New Solid Axle Swap Info. WARNING BIG PICS AND LOTS OF THEM!! SORRY PARTED OUT TRUCK

[sweetk30]

new info as the old one dried up. this is my start to a 88-up solid axle swap. got pics from bare frame to full done. if you have questions just ask and i will do my best to answer them.

PICS WILL BE BIG AS I HAVE FOUND IT EASYER TO SEE STUFF THAN WITH SMALL PICS.


first 3 is the 88-up 2x4 frame with all hardware from front removed and checked over for any problems.

 

[sweetk30]

the next step was the rear system. first was ord 4" flip kit with lowering shackles used in reverse. then 3" block and all of this on stock 1 ton rear springs 64" for the 88-up part# is 22-797.

updat : found bad spun spindle on right side of axle. swaped it for a 93 1ton 14ff van axle. this also gave me the +3" more width.

 

[sweetk30]

next was the caping off of the coil buckets and fixing the comon rear cab mount holes. the cab mounts dont go bad on most of them just the hole in the frame rusts out.

 

[sweetk30]

the front hanger was easy. first took the spring center for the solid axle from 73-91 trucks. 31.5 and added up the width of the springs and bushings and got 35" total with. also subtracted the width and got inside width of 28" total. all of this on stock 73-91 style rear 52" springs with 5 leaf and over load part # 22-553 springs.

took these mesurements and speced out my 2.5x2.5x1/4 thick tube and added tabs to one side made from 3x3x1/4 angle. then i got the tube clamped to the frame and centered it. set some more angle on there to weld to the tube and bolt to the frame. i set the spring eye holes up 1 1/4" up from the bottem of the brackets.

mounted it all to the frame with the 2 stock tow hook bolt holes and nut welded in tube on each end and up threw angle piece. will put 2 more bolts in each inside brace to frame when done.

updated spring info in later postes please read for the answers.

 

[sweetk30]

to make rear mounts i used the stock 73-91 style 1/2 or 3/4 ton front hanger for the rear springs to frame. took the factory brace off and cut them down in hight. also needed to heat frame and bend out flat at the two bolt hole sections . you are able to fit your hand and wrench in the boxed section of the frame to hole the bolt as you tighten the nut. i used grd 8 with grd 8 washers and grd 8 crimp nuts.

all of this is held in with stock rear shackles. thay are the same from 73-91 and 88-up is just a bit bigger as for the metric bolt hole.

i gather about 3-4" of lift from just the hangers and as we all have found 4" of lift from the rear 52" springs.

note!!! at this point of mounting i found you cant put springs all the way to the front. the rear hangers wont clear the bend in the frame rails. easy fit . just spun the cross member around 180 and rebolted it back up.

 

[sweetk30]

just a quick over view of the project so far. i have to get my 350tbi in there and 4l80-e 2x4 fixed yoke tranny in also. this will all be feeding a divorced 205 from a internatinal unit. then i have a real good cab to put on it with new frt end body parts. this will be toped off with a comercial built flat bed i scored cheep like new. i will also be using a 93 1ton van 40gal tank in the back as my fuel setup. this will fit between the frame rails.

this will be my beater dd truck with full redneck status. will be reciving napa mud flaps and other stuff as to add to the redneck theme.


any and all usefull info will be added and would also be welcom to be posted for me and others to use in are quest to further the sport and have fun. thanks for the great site and good day.

 

[originalspanksta]

looks good! I should have taken thebody off of mine.....

 

[Wicked Wolf Auto]

looks good so far keep us updated

 

[sweetk30]

updated info. i have decided to change front springs for better position of the front axle. i will be using 56" springs. this will allow me to move the front crossmeber to the other position and in turn will move the axle forward a few inches. this will be cheeper and easyer for me than zero rates and give me more than the 1.5 max of a zero rate. will post part# of springs and pics this weekend. thanks to all who have looked.

 

[sweetk30]

spun the front bracket around. and installed the new springs 56" rears for 73-87 style trucks. part # 22-547 with overload and 2 others taken out. i will mostlikly need to swap the shackles around from the rear ones to the front ones. all of this will be found out after motor and tranny are in.

 

[sweetk30]

got a 2" body lift in the cab also thanks to a member who was real nice and provided it cheep for me . then i just couldnt wait to see the 38x12.5x16.5 tsl swampers on it .

 

[K5MONSTERCHEV]

Lookin good. Makes me wanna do another SAS. Are there any major frame differences in the 2 and 4 wds except for the coil pockets?

 

[sweetk30]

i will most likly chop out most of the 2x4 crossmember. will hit if i dont. and that is about it .

 

[divorced]

Nice body lift! Your truck looks like it's coming along pretty good. I've been thinking about a SAS on my '95 C1500 (I scrapped my K20 and have plenty of parts), and I have some questions for you if you have a few minutes to answer them.



What is the measurement between the red lines in the pic below?

What year/model truck did you get your front spring shackle hangers from?

Do they set the springs on exact centers?

What's the plan for steering? Can you get a drag link from the factory steering box to a crossover steering arm?

Does the cast/camber appear to be close to factory specs?

Thanks for any help

 

[divorced]

Just a little pic whoring - Here's what I may convert:

 

[sweetk30]

front crossmember info : 2.5x2.5x3/16 thick square tube 34 1/4" long. 1/4 plate tabs on ends to cap off and make outer tab for springs. then 3x3x1/4 thick angle cut to 2.5" wide and welded to tube for inner tabs. from top of member to center of hole for spring eye is 4.5" . and the spacing for the spring eye is 3" for the bushing to fit in. the same angle 3x3x1/4 thick is used for other tabs also. this is all hanging off the vary front of the frame. 2 5/8 bolts per side down threw the factory tow hook holes. 1 nut is welded in to the tube on each side and 1 hole on each side threw the angle iron tab.

this all supports the 56" rear 73-87 1ton springs stock. i removed the overload and the #5,7 leafs from each pack. i think i will need to change the stock style shackles out for the longer ones i have in the rear. the reason for 56" over 52" is the center of the axle is to far back to the cab with 52" springs. with the 56" springs i can move the hanger forward more and get the same placement of the rear hanger.

as for steering i will use a ord crossover with high steer kit. thay said the pitman arm will fit the stock box. just need to measure for drag link length.

 

[sweetk30]

just some pics of the size of the lift with 2" body in cab and 38" tires. all of this to a stock 2x4 crew cab with 265/75/16 tires.

 

[originalspanksta]

i think you can use a pitman arm from a 1/2 ton dodge 4x4 from 94 -02 as well and the length and drop is about right. ( i think i read that somewhere, pirate maybe....)

looks good. dont bother replying to my PM cause you answered my question in your post.

 

[sweetk30]

i have the complet ord crossover kit for the dana 60. it has the correct arm. . thanks.

 

[sweetk30]

more pics of the work from today.