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My SAS'd and hacked up 92 GMC

DirtRidinz71

1/2 ton status
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Mar 10, 2014
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Canada
New member here but I'll here is my build thread as it never hurts to have more input and ideas. Close to 10 years worth of crap so it may take a bit to get all posted.

Just after high school I bought this 92 GMC ext cab from a family member, added a 3" bodylift, 285's on nbs wheels and dual exhaust. Beat on it like every teenager and had to put a GM crate 350 in it.

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I then bought this 92 rcsb in early spring of 2007 and used the motor, 14 bolt sf rear axle and some other parts from my ext cab

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Also picked up this 89 ext cab for the box and drove it around for a couple months while the rcsb was being built/painted

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Tore the rcsb down and cleaned and painted the frame, all new polyurethane bushing, wiring harness, motor, rear axle, etc

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Back from paint with 2" block, cranked torsion bars and 33x12x15 dick cepek's

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In winter of 07 I was tired of replacing front ends parts from the crank and installed a 6" superlift.

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Then found some used but like new 35x12..5 Baja claw radials

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Along the way I had 4.56 gears installed along with a lockrite in the rear. Did a edlebrock tbi intake, ultimate tbi mods, comp xe249 cam, and chip from tbichips.com, rebuilt the 700r4 trans and did stage 1 shift kit.

In spring of 2010 I bought new 35x12.5 pitbull rockers, added a 1.5" bodylift and did a full realtree camo vinyl wrap. Ran it that way for a couple more years

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In the winter of 2011/12 with the girlfriend pregnant with out first child I put the 92 for sale and bought a 98 GMC ext cab. Did a 2" body lift and 285's.

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Summer of 2012 rolls around still with both trucks so I decided to do a SAS on the 92, original plans was to keep it simple with a D44 and run my 35" pitbulls.

Bought this 1990 K5 blazer, was going to use the front axle, tcase front driveshaft and 52" rear springs.



Ended up selling the tcase and axle for more then I paid for the whole truck and bought a 78 ford D44 high pinion, then bought some used 38.5x15x15 boggers.

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Final specs of SAS are the ford D44, chev 6 lug outer knuckles, rear 9.5 14 sf with 4.56 gears, custom hangers, 52" springs, x-over steering and around 7" of lift.

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Last winter I built some steps/sliders for it, front then front and rear bumpers and peeled the bottom part of the wrap off and painted it with rockergaurd.








Ended up selling the 98 ext cab and girlfriends car and bought a 2005 chevy trailblazer.



Ran the truck a few times and seemed to break a axle shaft or u-joint everytime out.








 
With the rear of the frame getting pretty rotted I went ahead and decided to put the rear driveshaft from the k5 blazer to use and cut the truck down from 117" to 108" wheelbase. I also swapped out the front for a ford 78 D60 and rear 10.25 sterling.








Started on the flatbed







The front axle came with a spring steering arm from TMR. I put a ez-inch from diy4x to move the front axle ahead 1.5". Had a little grinding to do on the ford calipers to clear the 15x10 rims with 2.75 backspacing and had to extend the stock k5 shaft 1.25".






The rear got 2" spacers to match the front track width and a rear disc setup, using the backing plates and calipers from the front corp 10 bolt axle.


 
I like seeing those trucks with SAS. Nice build sir :waytogo:

What's next on the list?

Thanks, next up is to get the hydro assist sorted out and finished up. I have the steering box apart just waiting for the rebuild kit to arrive. Then get the 5.38 gears installed. Finish up a few small things like the steps and paint all the bare metal.






I also ordered up a 2" rough country leveling kit on the weekend for the trailblazer and picked up these 245/75R16 Kelly safari TSR tires

 
You do some good work that thing looks like a fun toy! Very cool to see the progression from where it was to where it is now. :waytogo:
 
Thanks guys! For the most part the build is done, and whenever all this snow melts and the mud is out I'm sure there will be plenty of repairs!

You have the same problem I do, I can't leave anything alone :doah:

It is an expensive problem isn't it! Actually with the trailblazer being our only vechicle means it gets used for hunting and fishing too so the lift actually has some purpose to it.
 
Some minor things done, the end frame rail fishplates welded on, finally got new piece of rubber for the inner fender gaurds and cut the steps down today before taking it down the road to get the gears installed.
Hopefully the weather will come around and warm up some and I'll be able to get the lift and tires done on the trailblazer along with a full tune-up/fluid change








 
Why shorten the wheelbase?

Martin

There really was no reason for shortening it other then that I had a lot of work to do to the frame so might as well make it different. It is mostly used for playing in the mud/trails so the shorter wheelbase has its pros/cons.

Some pictures of the frame before cutting it off, I had painted it with POR15 5 years ago.






It was cracked at the front hangers for the rear springs and where the rear body mounts were welded to the frame.


 
up here in the rust belt I have seen a lot of 88-up frames rust out bad in a few areas .

just behind cab at the cab/box/frame cross member area . the brackets hold mud/junk/water and rot the frame there .

rear W cross member that tie's the rails together and hold the spare tire up to frame .

also big spot is front frame horns . there is a drop section just before it goes up to core support and it holds mud/junk/water and rots from inside out.

seen 1 or 2 only with just under firewall area last section of boxed frame rust / rot out .

and the real common sign of beging problems in the mid frame section is rear cab drop and body lines don't line up to cab/box . rear body mount hangers rust out and body mount drops threw them . buy time you clean up and inspect the frame is not far behind in most cases.

here is my 79k30 frame I had to fix for temp fix and use of truck till I find another k30 or k30frame . http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=309865 bobbed it down from 135 to 110-111" wb now . its nice but as said shorter = problems in some aspects . def need 500=800lbs balest weight now if I run the plow . and very tricky to pick up on lift in a shop now as its so nose heavy .
 
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