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noJeeps 2001 duramax Frank - new headlights

jekquistk5 said:
It could have possibly been overfilled. Just under 2 gallons to fill.
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So sleep is a good thing. That being said, it did actually end up taking 12 quarts to get to the correct level. The guy that did the emissions inspection said the trans was a bit low, so I know it wasn't overfilled.

Anyways, I couldn't figure out for the life of me why it was acting like it was low, even though the dipstick showed overfull. This morning I remembered the engine needs to be running to indicate the correct fluid level...:deal::smirk: got it figured out and life is good again. But only after the trans threw a half dozen codes and went into limp mode, but I cleared them and it's good.
 
How did changing the fuel filter go? like this:

21574.jpeg

This is why regular maintenance is important. What should be a 5 minute job took an hour and required removing the filter adapter so I could get enough leverage to twist the damn thing off.

I've already bombed the previous owner a dozen times over in my head for all the stupidity he displayed with this truck. Some people shouldn't own cars.
 
Grrr...

So in changing out the fuel filter, I used to the primer button and in doing so, caused the o-rings inside to fail because they haven't been used in forever. It'll idle just fine, but as soon as I put any load on it, even just dry revving it in park, and it eventually stalls. So, I ordered a filter head rebuild kit and will do this all over again. I really was looking forward to driving it to my brother's this afternoon...

I had to use low range to back it up my driveway (it's sloped) and parked it in the garage, again. My landlord is starting to get tired of not being able to use his garage...
 
noJeepshere said:
So sleep is a good thing. That being said, it did actually end up taking 12 quarts to get to the correct level. The guy that did the emissions inspection said the trans was a bit low, so I know it wasn't overfilled.

Anyways, I couldn't figure out for the life of me why it was acting like it was low, even though the dipstick showed overfull. This morning I remembered the engine needs to be running to indicate the correct fluid level...:deal::smirk: got it figured out and life is good again. But only after the trans threw a half dozen codes and went into limp mode, but I cleared them and it's good.
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Just like Jesse said, around 7.5litres is all the trans will drain out of the pan. Also check with the trans in neutral “truck running as you know”. The engine takes about 10 litres of oil. Sorry about the PO! You will get it!
 
I won't get the rebuild kit until Wednesday, so it'll be nearly another week before I can drive it...

In the meantime, I'll change the oil out, since the cheap oil showed up, and replace the fuel sending unit. And hopefully the front output seal for the t-case shows up soon, the case was an entire quart low. Then finally I can hose the underside with Gunk then hit the car wash with the undercarriage spray... :grin:
 
The filter heads are bad about going out. Be glad you’re changing it. I advocate buy a whole new assembly but I’m sure you’ll have good results with a rebuild as well.
 
While you have some time, you should check all your soft feed lines. They are notorious for collapsing. The big offenders are behind the driver side valve cover, and at the trans cross-member. They look fine since they have braid on them, but cut the braid off and they are all collapsed. And hopefully you got the rebuild kit, with new aluminum or brass bleed screw.
 
I already stripped the screw slot on the factory one, but the kit I bought has 5 screws and I'll replace it with a brass one as soon as I drum up another $100 worth of order at summit.

I'm going to order a fass lift pump soon and I'll get all new fuel lines at that time.
 
ashman said:
yeah, upgrade that bleeder screw asap. I've broken mine several times and gotten myself stranded. Not fun being stuck because of something so small and clearly poorly made. :angry1:
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It's one of those things you want to whack the engineer that designed it over the head with a bat.

Right now the truck is driveable except for some $0.50 rubber o-rings...
 
PPE makes a tool for it that has a screw driver to keep from stripping the screw and a wrench for the water in fuel sensor, it works well. I think I remember reading somewhere that a brass or aluminum screw was bad, but I can’t remember what the reasoning was and that’s why I stayed with the plastic. :dunno:
 
^^^^^^ditto^^^^^^
I have the aluminum screw, ppe wrench, and the airdog fed with a beans sump. All good stuff. Been very happy with all of it for going on seven years now.
 
Did all I could today. I could change the oil but I want to warm up the engine first and before I can do that I need the filter head rebuild kit. But I did get the new sending unit in and the bed back down. Now I know I have a 2/3 tank of fuel right now, and no more warning lights. Worth the $260 that sending unit was.

21702.jpeg

Also, no sediment or anything else to worry about in the tank, except some nice smelling liquid. I was a bit worried about problems due to old fuel because I don't think this truck got driven much lately, but all is good.

21700.jpeg
 
This damn filter thing is starting to piss me off. If any of you guys have any suggestions, I'm open to them. I'm getting to where I'm about to buy a new filter head and filter and be done with it. Read the video description for more.

 
Are you opening the bleeder screw when you pump it till fuel comes out? Then close it and pump more?
Sometimes I’ve had to do it 3 or so times before I got my airdog.
 
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