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Norcal_Chris 95 Jeep build (Snowball) TH350 gurus

1970worthog said:
:haha:
Click to expand...

:thinking:
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:whistle:
 
You for sure need at least a rear locker. Check out greatlakes4x4.coms classified section I see a bunch of jeep stuff on there. It's local to the Midwest but I can take a look for u and send stuff if needed.
 
You guy's should see what he's planning... :deal:
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Hey, Chris.....
If you add up all the money you saved by DIY'n the whole Blazer.
I'm more than willing to bet, the body protection for the Jeep would be free.

:haha:
 
TheBeast_88K5 said:
You guy's should see what he's planning... :deal:
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Hey, Chris.....
If you add up all the money you saved by DIY'n the whole Blazer.
I'm more than willing to bet, the body protection for the Jeep would be free.

:haha:
Click to expand...

Hahah i have thought of that. Im pretty sure i will cave and purchase the rear corner armor. i dont really want to get a big peice of steel and have to bend it to match the corner, as well as cut the wheel wells out. But we will see what happens lol.

I keep wanting to do stuff to it but i have to wait a little longer.

And it seems i may be keeping this cute little d30 front, going with the one peice shaft in place of the disco and running it.

Also pricing out 3 linking the front using TJ coils and bushings on one end. Called a few people about 8.8s for sale but most want 300ish for em then i gotta reagear anyways, so i may just go to the junkyard and get one for 150 or so.
 
Slapperbar said:
Look up a "posi-lok" for the dana 30. It eliminates the vacuum system all together for that axle.
http://www.4x4posi-lok.com/app_jeep.html

kit900_lg.jpg
Click to expand...

Hrm that looks fairly simple. So i guess the main issue people have with the vacumn disco is the fact that sometimes it doesnt work? Or am i missing something?

It would seem nice to keep it in if i locked the front, since otherwise i would have the locker flipping around up front engauged all the time right?
 
Oh and i picked up a swing away spare tire carrier with hi lift and jerry can mount for FREE.

Pics tommroow it is too dark. But it is cool
 
NorCal_Chris said:
Hrm that looks fairly simple. So i guess the main issue people have with the vacumn disco is the fact that sometimes it doesnt work? Or am i missing something?

It would seem nice to keep it in if i locked the front, since otherwise i would have the locker flipping around up front engauged all the time right?
Click to expand...

It was part of Dodge's temporary love with front axle disengagement, after a while they ditched it and went to full time front ends for the TJ's and newer (not full time 4WD but non-selectable unit bearing hubs).

On my brother's old YJ we locked it out by locking the collar to the one side with wire IIRC, that was the fix for that. With a mechanical locker (like the Aussie), full time hubs are fine for the most part. In very low traction situations (snow/ice) the front end will stay locked even in 2WD, otherwise it's pretty transparent.

'95 should be the first year of the bigger 760X joint (D44 sized), if for whatever reason you have the smaller ones just plan on getting aftermarket shafts for the bigger joints. The early YJ D30 joints are literally 1310 sized, and after the ring and pinion reduction are 3-4+ times weaker!
 
NorCal_Chris said:
Hrm that looks fairly simple. So i guess the main issue people have with the vacumn disco is the fact that sometimes it doesnt work? Or am i missing something?

It would seem nice to keep it in if i locked the front, since otherwise i would have the locker flipping around up front engauged all the time right?
Click to expand...

When I referred earlier to breaking a front steering u-joint, it was nice to be able to unlock the front end with the Posi Lok. The same kind of thought went into my drivetrain swap, in which I put in drivetrain out of a 2000 Blazer with a 5 speed and a manual shift t-case (a tough combo to find as most Blazers with a 4.3 had an electronic shift t-case). I like not having to rely on an electric switch (t-case) and vacuum lines (front axle). Obviously things can still go wrong, but with the posi lok it's also nice to be able to unlock the front end at will (I should have done that before busted my u-joint). You effectively get a 2-low, which is nice to carry you over a lot of trails when you're relying more on low gearing than four wheel drive. As far as front end swaps, if you want to go that far with your build, the FSJ front end D44 is an really easy one. But like everyone has said, anything you do to the rear D35 is like polishing a turd...it's just gonna smear. That's where the super simple Explorer 8.8 comes in.

Since the TJ, the YJ has really been denigrated, but I am still a fan of what it can do for a really reasonable amount of money and mods.
 
Just remembered something. The YJ should have the NP231 t-case right? Most of the older (square body) manual shift S10 t-cases were NP231HD cases. They had a stronger planetary gear reduction case (5 planets instead of 3) and a wider, heavier duty chain and gears. It's a pretty easy upgrade IIRC.
 
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