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noJeeps 2001 duramax Frank - new headlights

Thats stock. 16-19 psi.

20-23 with the valve. At least thats on my 02. Mine never smoked unless climbing a hill while towing. Then just a light haze.
 
Any issues to worry about with the boost increaser? I prefer long term reliability than more power, but if I can get more power without sacrificing reliability, I'll go for it. Especially if it's not expensive.
 
noJeepshere said:
Any issues to worry about with the boost increaser? I prefer long term reliability than more power, but if I can get more power without sacrificing reliability, I'll go for it. Especially if it's not expensive.
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Unless you're Turbo is already on its way out it won't hurt anything. The LB7 turbos will Hold together Until about 35 psi
 
The rest of the motor will handle it too? I'm more worried about head gaskets and the like.
 
noJeepshere said:
The rest of the motor will handle it too? I'm more worried about head gaskets and the like.
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Personally I don’t like adding power to high mileage engines. Plus, LB7 were known for head gaskets and injectors. It ran this long the way it is....
 
noJeepshere said:
The rest of the motor will handle it too? I'm more worried about head gaskets and the like.
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Will handle it with no issues.

Fastereddie said:
Personally I don’t like adding power to high mileage engines. Plus, LB7 were known for head gaskets and injectors. It ran this long the way it is....
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Injectors yes, headgaskets not really. lly's were the big headgasket/overheating ones. Lb7 are usually good to 55+- psi drive pressure before headstuds are needed.

Intake, exhaust, boost valve, and a good 30-40hp tow tune is a good dependable setup for someone who just wants a dd. The problem most people run into is the temptation for MORE POWER is always there. I was happy with mine stock, then I wasn't. First was a 90hp tune, then a 150, now I'm about 250 over stock. Now I want twins and 600rwhp.


I have a problem...........
 
So, I'm not the only one. But no more power upgrades until I get get the ATS converter and trans upgraded.
 
The increased throttle response is what did it for me. Drives way better. Thats about the only thing i would change on my lml is to get rid of the pedal lag.
 
I really don't like that balljoints have to be so stubborn... 45 minutes with the pickle fork on the lower joint and it finally came apart. And I love summit, I ordered my parts kinda late yesterday so I didn't expect them until tomorrow, but the DHL guy swung by this evening just as I popped the last joint out of its socket. Talk about perfect timing!

Got the new joints in and will install the shocks and start getting the fluids changed out tomorrow. Should be driving it by Friday. :pimp:

21501.jpeg
 
I've never needed more than 2-3 wacks with the pickle fork. I have a cheapy air hammer attachment from HF. That speeds up the process but not much. Beating that lower ball joint out with a hammer is the quickest bet. The press just started bending on me. Hopefully you got all new upper arms. For the price why wouldn't you. a ball joint was like 28, and the whole upper arm was 32 on rock auto.
 
ashman said:
My '03 is stock. I tow all over. Never really felt the need for more power.
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My dad has the same comments, but he didn’t find out I had installed a boost valve for several thousand miles.
noJeepshere said:
I've daily driven a stock 350 for 11 years, I think I'll be ok with nearly stock power output from this truck...
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I tend to agree. In practice, 500-550 lb-ft is enough to drag most anything around at a reasonable speed, and feels great as a daily.

I really like how you’re catching up the maintenance and giving the truck what it needs to be a long term runner.

David
 
The idea is I either keep this long enough to need to rebuild the motor, or sell out within a year to pay some bills. As it is, I can still sell it for a bit of profit, as most trucks are still fetching $10-12k around these parts. Either way, someone will have themselves a nice truck.
 
Got it back on its wheels, been on jack stands since Friday. Got the new shocks installed on the front and everything greased and buttoned upD. DecidedI'm going to drive it to work tomorrow so all the fluids are warm when I change them. Drove it to town tonight to get some stuff and the front end is smoooooth. Rides like a new truck! Tomorrow I'll put the rear shocks on then it should be good to go. Gotta say, the front shocks are much easier to swap out when half the suspension is missing.

Starts pretty well.


21512.jpeg
 
noJeepshere said:
Got it back on its wheels, been on jack stands since Friday. Got the new shocks installed on the front and everything greased and buttoned upD. DecidedI'm going to drive it to work tomorrow so all the fluids are warm when I change them. Drove it to town tonight to get some stuff and the front end is smoooooth. Rides like a new truck! Tomorrow I'll put the rear shocks on then it should be good to go. Gotta say, the front shocks are much easier to swap out when half the suspension is missing.

Starts pretty well.


View attachment 279531
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Sounds just like mine! :cool:

Nice shocks! Colby got the same ones for his truck in the summer. I got the yellow version on ours. :waytogo:
 
I love the grumble that comes from the pipe at idle like that, but I do wish it made a bit more noise. Maybe in some future date it will...
 
jekquistk5 said:
Coming from experience unless you have proof the injectors were done recently no one will spend over 9.
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What!? A 9 thousand dollar Duramax? Sign me, up I've been looking for years to buy a Duramax without getting a second mortgage. I guess I need to come look in Michigan because that doesn't seem to exist here. The biggest piles of shit totally rundown, rusty, interior shot, everything is broken still bring 15 grand.

That's said I had no idea you could buy any dmax for 5 grand in any part of the country. More or less this one is CLEAN compared to the huge buckets that go for 12-15 around here.
 
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