Every thing for that yes.
If the 700r4 is leaking out at the tcase you need the square oring that goes on the tail of the transmission
CK5
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NP208 Transfer Case Causing Vibration?
- Thread starter PaulZ
- Start date
If the 700r4 is leaking out at the tcase you need the square oring that goes on the tail of the transmission
Thanks! That square o ring goes between the adapter and the trans and stops from leaking out onto the ground? I don't think it's leaking there, I have never taken the adapter off. I think I buggered up the input seal on the tc when I put it in. Tough bench pressing that thing into place for this old fart. Thinking of making a wood cradle to fit the two pad motorcycle lift thing I have. Anyone posted something like that?
No pictures but plenty have used those motorcycle and atv lifts
Going to put my TC back in in a little while. Is it better to screw the adapter to the 700r4 first or to the TC? My plan is to put a stud in one of the threaded holes and slide the case onto it. Hmm, maybe the two top holes in the trans?
You can only do the adapter on the transmission first. The bolts go on the inside
The adapter to my 700R4 has the bolt on outside, both to trans and transfer case.
Argh! Now my TC is leaking between the two case halves. Looks like someone beat a chisel in by the passenger side lug at the bottom, unless it's supposed to look like that. I'm not pulling it out again! Can the back half come off in the truck? Can it slide apart enough to clean it and get some sealer in there?
I pulled my 241 three times to get it to seal, same deal, from the case halves. Tried the very thin coating of RTV trick, then thick coating of RTV, finally bought anaerobic sealant and "primer", which seemed to work. Of course, now the input shaft seal is leaking, so it will be at least four removals.
Thanks. What is the stock sealing method for the case halves? My gasket kit didn't come with a gasket. I am loathe to pull it again but it's leaving a coffee can size puddle every time I park it. Maybe I'll try draining it, hooking a shop vac to the breather line, spray some brake clean then some thin sealer and see if it will pull it in. Or maybe just JB weld the dam thing together!
I know a guy who J-B Welded the cylinder head on his Ford Escort to the block,it had a head gasket leak there,and he couldn't afford to have it replaced..(car was not worth it,really)...it only lost coolant,a small puddle overnight,none was getting in the crankcase or coming out the exhaust..it just weeped out of the head gasket..
So he used a wire brush on a Dremel tool to shine up both parts good,drained out some coolant,sprayed it off good with brake cleaner,and applied the J-B Weld thickly over the seam and the head and block,let it dry a day before starting it up and refilling it with coolant..thing lasted another year until he was able to buy a better car..
You might be able to use Permatex "Right Stuff" without completely pulling the T-case off,that stuff once it sets is almost as good as glue,I have seen rear diff covers get bent when a mechanic tried prying it loose after that stuff was used instead of a gasket before,it held so good!..seen it used like bondo on rotted out oil pans on Ford 7.3's with success too..
So he used a wire brush on a Dremel tool to shine up both parts good,drained out some coolant,sprayed it off good with brake cleaner,and applied the J-B Weld thickly over the seam and the head and block,let it dry a day before starting it up and refilling it with coolant..thing lasted another year until he was able to buy a better car..
You might be able to use Permatex "Right Stuff" without completely pulling the T-case off,that stuff once it sets is almost as good as glue,I have seen rear diff covers get bent when a mechanic tried prying it loose after that stuff was used instead of a gasket before,it held so good!..seen it used like bondo on rotted out oil pans on Ford 7.3's with success too..
The Right Stuff Grey works great,
I'd say unbolting it and applying it to the surfaces would give the best chance of success..but maybe its worth a shot just coating the outside with it,and see if it holds..getting it completely clean of any ATF or oil is imperative ..
Probably,but it'll have to be supported by a jack and the linkages will have to be removed ,there should be enough spline in the slip yoke to let it move back without taking off the drive shaft,it only needs to come back 1/2" or so ..the truss rod will have to be unbolted too..
The surface needs to be clean and dry to work properly.
Here's a photo, is that slot a factory 'pry here' thing? Leaking right around there and up a bit. The TC mount and linkage is ahead of the rear half, looks like you could just pull the arm and bolts out some and slide it back. I'm just afraid some pin or gear will fall off inside..
https://imgur.com/2IyAcTo
https://imgur.com/2IyAcTo
Factory pry point. I think you would be better served by remove it to work on it. The rear housing and snap ring will have to be remove to split the case. Then there is always the oil pump and pick that has to come apart.
