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Need advice

I googled "standard open carrier" found a bunch of stuff, but not sure which to buy. Looking for a set. Open carrier and 4.56 or 4.88 gears.

Can anyone help me out with that?
 
Rough Idea on what you would need. Not positive on all the specs and quality, so don't go buying things based on my links!! :)

Open Diff ($97):
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product...c_title_dp_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Spider gears for Open Diff ($106):
https://smile.amazon.com/SVL-100204...rds=DANA+10020478&qid=1569857829&sr=8-1-fkmr0

Gears (x2) - $175 x 2:
https://smile.amazon.com/Yukon-Gear-GM8-5-456-Performance-Differential/dp/B003NZQ6CA/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=yukon+gear+4.56+gm+8.5&qid=1569858168&s=automotive&sr=1-2&th=1

Bearing Kits (x2) - $119 x 2:
https://smile.amazon.com/Yukon-Gear...T8Q8PGAMXEW&psc=1&refRID=BHDHY399PT8Q8PGAMXEW

Gear Oil

If your frame is cracked at steering box, I'd get this:
https://www.offroaddesign.com/catalog/steeringkit.htm
Weld In Frame repair
May also add steering frame brace.
 
Blue85 said:
Is this in combination with the california-only electronic carb? I've never seen a factory-installed pressure switch on an external pressure port. The mid-80's valve bodies have pressure switches internally. Usually the external switches were put on as part of a TCC lockup retrofit kit. Did the truck CCC control TCC lockup?

Sorry, I thought it was a 1983 model based on your user name. Going back, I see it's an '87. The internal wiring for the '87 and up transmissions is simpler than the 82-86 models since the control is supposed to come from the ECM on the later ones. You need to search here and read up on the different options for getting lockup going again. I wouldn't let a shop "install the harness" until you know which parts they're actually putting on and you've weighed the options. There are different approaches, like adding brake and vacuum switches, to vehicle-speed based aftermarket setups to valve body modifications that provide lockup with no wiring at all.
Click to expand...
I know 84 and 85 had the ecm yes
 
jeff in co said:
Rough Idea on what you would need. Not positive on all the specs and quality, so don't go buying things based on my links!! :)

Open Diff ($97):
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product...c_title_dp_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Spider gears for Open Diff ($106):
https://smile.amazon.com/SVL-100204...rds=DANA+10020478&qid=1569857829&sr=8-1-fkmr0

Gears (x2) - $175 x 2:
https://smile.amazon.com/Yukon-Gear-GM8-5-456-Performance-Differential/dp/B003NZQ6CA/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=yukon+gear+4.56+gm+8.5&qid=1569858168&s=automotive&sr=1-2&th=1

Bearing Kits (x2) - $119 x 2:
https://smile.amazon.com/Yukon-Gear...T8Q8PGAMXEW&psc=1&refRID=BHDHY399PT8Q8PGAMXEW

Gear Oil

If your frame is cracked at steering box, I'd get this:
https://www.offroaddesign.com/catalog/steeringkit.htm
Weld In Frame repair
May also add steering frame brace.
Click to expand...

Thanks a lot for those links. I have the 8.5, 10 bolt axle so I suppose all of this would work for me.

So If I am doing both axles then it would be 2 of each correct?
 
Kyle1983 said:
Thanks a lot for those links. I have the 8.5, 10 bolt axle so I suppose all of this would work for me.

So If I am doing both axles then it would be 2 of each correct?
Click to expand...
One carrier, one set of spider gears that takes care of replacing the gov loc.
The rest is 2 sets of gears and 2 sets of bearing kits, and 2 installation kits (shims)
Not sure if the bearing kit comes with shims.
Also make sure the front are not different.
I know the axle itself is different but not sure if the gears are different.
Both are 10 blots but I believe the rear is 8.6" not 8.5"
 
they are both 8.5 and you can use 8.5 ring and pinion in both 8.5 and 8.6. You can use the carrier from the 8.6 in the 8.5, but not the 8.5 carrier in the 8.6. I have 8.6 Detriot true trac's in my 8.5 housings.
 
imiceman44 said:
One carrier, one set of spider gears that takes care of replacing the gov loc.
The rest is 2 sets of gears and 2 sets of bearing kits, and 2 installation kits (shims)
Not sure if the bearing kit comes with shims.
Also make sure the front are not different.
I know the axle itself is different but not sure if the gears are different.
Both are 10 blots but I believe the rear is 8.6" not 8.5"
Click to expand...


So it's about 1300 USD including the additional fees associated with importing.

Look correct?

Screenshot_20190930-224431_Chrome.jpg
 
Last edited:
Looking at the cover, the top right hand bolt hole is about 1/2 a bolt off.
 
I told the local shop I will buy and import but he said come in friday and show him what I am looking at, he might get me a better price. So I will see him first. He is a classic car specialist shop here in Sweden.

As for the gear choice. You all know my setup, looking at 4:56 or 4:88. What is better for a summer cruiser around town and ocassionally on the highway. No pulling and no offroad. I want some response when I hit the gas but nothing that will destroy parts.

Give me your thoughts!
 
I have run 4.56's for over twenty years, without breaking anything. I am not a serious four wheeler. Tow my 19 foot boat and my jet skis in the summer and play in the snow in the winter. I have run them with 35s, 700r4 and cruise at 75-80 mph for long distances, below 2400 rpm. I now run 32" tires and it is very responsive from a dead stop.
 
Kyle1983 said:
I told the local shop I will buy and import but he said come in friday and show him what I am looking at, he might get me a better price. So I will see him first. He is a classic car specialist shop here in Sweden.

As for the gear choice. You all know my setup, looking at 4:56 or 4:88. What is better for a summer cruiser around town and ocassionally on the highway. No pulling and no offroad. I want some response when I hit the gas but nothing that will destroy parts.

Give me your thoughts!
Click to expand...
For you I would go 4.56
If you want to get more power and don't care about top speed, (no idea what the speed limit is in Sweden) then 4.88
I am going with 4.56 with 35" tires and I will be towing but I also have a bigger engine.
 
Thank you for the advice. Most roads in Sweden are equivalent 49 to 62 MPH. Rarely will you see roads over 62 MPH.

So 4.88 is probably best with my low speed roads?

I am installing a lockup harness so my vehicle will shift into 4th gear (overdrive) IF I get 4:88 gears, do I still need a lockup harness?
 
Kyle1983 said:
Thank you for the advice. Most roads in Sweden are equivalent 49 to 62 MPH. Rarely will you see roads over 62 MPH.

So 4.88 is probably best with my low speed roads?

I am installing a lockup harness so my vehicle will shift into 4th gear (overdrive) IF I get 4:88 gears, do I still need a lockup harness?
Click to expand...
The transmission will shift into 4th no matter what, the torque converter lockup is to protect the transmission by eliminating the slippage once it locks which keeps the fluid temperature lower and engine rpm also lower
 
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