84gmcjimmy
1 ton status
Oh so it must be a spot that with trucks with more options than me used the space?
CK5
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New TOY (pun intended) !!
- Thread starter 84gmcjimmy
- Start date
K5Steve
1/2 ton status
Maybe the sr5's had switches there.
I am sticking in a tpi 350 in my 87 4runner next time I put in a new engine.I was going to do it this time but didn't have the time.
I am sticking in a tpi 350 in my 87 4runner next time I put in a new engine.I was going to do it this time but didn't have the time.
84gmcjimmy
1 ton status
K5Steve said:
ones for the power antenna and I forget what the right one is.
Okay, another question. When do I use the clutch button? The P.O. said they use it whenever it wont start, and the manual says only in bad situations...
no luck with that 86 FSM yet either...
Right side is for the reasonably rare digital clock.
Left side is where I've seen the power tailgate window switch in 4runner's. Cargo light switch on both of my trucks is on the other side of the steering column down low.
Left side is where I've seen the power tailgate window switch in 4runner's. Cargo light switch on both of my trucks is on the other side of the steering column down low.
K5Steve
1/2 ton status
It's good for if your neutral saftey switch goes out.
84gmcjimmy
1 ton status
ntsqd said:
Alright those are what I forgot about. Thanks
Looked through the little booklet the truck came with. Is this engine (22re) also known as the 22re-c? What does that mean? Thats what the booklet calls it...
84gmcjimmy
1 ton status
84gmcjimmy said:
anyone answer it?
K5Steve
1/2 ton status
22r-carb,22re-c-efi-22ret-turbo
-broke-
Newbie
if you are talking about the choke button you should only have to use it when its cold out
84gmcjimmy said:
20R's are dual row timing chains. I think some of the early 22R's are as well, but I can't say so for sure. I have both a tall deck and a short deck 22R (early and late versions respectively) and both are single row. Reportedly the double row lasts longer and doesn't stretch as fast.
The Neutral Safety override switch is so that you can start in gear w/o having to push the clutch pedal. Use it when off road in spots where you don't want to roll backwards.
84gmcjimmy
1 ton status
so if I can afford it, the dual row would be better since it lasts longer like you siad?
Thanks
Thanks
84gmcjimmy said:
i may be jumping in late, but the dual row chain is not needed. the real problem is the plastic timing chain guides. upgrade to steel guides and you'll be just fine.
by the way the timing chain in my old 91 made it 145k before it was replaced, not because anything went wrong, but because it blew a head gasket, and i thought it was time.
the second chain is prob still on the truck, had 333k on it when i sold it. upgraded chain guides is the way to go.
ryan
K5Steve
1/2 ton status
Correct,the stock guides are plastic and wear fairley fast,good for plastic but...I would get the metal guides also,much stronger.
Those guides come in the LC Engrg kits.
FWIW the cam drive stuff has an approximate life of 125k miles and one place I know of says 50k max. I know there are those that have gone longer. Depends on how you drive. Compression braking works those parts hard.
The downside to limping one along is that once the guides are broken (a 'when', not an 'if' w/ the plastic guides) the chain next hits the timing cover. Right where the coolant from the H2O pump passes thru to the block. when it eventually grinds thru you'll have a much bigger problem.
FWIW the cam drive stuff has an approximate life of 125k miles and one place I know of says 50k max. I know there are those that have gone longer. Depends on how you drive. Compression braking works those parts hard.
The downside to limping one along is that once the guides are broken (a 'when', not an 'if' w/ the plastic guides) the chain next hits the timing cover. Right where the coolant from the H2O pump passes thru to the block. when it eventually grinds thru you'll have a much bigger problem.
84gmcjimmy
1 ton status
So the LCengineering kit would be best since the guides are not plastic? And I only need single row?
Sounds good. It's not driving right now, the ford stole it's lisence until we sell the ford. So once I get it insured, I will hopefulyl get some money to buy the kit.
Thanks. Anything else should be repaired?
Sounds good. It's not driving right now, the ford stole it's lisence until we sell the ford. So once I get it insured, I will hopefulyl get some money to buy the kit.
Thanks. Anything else should be repaired?
84gmcjimmy
1 ton status
84gmcjimmy
1 ton status
matto
Registered Member
3000$ !!!!!
dude, you got ripped off. not to be an ass or anything. but my friend just got a 1994 toyota pick up with not rot, fuel injected 4 banger, five speed, and locking hubs for 300 bucks, the fiberglass on the bed is craking a bit but that is it. i think that 3000 is way to much for that truck.
dude, you got ripped off. not to be an ass or anything. but my friend just got a 1994 toyota pick up with not rot, fuel injected 4 banger, five speed, and locking hubs for 300 bucks, the fiberglass on the bed is craking a bit but that is it. i think that 3000 is way to much for that truck.
beater_k20
Banned
matto said:dude, you got ripped off. not to be an ass or anything. but my friend just got a 1994 toyota pick up with not rot, fuel injected 4 banger, five speed, and locking hubs for 300 bucks, the fiberglass on the bed is craking a bit but that is it. i think that 3000 is way to much for that truck.
he's in Canada, his dollar doesnt go as far as yours does.
BTW, Steve, skip that timing chain set. it has plastic guides, which were mentioned to be the weak link earlier. unless its SUPER cheap...
