CK5
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NP208 Transfer Case Causing Vibration?
- Thread starter PaulZ
- Start date
Hmm, well that's cool, thanks! Looked the same to me, I guess it's a bolt in swap for the 208. There's usually 2-3 square bodies at the PnP these days, this was the only 4x4 there yesterday. Someone had already bagged both drive shafts, maybe they planned to come back for the t case. Thinking about going back for the axles, $75 each this weekend.
Might go ahead and throw this T case in when I put in new mounts now that I know it's pretty easy.
Might go ahead and throw this T case in when I put in new mounts now that I know it's pretty easy.
Yes it is or GM wouldn't have wasted the money. Nice fine on the Unicorn 241
OK, hope it clears my headers. I was surprised to see it only attaches to one bell housing bolt. Must work under tension or compression but I don't see how it would flex that way.
Its a brace,that makes a "triangle" of sorts,it helps keep the T-case from drooping and putting too much stress on the transmission tail shaft bolts where the adapter bolts to it..
Exactly.
To twist or pull away the tcase has to make the distance longer meaning stretching the rod
OK that makes sense. Not much of a triangle though. Hey while I have your ears, I grabbed the glove box out of that Suburban yesterday because my hinge is mostly duct tape, but it has a dent in the door. I need to separate the box and doors but the lock has to come out, can I get that out without a key?
I want to say you can, but I will be at my suburban in half an hour and I will check
700 r4 is 27 spline, 400 is 32 spline, manuals are 32 ??
Good news, the 241 is in, I'm off to my cabin, assuming I can still turn the steering wheel after bench pressing that thing in by myself (I'm 60). Even better news, my vibration is gone! There may have been a couple of reasons:
I think I mentioned that when I bought my non-running K5, the transfer case took at least a quart, maybe two can't remember to top up. Maybe that toasted a bearing, though it was always quiet whine wise and worked perfectly. Up and down play of the driveshaft yoke was only slight, no worse than the 241.
Secondly, whoever put this together before apparently didn't have all the right bolts, the top two bolts holding the transfer case to the trans were 3/8" US, and just about finger tight. The bottoms were the proper metric and tight. Also there was no torque rod.
The 241 and strut rod went right in except the cross member mount is different, I had to make a spacer out of 2x4 box steel to use my old cross member and mount. Perhaps the cross member out of the donor Suburban would work? Other than that no difference.
So it looks like I'm good to go. Thanks all for the help!
I think I mentioned that when I bought my non-running K5, the transfer case took at least a quart, maybe two can't remember to top up. Maybe that toasted a bearing, though it was always quiet whine wise and worked perfectly. Up and down play of the driveshaft yoke was only slight, no worse than the 241.
Secondly, whoever put this together before apparently didn't have all the right bolts, the top two bolts holding the transfer case to the trans were 3/8" US, and just about finger tight. The bottoms were the proper metric and tight. Also there was no torque rod.
The 241 and strut rod went right in except the cross member mount is different, I had to make a spacer out of 2x4 box steel to use my old cross member and mount. Perhaps the cross member out of the donor Suburban would work? Other than that no difference.
So it looks like I'm good to go. Thanks all for the help!
If that crossmember from the burb is still, i'd grab it...
If not, just keep an eye on your homemade spacer, many guys run similar spacers to make everything line up without any additional problems...
If not, just keep an eye on your homemade spacer, many guys run similar spacers to make everything line up without any additional problems...
Just to add to the torque rod info...
Ever try to compress and extend the front driveshaft quickly? Like really fast, over and over again.
Yeah, that's what it's doing while you drive, the whole time.
And it's constantly trying to push and pull the T-case with it.
The rod just helps hold the case front to rear, not side to side or up and down. Because the 4wd output is away from the mounting, it's got some leverage over the bolts.....and being aluminum and all....
Unless you're talking about the dust cover rods, then well, yeah, that's just to add strength between the engine mounts and trans mount.
As long as everything fits with the crossmember, like exhaust and front drive shaft, then I'd run it. Is it the flatter style crossmember? The suburban probably had the "W" crossmember. All those things affect the style of adapter you use, tall VS. short. Sounds like you are using the adapter with short feet AND the flatter crossmember. I've seen all these parts but haven't owned enough trucks to see them all in configuration, so it's just a guess.
Ever try to compress and extend the front driveshaft quickly? Like really fast, over and over again.
Yeah, that's what it's doing while you drive, the whole time.
And it's constantly trying to push and pull the T-case with it.
The rod just helps hold the case front to rear, not side to side or up and down. Because the 4wd output is away from the mounting, it's got some leverage over the bolts.....and being aluminum and all....
Unless you're talking about the dust cover rods, then well, yeah, that's just to add strength between the engine mounts and trans mount.
As long as everything fits with the crossmember, like exhaust and front drive shaft, then I'd run it. Is it the flatter style crossmember? The suburban probably had the "W" crossmember. All those things affect the style of adapter you use, tall VS. short. Sounds like you are using the adapter with short feet AND the flatter crossmember. I've seen all these parts but haven't owned enough trucks to see them all in configuration, so it's just a guess.
Yes my cross member is flat, the 208 has a long mounting flange hanging down. The '89 Suburban had the W shaped cross member to meet the shorter 241 flange. I left it, didn't even have to pull it and didn't think about needing it.
My 208 is worth $15 core and the cross member is $30 if I go back. I suppose the 208 is worth more to someone else but I'll grab the cross member if it's still there and looks like it fits my frame.
I had to guess on how high to make my spacer, it's about 5" total. I have the front drive shaft clearing the cross member about an inch. It is possible that I inadvertently changed the u joint angle and eliminated my vibration but I doubt it as I had tried moving the cross member down before and it looks to be about the same.
My 208 is worth $15 core and the cross member is $30 if I go back. I suppose the 208 is worth more to someone else but I'll grab the cross member if it's still there and looks like it fits my frame.
I had to guess on how high to make my spacer, it's about 5" total. I have the front drive shaft clearing the cross member about an inch. It is possible that I inadvertently changed the u joint angle and eliminated my vibration but I doubt it as I had tried moving the cross member down before and it looks to be about the same.
I would keep the flat crossmember if it tucks up a little better than the "W" one. Might catch on less stuff if you drag your belly. The spacer is no big deal, really.
C = Chevy is about all you need to know.
The DLD and DHD are Dodge cases.
The DLD and DHD are Dodge cases.
