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Not a Fitech-Now a Sniper 2 and boat anchor

Whipped out a limit strap for my tire carrier last night. Just a strip of 1-1/4" with a 3/8" slot in it. Can't get the action shot uploaded due to file size. I'll hang it on youtube in a bit.

IMG_0668.JPG IMG_0669.JPG IMG_0670.JPG ..
 
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Tonight I blew a few hours on trying to install a double groove alternator pulley. So far I just can't make it work and thanks to Photobucket, half of the internet is useless. It's like I get the alignment close and the CS144 is rubbing the valve cover, or just totally misaligned. A Home Depot turnbuckle is starting to look like a good idea.

Edit: Ordering a Spectre long water pump alt bracket. Between that, a vise, and a BFH I should be set.
 
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Alright, shit is getting real now. I am going to Uwharrie on Wednesday. I'm meeting my homeboy from Virginia. He picked up a JKU last year and in October we threw some wrenches at it and put on a Jeep starter kit: lift, bumpers, winch.

Here's the double belt pulley: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g3949b

There is just no way to get this to work with a CS144 and the stock brackets. The main issue is that to slide the alternator rearwards enough to get the belts to align, you run into the valve covers.

The solution is a hideous chrome bracket from Spectre. I assume this is made for some kind of metric bolt, because a 3/8 bolt doesn't slide through the entire width of the groove. I file fit for 3/8" because Metrics is for Commies.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/spe-42263

In order to get it to work, I had to space it out some on the water pump, and fiddle fit it with the lower bolt that goes into the head. The stock bolt bent the first time I tried to tighten the belt. I replaced it with a trimmed down 6" grade 8. I took off, I think about 3/8" A 5.5 would work a lot better, but on a weekend I'm dealing with Lowe's being the best place to buy fasteners. At 6" I have to spacer in front of the bolt head to push the alternator back to line it up with the crank/water pump, but then the bolt is scary close to the inside belt.

Here's how it wound up:
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I barely needed the full range of adjustment with the bracket. I wound up with a 50" belt with the bracket on the same bolt hole of the water pump that the factory bracket uses. It becomes an issue there spacing the bracket out and being able to install a bolt without having to remove the pulley for it to thread in.

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I think I'm going to pull the wires off and loop them under the heater hose. Fan engagement didn't lead to any squeal, and FiTech was reporting fantastic voltage, 13.9 (fans on) up to the 14.4.

I had tried the two temp switch from BMW, but I think my temp sensor is dead. For now, I have Fan 1 to Fitech's turn on, and Fan 2 will be manual.

I found a thread on Facebook in a FiTech group that the vacuum fitting on the FCC is just for boost reference. The presence of vacuum would cause the regulator to reduce fuel pressure. I don't think it was hurting but I'd rather stick to best practice. Sure enough when I checked the manual they were right, so I pulled that hose off. RTFM folks, then do it again. And drink less bourbon when you work on your truck.

After that it was reinstalling the inner fenders and bolting down the console (and a cup holder). Then I dropped dead in the shop and called it a day.
 
I also looked at the battery when I was putting the power cable on the alternator and said to myself, "Ok the negatives are on, don't ground the wrench." Then I grounded it anyways. -1 for me.
 
File this under better lucky than good. I took the missus out this morning for breakfast and a big box hardware run. The truck would start after we ate. It wouldn't even crank. Ok must be solenoid. Lacking tools I crawled under to take a look. Hrm Is that a crack?


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The copper tab from the solenoid to the motor was about burned through too.

Truck started 5 minuets later with no issue. Picked up a new starter.
 
And the replacement starter is off by a mile. Looks like I have a car flexplate The old starter uses a long and short bolt, the truck starter I picked up uses two long bolts staggered and the gear is a mile away from the teeth.
Learn something new every day I guess. Off to the store.
 
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Just got to Albemarle. Just ran into two other guys from Georgia. Turns out I'm here just in time for https://www.facebook.com/36Uwharrie/ which hopefully won't wreck my trip.

240 miles today, I got gas halfway and the math came out to 9.6 mpg. Not bad for being above 2500 rpms the whole time. I see an OD trans in my future.
 
Uwharrie Day 1:

Look, my truck isn't in my shop or on pavement! Holy shit. Today we ran Wolf Den, Slab Pile, Rocky Mtn Loop, and Sawmill. This is where I was stuck for a few minutes because I heat soaked my Fuel Command Center. I had stopped the motor while we got the Jeep through a rocky section that was a challenge with the manual trans. Parking it hot just warms the FCC up from everything in the engine bay. For the other times in the day I keyed off, I'd just open the hood, or run both fans until the coolant temp bottomed out before I shut it off.

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Trail dogs are the best:
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We had a good time. Here we are at the end of the day before heading for town.


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A little rocky section in Uwharrie. Rocky Mountain Loop. Complete with us walking around looking like dorks.


 
I guess this was Dickie Bell trail, one of them has a big rocky climb:
 
This week I pulled the FCC to convert it to return style.

I took the truck out and got it good and hot and cut it off. It then failed to start with P0335 which is RPM Noise. Could be regular interference or something like a burned plug wire ground out and causing noise. A little AAA fixes everything.

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No idea yet if the FCC mods helped. It has started twice at home with no issue, so the P0335 is my favorite kind of problem, intermittent!


Here is part of the mod:


I also cut down the needle and removed it.
 
had this problem the blue wire from fitech was the cause of mine, moved i going to shield it and put it back.
how is the 02 sensor wire ran in yours?
 
skunked said:
your running stock HEI right?
Click to expand...
Yes stock HEI

Kain said:
had this problem the blue wire from fitech was the cause of mine, moved i going to shield it and put it back.
how is the 02 sensor wire ran in yours?
Click to expand...

Mine runs between the front of the TBI 90 to the driver's side and over the valve cover straight to the manifold. I'm using the factory hole from whatever car this engine came from.

I'm going to try to get out there and go to town on the wiring this weekend. It amazes me that this wire is so sensitive to EMI, and they don't use a shielded solution. I'll grab a pic tonight.
 
and ya it sucks that it is but roll with it.
i am going to pm a link for the stuff i am getting, you can use aluminum tin foil tape but this stuff is also fiberglass insulated so heat resistance.plus i amd going to wrap it in a sleeve material as well
 
likely that rpm signal wire picking up some noise.....it's the spark plug wires that need to stay away from that wire FYI
 
yep thats what did it for mine thats why im wrapping it, i have read people using 1/4 hose to wrap the wire to keep out the noise but dont know how effective it is.
 
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