CK5
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New shop build.
- Thread starter blazinzuk
- Start date
How big is the shop though. Two doors almost seems overkill it its only say 35ft wide two 16ft doors and you have seven feet left. If you have one 18-20 ft door and cant get a trailer and truck and whatever, you should turn in your man card.
rampage
3/4 ton status
yea yea yea, minus the math the point is still there.
-Until you open those huge doors on a frigid day,and all your heat vanishes in a few seconds,that will take an hour to recover!..
..I like wide doors though,my garage has a 10x10 and at times I wish it was wider..
That's what I'm trying to balance. But in all reality the doors won't open often when it's cold
Just read through this. As for the walls, I did the horizontal 2x4s and osb with r19 insulation. Going r30 on thr ceiling. I left a 2 foot tall section out until all of the electrical is done. Then I can always remove it later to add more electrical.
I went with 10 feet wide doors. Go 12 feet minimum. Pulling the semi in is a white knuckle endever. One door as tall as can fit.
HEAT THE FLOOR.
I went with 10 feet wide doors. Go 12 feet minimum. Pulling the semi in is a white knuckle endever. One door as tall as can fit.
HEAT THE FLOOR.
I find my quonset takes about 30 seconds to lose ALL the heat,if I go to pull a vehicle in it...unless I have a helper who's good at opening and closing the overhead door in record time!..and it'll take quite a while for you to get it warm in there again...it is not insulated at all though either..
I really wish I could I really really do. And maybe I will regret it but I'm not willing to wait to pour concrete. It would be next year working with trucks half in half out in 20 below temps sucks.
With my budget I just don't see it happening. If our house had sold for more I could at least put pex in but it didn't
My shop in Idaho Falls that was insulated really only took 30 minutes or so to fully recover from an opening and this will be insulated better
My last shop here I built a 26x24x9 heated work room in it. Was really nice to have the tools warm all the time.
My addition out the back will be my tool/clean room. It will be 15x20
Heat that floor.
Heat half of the floor at least lay the pex in the concrete and set the system up later.
Floor heat rocks when you have to work under something.
Floor heat rocks when you have to work under something.
A well insulated door get pretty heavy so be careful how big you go if your planning on lifting them by hand.
It's a lot easier to not open the existing doors on a cold day, than it is to open non existing doors on a hot day........
Martin
Martin
This reminds me I need to purchase a fan for my shop, or AC..
I put a 24" exhaust fan on the peak of the rear wall in my quonset--you can fry eggs on the metal arches this time of year !..it'll get very hot in there with the doors closed on sunny summer days..
I used a similar floor fan I made for awhile till I found the exhaust fan cheap,I took one off a large hanging Modine heater that was in a junk car at the junkyard and sawed a 2 foot circle into a pallet to make a stand for it...was better than nothing...
With the exhaust fan running and the walk in door open,it stays pretty comfortable in there now..
Its also a must for removing paint fumes or smoke when the wood stove decides to back draft ..
I used a similar floor fan I made for awhile till I found the exhaust fan cheap,I took one off a large hanging Modine heater that was in a junk car at the junkyard and sawed a 2 foot circle into a pallet to make a stand for it...was better than nothing...
With the exhaust fan running and the walk in door open,it stays pretty comfortable in there now..
Its also a must for removing paint fumes or smoke when the wood stove decides to back draft ..
The Pex tubing is actually not very expensive, you can install it and just not use it. Install on 12" centers, pressurize to 20lbs and pour the slab. I would put down a reflective bubble insulation at minimum below it, that can also act as a moisture barrier for the bottom of the slab. I love my garage floor heat, it however doesn't heat up very fast so I want to install a forced air heater. I had a small 1500 watt electric heater that I put near me when I went out for short work session one winter and it worked ok. I keep my garage between 48 and 55 as the base temp then if I have a weekend project I kick it up to 65 on Friday morning and hold it there all weekend then let it cool off starting sunday night. It usually takes until Tuesday morning to get back down to the setpoint.
Down the road if you come into a low cost boiler or heating system that you can hookup to the tubing then you get floor heat, it's awesome heat for working on things, especially when your under a vehicle.
I only have R-19 batt in my garage walls but do wish I had done more, that said most of your heat loss will be from the ceiling. i would do R-21 batts in the walls and R-50+ in the ceiling if it was me. If you can do more wall insulation do it but the ceiling/roof is more important.
Big garage doors are expensive and almost not needed, I would look at a simple 9'X9' door and then a 12'X12' door. I would love to have a shop that I could just back a trailer with a rig on it into without much issue. 90% of the work you do though the 9'X9' door will sufice. I can put both my snowmobile trailer and buggy trailer in my 9' wide door but only have about 1/2" on either side of clearance.
One thing I notice in the winter is that most of what I move into and around my garage would fit through a 4' to 5' wide opening. You might think about installing a pair of doors for the main walk door. A pair of 3'-0 Metal doors without a center astragal would allow you to have a near 6' wide 6'-8" tall opening to bring things like snowblowers, lawn tractors etc. in and out without opening the big doors. Not sure if that's worth it or not?
Plan on a 5" slab with 12" thick pads for a lift, you can even block out the pad areas and pour them "seperate" so you know where they are and can avoid putting your Pex in those areas.
All I can think of for now,
Down the road if you come into a low cost boiler or heating system that you can hookup to the tubing then you get floor heat, it's awesome heat for working on things, especially when your under a vehicle.
I only have R-19 batt in my garage walls but do wish I had done more, that said most of your heat loss will be from the ceiling. i would do R-21 batts in the walls and R-50+ in the ceiling if it was me. If you can do more wall insulation do it but the ceiling/roof is more important.
Big garage doors are expensive and almost not needed, I would look at a simple 9'X9' door and then a 12'X12' door. I would love to have a shop that I could just back a trailer with a rig on it into without much issue. 90% of the work you do though the 9'X9' door will sufice. I can put both my snowmobile trailer and buggy trailer in my 9' wide door but only have about 1/2" on either side of clearance.
One thing I notice in the winter is that most of what I move into and around my garage would fit through a 4' to 5' wide opening. You might think about installing a pair of doors for the main walk door. A pair of 3'-0 Metal doors without a center astragal would allow you to have a near 6' wide 6'-8" tall opening to bring things like snowblowers, lawn tractors etc. in and out without opening the big doors. Not sure if that's worth it or not?
Plan on a 5" slab with 12" thick pads for a lift, you can even block out the pad areas and pour them "seperate" so you know where they are and can avoid putting your Pex in those areas.
All I can think of for now,
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^^ Has some really good points.
