block. usually the newer blocks like that, that Ive seen anyway, are roller cam compatible but still came with a flat tappen cam.
 
79rustyk10 said:
When I had my block punched .030 over, the bill was $360 I think. that was cleaned/checked out, new cam bearings, frost plugs, the bore/hone, and a pair of heads surfaced, and screw in studs installed.

Too bad you didnt get a roller cam block. usually the newer blocks like that, that Ive seen anyway, are roller cam compatible but still came with a flat tappen cam.
Click to expand...

Ya it can be retrofited with a roller cam if I had another $300 to throw down on the parts. This is a KISS sorta thing... If I want I can always install one later.
 
I know its easy to retrofit one. for a truck engine the OE GM roller stuff would be pleny good... and cheap.
 
Chevy305 said:
Thanks! ;)

The $550 also incuded new cam bearings, freeze plugs, oil galley plugs, magnaflux, and casting flash clean up. Just a bore and hone would be less. But I highly recomend springing for the extras to make your life easier and to better the rebuild.
Click to expand...
oh yeah i'm def going to get the full rebuild experience. i have a complete long block and i'm going to see if i can use that as a core to eat most of the cost. i think i'm just going to get the 355 short block, i'm comfortable working on top end, but not quite in my building experience yet to risk blowing a bottom end.

thanks for the advise!
 
Pistons

Pistons are in and man that thing looks sexy!

355build011.jpg


355build010.jpg


355build012.jpg


355build014.jpg


The only thing is that I can't seem to find locally the right wooddruff key for the timing chain sprocket and one for the harmonic balancer. Who knows where they are available?
 
Hey so since the body shop has been dragging on the bed and the fact that I am shipping out for 60 or so days starting sunday, I decided to give them the whole truck to fix the bubbling started at the windshield corners and replace the cracked windshield. I just want the thing road worthy again. Especially after I get back it would be great to be wheeling again. Only thing is that with fresh paint I'm gonna have to be real careful of branches... :doah:
 
Didn't you put the first dent in on the first trip out after painting, or close to it?

Just giving you a hard time, hope it turns out nice.
 
lectric80 said:
Didn't you put the first dent in on the first trip out after painting, or close to it?

Just giving you a hard time, hope it turns out nice.
Click to expand...

Nah that was like a year after the paint... asshole friends pushing on my fender, then after they dent it they dont have the integrity to tell me until I notice it later that night :mad:
 
Smokinthehippies said:
oh yeah i'm def going to get the full rebuild experience. i have a complete long block and i'm going to see if i can use that as a core to eat most of the cost. i think i'm just going to get the 355 short block, i'm comfortable working on top end, but not quite in my building experience yet to risk blowing a bottom end.

thanks for the advise!
Click to expand...

If you need any help just let me know, i built engines for a living for the last 22+ years and i'm only about 20 minutes away from you.
 
4X4HIGH said:
If you need any help just let me know, i built engines for a living for the last 22+ years and i'm only about 20 minutes away from you.
Click to expand...

Hey Scott, do you see anything that I may be doing wrong on this engine build? I checked all the ring end gaps and all check out to .020-.018 inches. Also alternated the rings at 90 degree intervals. All bolts step torqued evenly to specs. Plenty of assembly lube used.
 
Chevy305 said:
Hey Scott, do you see anything that I may be doing wrong on this engine build? I checked all the ring end gaps and all check out to .020-.018 inches. Also alternated the rings at 90 degree intervals. All bolts step torqued evenly to specs. Plenty of assembly lube used.
Click to expand...

What brand are the pistons? If they are KB's then those ring gaps aren't enough and will break the head off the piston.
 
4X4HIGH said:
What brand are the pistons? If they are KB's then those ring gaps aren't enough and will break the head off the piston.
Click to expand...

They are hypereutectic Speed Pro pistons. The little sheet inside the box of rings says .016" minimum clearance. Should I still clearance them more?

Also this may sound like a stupid question, but on a flat tappet cam, what keeps the cam from walking foward in the block? I know roller cams use a cam button, so is one not required for my block?
 
Ok so engine is painted and ready to be put away for these next 2 months. All I can say is that this engine is super sexy!

355build015.jpg


355build016.jpg


355build017.jpg


355build018.jpg


355build019.jpg
 
Make certain that you rotate the engine over a couple times a month so the rings don't take a set in the cylinder walls. I would also recommend sticking a large trash bag over the engine to help keep crap from getting into it.
 
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