Yup that stuff. Merchant had the best price when I looked. Needs about 2 gallons per change. Don't forget to wipe and reinstall the magnet in the filter.
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
noJeeps 2001 duramax Frank - new headlights
- Thread starter noJeepshere
- Start date
Is all that oil under it from the aftermarket junk leaking? I would delete kit all that crap!
A lot of it is, but I think the oil filter has been on there so long the seal dried up, because most of the leak is from that.
Just fyi, Valvoline Maxlife is tes295 cert and less than 1/2 the cost of transend.....
The cost of deferred maintenance...
That's 10 quarts of cheap oil for the oil flush, 10 quarts of good oil, balljoints, fuel sending unit, diff fluids, transmission fluid, transfer case oil (and seals) and coolant.
That's 10 quarts of cheap oil for the oil flush, 10 quarts of good oil, balljoints, fuel sending unit, diff fluids, transmission fluid, transfer case oil (and seals) and coolant.
Should be able to do for 1/2 that.
How?
Forgot to mention there's also 4 new Bilstein shocks in that order, the original ones to the truck are beyond shot.
Ok $400 in shocks explains the higher price. 250 in fluids, 150 for balljoints, 75 for coolant, 100 in seals, filters, ect. Plus a sending unit just didn't add up.
Also, a stack of these.
Should run like a brand new truck after this week...
Btw, you will love those factory style Bilsteins. We put a set on my wife's Tahoe, and they are great!!!
I was sold on Bilstein's about 10 minutes into the first drive after installing them on my Yukon.
I took OEM off my brand new truck in '02 and have run the Bilsteins ever since. Great match. The drilled air box is/was a very common mod for more air flow and letting out any water ingested, but tended to dirty filters faster due to changed inlet. Don't use foam, use good AC delco paper filters. Every objective test ever performed has shown no appreciable improvement even with fresh perfect oiling, and reduction in flows otherwise, plus MUCH higher abrasive silicates allowed into the intake, not to mention potential oil fouling of the sensor. Also check each and every quick connect, particularly those on the heater core lines. They get brittle and fail catastrophically with little or no warning. Also, the filter head and short fuel lines connected are both prone to air leaks. They cause hard starts and loss of prime, often with no outer signs of issues. Add in a tuner like my Juice/Attitude and you've got a very nice well rounded truck. The stock stainless exhaust is very good for 100-200 hp, the only real focus would be a free flowing muffler. The restrictive exhaust manifold upgrade and larger pipes only if you really turn it up and/or tow hard (EGT issues), but then you'll need to be looking for an upgraded TC with potential Trans upgrades too. There is also a common issue with (IIRC) the intermediate shaft in the trcase, google can provide specifics. Other than that, I can't think of anything else...
Check the bottom of the driverside boost tube for a rub hole on the very bottom. Aluminum tube gets a hole rubbed in it by the power steering box line.
As far as fuel economy/power mods go, keep it to 50 rwhp increase or less and dont let it shift to 5th under hard power.
Best economy mods I did were, cold air intake (S&B was nice), high flow turbo horn, boost increase valve, free flowing exhaust (I have 5" but 4" is plenty), and a PPE 90hp tune (approx 50 rwhp)
I fried my trans running a 150+ rwhp tune. After the built trans I'm running about 500rwhp and get 18-20 empty if I'm able to keep my foot out of it, while towing I run 400-425rwhp and get 15 or so.
As far as fuel economy/power mods go, keep it to 50 rwhp increase or less and dont let it shift to 5th under hard power.
Best economy mods I did were, cold air intake (S&B was nice), high flow turbo horn, boost increase valve, free flowing exhaust (I have 5" but 4" is plenty), and a PPE 90hp tune (approx 50 rwhp)
I fried my trans running a 150+ rwhp tune. After the built trans I'm running about 500rwhp and get 18-20 empty if I'm able to keep my foot out of it, while towing I run 400-425rwhp and get 15 or so.
Good point, I forgot about defueling upper locked shifts. Juice has a setting for that so it automatically helps protect your trans.
I'm not going to tune it, makes plenty of power for me. And I'll stick with the stock filter element until I can justify a good intake like your S&B that you have on your truck Chris.
Today I got 3 of the 4 ball joints separated from the control arms, but the drivers lower joint is being a stubborn s-o-b... Going to finish that job tomorrow and start draining all the fluids while I wait for my parts to arrive.
Today I got 3 of the 4 ball joints separated from the control arms, but the drivers lower joint is being a stubborn s-o-b... Going to finish that job tomorrow and start draining all the fluids while I wait for my parts to arrive.
Google a lb7 boost increase valve, they around $20. It allows you to make a little more boost. Wont add much power with a stock tune, but will make the engine burn more of the fuel it already is getting. It might already have one. Usually it the first thing someone installs
How much boost do they make stock? Right now it's running 17 lbs at full throttle. And it doesn't blow any black smoke at all, even off the line.
