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Not a Fitech-Now a Sniper 2 and boat anchor

I rewired under the hood some this weekend. I re-routed a few plug wires so they are all behind and above the intake with #2 and #3 running around the back of the distributor instead of in front. I move the whole stack of wires that runs down the firewall to the passenger valvecover valley and u-turns downward to go to the starter and tied the off in a conduit by the evap box. I then moved the fitech wires to the little valley between the passenger valve cover and the intake and ran the tach wire under the spark plugs and around the distributor to the connection. Still starts cold fine, but shows RPM noise when hot and won't restart. It's crazy that I drove 600 miles to NC and back with no issue. I got wrapped up in all of this and really forgot to take a look at the spark plug wires to make sure none of them had burned, though.

I need to find a car show and start looking under hoods so I can see how people hide all their wiring.
 
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I also ordered some stainless braided sleeving that came in today.

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people have been wrapping the blue wire by itself,if thats your tach signal.
have to isolate it. check your rotor and see if it looks ok and is making contact to the cap. they can make it have rpm noise too
 
I'll double check the cap, it's a brand new distributor and I don't think I opened it before I installed it.

I made it out to the shop for a bit today. I sleeved the tach wire and grounded the Fitech body to the battery. I used 3/8ths, I bought some 1/8th but it was really too small to try to thread the tach wire through. I have some 1/2 also and you could put 6-7 14 gauge wires in it.

Then I checked the plug wires:
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#7 was a bit roasted. I replaced it with a straight boot. The driver side shields fell apart on me the first time I took the manifolds off. Might be room for improvement there.

I ran the motor until Fitech reported coolant at 205 (fans bypassed to get it hot) and shut it down to let it soak under hood. After about 5 minutes I started cranking it and shutting it off, no codes and no problems starting so far. Hopefully I can take it out after dinner for a road test.
 
Test drive was successful, at least as close as I could be for 70 something degree weather. I'll belive this is all under control with FCC and rpm noise the next time it's in the 90s.

Thanks @Fastereddie I'll hang on to those wires if (when) I burn another one.
 
glad you got it figured out, chased a problem on mine for about two weeks turned out i had leak at header and system was picking it up.still waiting on shielding stuff
 
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Put these on my super inferno spontanious combustion BBC with headers and they work....

I picked up a set of these this week and got them on yesterday. I had one more burned wire on cyl 5. All of the shielding on the manifolds broke off when I took the heads off so it wasn't much of a surprise to keep finding them.
These ceramic boots are pretty, now it's like lipstick on a pig.
 
you still having noise from your system?
I think I was, sometimes it spikes a little during cranking. It isn't logging RPM noise, so I don't know if it is just not reaching a severity threshold. I plan to data log on the next trip out of the shop so I can verify.
 
i took out the msd box, it was s bad when i got noise it would run for 20 miles and shut off.
took out msd havent had a problem since.
 
I've had nothing but problems with MSD boxes as well. I wouldn't trust them as far as I could throw them.
 
after doing some digging there are a lot of issues with them, holley bought them out...........
 
Awesome, I folded up my hood this week. I was pulling it down from off center and it folded about a foot from the hinge on the driver's side.

Truck running like shit on the new plug wires too. I'm totally kicking ass this week.

What's the interchange on hoods? Does a full convertible hood match everything else that's square?
 
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Keep the hinges lubed and pull them down from the side - near the hinges.
Yeah gonna have to check the hinges. When I replace the hood I guess.

In other news, when youtube says you can use pliers to crimp spark plug wires, they aren't exactly correct. I laid off because I didn't want to damage the wire, but the crimps were so loose that the spark was trashy. I drove the truck about 500 feet and noped out of that and parked it.

I picked up some actual plug wire crimpers, and man what a difference. The crimp curls the edges of the plug in over the sheath so they are super tight. Problem solved. Hopefully they will do a good job on regular wire too, as they are spendy and came with three die sets.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/acc-170036
 
I got some similar from MSD, just the dies because I already had the tool. Anyway, I love them. It's so nice to make spark plug wires that are the proper length for the application.
 

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