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New addition to the "family". Rust repair? Some tricky spots...

cdoggwsu said:
So I'm beginning to wonder if this problem is more of an issue with the trans than the motor. On flat ground it seems to shift normally although I'd like it to hold the gears a tad bit longer before downshifting. The problem seems to come on steeper grades. When you get deeper into the pedal where maybe a healthy trans would upshift this thing just kinda wallows. I came across an old posting of Can Can's where he mentioned a shop fiddling with his TPS and the TV cable and I'm wondering if I should look into that.

I found the TV bracket but I haven't attempted to adjust it yet. If it's out of whack could that explain the drive-ability issues I've been experiencing?

I checked the IP advance lever that bradshawtech mentioned and everything appears to be functioning correctly.
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I bought Can Can's diesel pick-up three years ago. That pick-up still has issues with not downshifting when it should on medium/shorter grades. OD down to 3rd is the usual culprit, and it's where I now regularly just pull the shifter down one notch for particular grades I drive almost daily. I may have to double check the TV set-up...

Rene
 
Thats a pretty decent Burb ya got there!...I'm jealous,yours has barn doors!..wish my '85 did..but mine has less mildew!..:D

The 6.2's are no ball of fire ,no matter what you do ,without a turbo they are just plain sluggish in my opinion..my pickup with a TH400 pulls great at low rpms,but gets anemic on hills and when you want to blast up to freeway speeds,and I assume the Suburban might be even slower,though its 3.73 gearing and 700R4 with a lower first gear might help offset that slightly,but the extra weight will be a factor as well..

I'm dying to get my Burb on the road,but so far money has been near impossible to come by,and it'll need a tranny or have it overhauled,that & the insurance and registering it will cost more than I paid for it..I'm worried by the time I do go to use it it'll be as rusted as my pickup is now..I need to move to AZ..
 
Well I've been tinkering with it for awhile now. The tranny started leaking BAD so I took it in...

2G's later (:() I've got a fully rebuilt 700R4/208. It was amazing that this thing still had all it's gears. The band was dead, some of the clutches were almost down to metal and the rear spider assembly was all chomped up. The leak was actually coming from a cracked weld on the (aftermarket) torque converter. The 208 was also leaking between the case halves so I got that sealed up too.

It drives a little better now but it's still weaker than it should be and smoking like crazy. I've burned through most of the old fuel and added a fair amount of diesel kleen in the process. I'm still chipping away at small fixes, I'll update if anything changes.
 
kgblazerfive said:
Do the fuel filters yet ?
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Filter(s)? I just did the brick on the firewall. Are there more? There's enough black smoke to say that it's certainly not starving for fuel. Is there a timing adjustment or anything that can get out of whack? Is it possible that the IP could be turned up too much? The PO obviously had plans with that spare IP and the j-code intake.
 
cdoggwsu said:
Filter(s)? I just did the brick on the firewall. Are there more? There's enough black smoke to say that it's certainly not starving for fuel. Is there a timing adjustment or anything that can get out of whack? Is it possible that the IP could be turned up too much? The PO obviously had plans with that spare IP and the j-code intake.
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It sounds like the IP has been turned up, which should make it smoke more noticeably, but should also make it more 'peppy'...and I use that term loosely for a Suburban.

Improved intake and improved exhaust will help make a bit more power and lessen the smoke a little. Might want to bolt up that 'J' code intake and put some much bigger exhaust on it. Diesels don't need backpressure at all, so there is no worry about going too big for the exhaust other than noise level.

You can check the pump timing to see if it's at least close to where it should be. From the front of the motor look down at the IP and you'll see where it mates to the engine itself. There is a scribe line on the IP and on the block. In a perfect world when those lines match the timing is right. Generally you can add a bit more timing without worry though. If you loosen the three nuts holding the IP and rotate it towards the drivers side so the IP's scribe line is no more than 1/16" past the line on the block. That's about the mximum you want to go. You'll know if you're going the right way because the clatter will get louder. If it gets quieter you went the wrong way.

Rene
 
tRustyK5 said:
It sounds like the IP has been turned up, which should make it smoke more noticeably, but should also make it more 'peppy'...and I use that term loosely for a Suburban.

Improved intake and improved exhaust will help make a bit more power and lessen the smoke a little. Might want to bolt up that 'J' code intake and put some much bigger exhaust on it. Diesels don't need backpressure at all, so there is no worry about going too big for the exhaust other than noise level.

You can check the pump timing to see if it's at least close to where it should be. From the front of the motor look down at the IP and you'll see where it mates to the engine itself. There is a scribe line on the IP and on the block. In a perfect world when those lines match the timing is right. Generally you can add a bit more timing without worry though. If you loosen the three nuts holding the IP and rotate it towards the drivers side so the IP's scribe line is no more than 1/16" past the line on the block. That's about the mximum you want to go. You'll know if you're going the right way because the clatter will get louder. If it gets quieter you went the wrong way.

Rene
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Just checked and the scribe line on the IP side is turned the opposite direction (toward passenger side) about 1/16". I'll put it back to center and give it a drive, then maybe try bumping it the other direction.

What reason would there be to turn it the direction it's currently in?
 
Well I turned the IP back to center. That helped a bit but it was still dogging and smoking like crazy.

I ended up getting ahold of a local diesel shop and he suggested pulling the vacuum lines on both the egr flapper on the driver side exhaust manifold and the valve on the intake.

Success! It really is like a whole new motor. No more smoking unless you're really on it and it can actually climb a hill without shifting up to 1st gear. What a crippling system :confused:, but this is the night and day difference I was hoping to achieve.

Anyway, it's still a dog but much more within reason. Thanks for all of the suggestions, fellas.

Now to track down the oil leak...
 
Well this didn't last long.

I've been driving this thing pretty regularly since I got it running good and it's been great up until last week. I was about a half mile from home at a stop light. Light turns green I start accelerating like normal - nothing excessive - and all of a sudden the engine starts knocking really loud from what sounds like the passenger side. It kind of shuddered for a second but then smoothed back out so I drove straight home and parked it.

WTF could this be? I've started it a few times since then and it has no problems (other than cold temps/long cranking) starting and running. When started cold there is no knocking then after about 20 seconds or so the knock comes back. I checked for a stuck injector (cracked the injector lines one a time while it was running plus no excessive smoke) or loose flywheel bolt but no luck. It doesn't sound like a busted crank and the harmonic balancer still looks and feels good with no endplay. If it was a valve issue wouldn't it cause the motor to run funny and/or smoke excessively?

If we get a break in this rain I was planning on pulling the valve covers and oil pan but is there anything in particular I should be looking out for? I'm hoping I'm not totally screwed here - I don't have a good indoor place to work on this and the weather is turning $hitty meanwhile I'm contemplating a 1200 mile move...

I was looking forward to using this thing as a winter beater. :(
 
Last winter my '82 K2500's 6.2 started clattering badly while driving down the road at 35 mph,on my way to the local landfill with a load of trash...I pulled over into a parking lot,and it kept on clattering--I thought it might have spun a bearing,but it still had good oil pressure--opening the hood,I could tell it was the drivers side making the noise,and it sounded more like a stuck lifter--the engine didn't skip though..I babied it the rest of the way to the dump and the 3 mile ride home,and was not happy about the prospects of not having the truck to plow with the rest of the winter--it was only december !..and I surely didn't feel like having to swap a motor in it...

Well,I had remembered a few weeks earlier,that I had found a dead glow plug in the second cylinder back on the drivers side,and being broke,I swiped a used Autolite one I had in a parts engine I have that has a busted crank into that cylinder..well,apparently it didn't like being the only Autolite glow plug,the rest weew 60-G AC ones...the Autolite one had broken in half,and evidently the rest of it went for a ride in the cylinder...what I heard was the remains getting smashed into the piston..

When I got about half a mile from home,I figured I might as well finish off the engine--and I dropped it in low at about 25 mph and wound it up till the govenor kicked in a few times..almost immediately,the clattering decreased a lot...once I got in my driveqway,it actually sounded normal!..now it has a sound like a sticky lifter after a cold start,that wont go away until the engine is warmed up fully--but its still running at least...I put a new AC 60G plug in that cylinder and swore off EVER using an Autolite in either of my diesels..I wont use the old GM "9G" or anything else with my manual glow plug switch again...I still fear the engine might be on death row,especially this time of year when I NEED it to plow all winter!..
 
Thats another reason to NOT use a manual switch and to use the SAME glow plugs in each cylinder never mix and match

Diesel4me your lucky its still running!!! lol
 
Yea,I know--still fearing the worst every time I start it!..:doah:...
I think if you "mix" different glow plugs and use a manual switch the one(s) with the lowest resistance get the hottest and the others barely glow..unless the Autolite one I put in just happened to be cracked already,but I doubt that--I looked it over good and tested it with jumper cables before I installed it..

I bought a box of 8 60G AC glow plugs at Autozone a few years ago,and when I finally went to use them,I noticed one was NOT an AC 60G,it was a "Wellman" brand one in an AC box!--I took it back and tradedit for another AC one,I wasn't taking any more chances using one "oddball" one after what happened with the Autolite one!..glad I looked close at them before I put them in or it could have been a repeat of the first dilema all over again..I dont see how guys can reccomend just starting up a diesel that you broke off a glow plug tip on,to expel the busted peices,I dont see how it can NOT harm the engine,even if the glow plugs break up fairly easy--they must be hard and cylinder walls dont like hard things getting crushed between the rings and piston!..
 
Yeah I dont condone that practice. I pull the head to get them out
 
When I got this thing every single glow plug (focking Autolites!) was dead and the controller wasn't working. I was able to get 5 of the 8 out and replaced with 60G's, the other 3 were too swollen so I just left them unplugged and wired up a manual switch.

I'm fairly certain the knock is not a broken plug, it sounds way too mechanical and rhythmic to be something bouncing around in a cylinder although anything is possible.
 
It might be a rocker arm,I see the 6.2's use a shaft type rocker arm with crappy plastic "retainers" that are supposed to keep them in place on the shaft--maybe one sheared off and is letting the rocker float around on the shaft?..

I'm not having much luck with my Suburban either--yesterday I noticed oil dripping from under the engine,right onto the drivers side exhaust pipe..I went to investigate,and thought maybe the oil cooler lines had rusted thru,but after spraying everything down with brake cleaner and watching the area while it was running--it appears to be leaking out of the HEAD GASKET..that is probably going to be the final straw for me--I cant waste any more $$$ fixing this thing and my back is permanently fubared from the 2 weeks of agony I had putting a plow frame & pump setup under it..I'm ready to drive it to the crusher...before I cut both my wrists..:(
 
diesel4me said:
When I got about half a mile from home,I figured I might as well finish off the engine--and I dropped it in low at about 25 mph and wound it up till the govenor kicked in a few times..almost immediately,the clattering decreased a lot...once I got in my driveqway,it actually sounded normal
Click to expand...

Well I had a similar experience this evening. Since the knocking started it has come back every time I've started it up until tonight. From a cold start it usually takes a good 30 to 45 seconds before you can hear the knock but this time it never came. After running for a minute or so it started coughing, sputtering and chugging like crazy for a few seconds, then it smoothed out and started idling like normal again...NO KNOCKING!?!?

I let it come up to temp and took out out on the highway for a good 10-15 min drive...seems to run better than it did before.:confused:

I'm not convinced yet that it's all OK but it acted damn strange tonight.
 
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