Kain
3/4 ton status
replace that timing chain, thats toast
CK5
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Not a Fitech-Now a Sniper 2 and boat anchor
- Thread starter Hosalabad
- Start date
Yes and they're cheap
stock chain with plastic gears . also called a silent chain in that style or chain . they stretch out in under 5k miles .
GET a roller chain .
and yep fuel pump has to be pulled. . .
make sure break in oil . . . and additive for later use . or the new cam will be gone in no time.
GET a roller chain .
and yep fuel pump has to be pulled. . .
make sure break in oil . . . and additive for later use . or the new cam will be gone in no time.
Pfft. Run it until the chain slides over the nubs. You'll know when it's really done, it will start and immediately die, and the timing will be off. Everytime. lol
Zinc additive is helpful for long cam life 
Or just do a roller cam retrofit 
that's what I am doing . . .Or just do a roller cam retrofit
I had poked around on this, but wasn't clear whether or not block machining would be required. I have already ordered replacements, right now I just want to get it running and keep my eyes out for a 350/700r4 combo.Or just do a roller cam retrofit
Alright, I finally finished a cam swap. And for fun when I primed the fuel system there was a break in the hard line coming out of the mechanical pump. I also added a Windstar conversion and holy shit that thing kicks my alternator's ass. I was driving around on 11.60 volts yesterday. Without fans, headlights and radio it wil come back up to 12.5+
Today's order of business is a cooler thermostat, I think FiTech wants 170, but I need to recheck documentation. Then I need to confirm my alternator output and either go Big 3 or get a bigger alternator or both. I already put in a big wire from battery to starter and engine and chassis grounds, so I would just be looking at the alt output wire next.
Today's order of business is a cooler thermostat, I think FiTech wants 170, but I need to recheck documentation. Then I need to confirm my alternator output and either go Big 3 or get a bigger alternator or both. I already put in a big wire from battery to starter and engine and chassis grounds, so I would just be looking at the alt output wire next.
Just read the whole thread. Interesting on the FI tech install. If anything it looks like you are getting a pretty good education. So is all the popping and BS stopped and the injection system running good?
Yes it runs a lot better. I get a little pop if I open the throttle up a second time as it is revving down from higher rpm, but that's a tuning thing. I need to get deep into the tuning now.
ekajkrats
1/2 ton status
Fitech begins learning at 170, so you need your temp to get above that.
Ahh so 170 is where it enters closed loop, right?
If it's like the Holley Sniper, it will enter closed loop as soon as the oxygen sensor is heated but no learning until 160°, or in your case 170°.
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yes. Let her warm up before you go messing with it.
I'm wiring up a CS144 140A alternator tonight but I really can't decide how to introduce the new power into the system. All of the new electrical load comes off a Blue Sea fuse box that is running off of a circuit breaker that is connected to the battery.
Should I just run from Alt output to Battery? Or attempt to follow the factory flow of current from the Alternator, to the firewall and down to the starter?
Should I just run from Alt output to Battery? Or attempt to follow the factory flow of current from the Alternator, to the firewall and down to the starter?
I run to the battery when I do an upgrade like that. My '90 K5 and the '95 K2500 are that way from the factory.
I ran the CS144 to the battery with some leftover knukonceptz 4 gauge. Holy shit THE POWAAAAAAHH!
Like the other threads, CS 144 from a '92 Pontiac Trans Sport.
So volts are licked.
This week I started looking into the absolute lack of power above 2k rpms.
I put the vacuum gun on the distributor advance. It sucks down then leaks out.
Next, I put a vacuum gauge on the Fitech port for ported vacuum for distributors. Figure 5 below. It starts to get vacuum at 2k rpms and increases to a max by I think 2500 or 2750. Right where mine is laying down.
I'm going to replace it and move on. If it was holding any vacuum I'd adjust it and play it with but since it is leaking I think it warrants a replacement.
I think my PCV is shot too, the inside of the TBI is coated in oil. I'm going to grab a new one while I'm at the store.
Like the other threads, CS 144 from a '92 Pontiac Trans Sport.
So volts are licked.
This week I started looking into the absolute lack of power above 2k rpms.
I put the vacuum gun on the distributor advance. It sucks down then leaks out.
Next, I put a vacuum gauge on the Fitech port for ported vacuum for distributors. Figure 5 below. It starts to get vacuum at 2k rpms and increases to a max by I think 2500 or 2750. Right where mine is laying down.
I'm going to replace it and move on. If it was holding any vacuum I'd adjust it and play it with but since it is leaking I think it warrants a replacement.
I think my PCV is shot too, the inside of the TBI is coated in oil. I'm going to grab a new one while I'm at the store.
if i recall ported vac is for emissions type setups .
maybe try full vac port and drive it .
i see your running a spacer under the unit . make sure there is no leaks .
maybe try full vac port and drive it .
i see your running a spacer under the unit . make sure there is no leaks .
