Thanks will take pics I have been reading through your thread up to page 30 had to take a break my eyes started to hurt I have some questions I hope you could answer for me about the tail pan area that you did on your beast. how did you tackle these areas. Thanks
Sorry man, crashed a little early last night and didn't get to this.
I guess I'll start with the words "Go Slow". You are probably going to want to just start in and hack all of that out. I wouldn't.
If you start out nice and slow, seeing where every piece connects and why/how it will go back together a ton better.
I really don't know how to write this up, so I guess I'll just do it in the order that I would go. This maybe right of wrong, but it should make you go slow.
Take the tail gate off.
Take the rear lights out. (Here you'll be able to see two of the four weld nuts that hold on the tail pan).
Take out the wheel tubs. Along the side of the bed and abound the tubs, you will see the top heads of some carriage bolts. Some maybe tacked into place. All of these need to be removed somehow. Although, these should stay in place due to the square punch hole that they go through, with the amount of rust that you have on some of them, they are going to spin in the holes. I cut a groove in the top of the heads to to fit a big screw driver to hold them in place. Or maybe you can get the grinder in there to cut down the heads like a rivet.
With those removed, you should be looking at the bed, with the wheel wells out and all of the surrounding bed material free except at the tail pan.
There are spot welds through the bed material (In every valley) that are welded to the tail pan. Some here use a spot weld cutter for these. I've never owned one and just used a 3/8" drill bit to drill the weld.
Pic of spot welds.
Spot weld cutter
http://www.eastwood.com/welders/spot-weld-cutters.html
This is by far one of my favorite tools for rust repair. Once you drill down into the weld, take this tool from under and give it a whack and they should pop loose.
http://paceperformance.com/i-7136354-ewt31138-panel-separating-knife.html
I don't know if you will still see them, but there are two fillet welds on top of the bed material and the bottom of the C pillar. Those will need to be cut out too.
At this time, your bed should be loose from the tail pan and quarter panels. I would start my first cut at the first bed reinforcement that you see, just behind the wheel well and be left with something like this.
Now it's on to the tail pan. You can see in the above photo that mine wasn't that bad. I cut out the rust on the very top of the pan and replaced it in two areas with a little thicker metal. Yours might need to be replaced, just don't know yet.
If it does, I can't figure out what one it is on this page, but give Wes a call at Classic Heartbeat and he will know what you need.
http://www.classicheartbeat.com/sheetmetal2.htm
This is the one that you want, just not in a step side.
http://www.classicheartbeat.com/catalog/Sheetmetal/discp/67-72 Stepside Rear Cross Sill.htm
http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/cb/full.aspx?Page=26
This has a pic, (Bottom right #5) but it does not look correct for the rear pan, as it looks open on the top. The bed floor can be replaced with part #3 on the top pic, but I would get #5 too, for other areas that may need to get replaced. IIRC, I did order these parts from LMC and they were good panels. I think that they were Key Parts.
The pan will come out from in between the quarter panels with a little bit of love, it just needs to be moved in the right way. That is, after you get all four bolts out of each end.
Remember, When you get all of this open, it's a perfect time to get out the old sand blaster and blast everything that you can. That way you can see what the bottom lips of the quarter panel really look like. They might need to be replaced from the looks of your photo.
Hope this helped a little, as I know I'm not very good at writing these things up. If you have any questions, post up with a ton of pics. We like pics.
Or you could just do a flat panel bed like Ryoken (Resident body work God) and not worry about any of this stuff.
Another great thread for Rust repair is Greg's
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=224462
Or Brian's
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=212062
The king of all threads.
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=194154
And a step by step on body work.
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=283048
