NP208 Transfer Case Causing Vibration?

[diesel4me]

OH..I was under the impression you were trying to seal up the connection between the transfer case and adapter,or adapter to the trans,not split the case--now that I've re-read all the threads here I see my error..
I had read the first post at the top of this page and thought it was leaking at that square cut o-ring point..a few posts down you then stated the case halves were leaking..
..
I have no experience in taking a transfer case apart,the few times I had one go bad,I just swapped another one in .so disregard what I posted and follow the other posters here who have had one apart before..

 

[PaulZ]

No sweat. Well I just got done down there. Had to go buy a new tube of Right Stuff. Costs more per ounce than top shelf bourbon. So I just sprayed it with brake clean, wire brushed and a bead on the outside. If that doesn't hold I'm just going to bolt a drip pan to the crossmember.

Thanks for the replies, again.

 

[diesel4me]

It might work out,I put Permatex "Ultra Black" on my porus 6.2 oil pan over a year ago to seal up some rust scabs that flaked off and left pinholes,and its still holding..I wasn't wiling to buy a tube of Right Stuff for $25 ,in case it failed to work..

I used a shop vac on the oil filler tube and plugged off the crankcase breather to pull a vacuum in the crank case--that kept the oil from oozing out without having to drain it,and I was able to clean off the area with brake cleaner and wire brush some loose rust off ,then smear the RTV over the whole area--left the vacuum running until the stuff dried,took about 15 minutes..it must have pulled some of the RTV into the pin holes and helped it stay attached to the pan..

Saw that trick on YouTube on a 7.3 Ford diesel oil pan a guy coated with "Right Stuff" completely..on those trucks the engine either has to come out,or at least be lifted up far enough to get the pan off,which requires unbolting the cab mounts and lifting the cab up!..one of Fords "better ideas" I guess....

 

[PaulZ]

Well my first quickie attempt of just slapping some Right Stuff up there failed, looked like the ATF went right through it before it even dried. At least it gave me a pretty good idea of the leak spot, right behind the strut rod. So I have just finished draining it, pulling a vacuum with the shop vac, sucking in (hopefully) some brake clean, and applying a new coat of RS. No way that was going to suck in the seam. I'll say one thing for it though, the stuff I put on yesterday stuck to the outside of the case very well, a stiff wire brush wouldn't take it off the way it takes regular rtv silicone off.

I'll report back on the new results.

 

[diesel4me]

I did drain the oil on my first attempt and let it drain overnight,next day I also sprayed brake cleaner in thru the drain hole to help get as much oil off the inside of the pan as possible.

I had to use short bolts in some bigger holes on the oil pan to plug them up,pinholes I made bigger by trying to use sheet metal screws that just stripped and the holes kept getting larger as I kept increasing the size of the screws, before I got to more solid metal..
Ended up with two 7/16" flywheel bolts with thin heads that tightened up enough,but would weep oil..

I put tiger hair bondo over most of that whole side of the oil pan after I wire brushed off the loose rust flakes,brake cleaned the piss out of it,and let it set up overnight -- that worked good,only trouble was a few new pinholes appeared in the rear of the pan halfway up after I filled it back up with oil and ran it--that is when I used the vacuum cleaner and RTV to seal that area up.
...it only leaks a few drips overnight now ,after I forget how many years ago I did this,at least 5 --had to do it in January with plenty of snow and frigid temps too..otherwise I would have put on a batter oil pan,which I have 2 of,but haven't had the ability to lay under the truck that long..I need a lift to do that kind of job,ain't got one..

 

[dyeager535]

I want to say somewhere I read anaerobic is what is recommended. I had to pull mine for another reason, beyond the leak, but I felt having the sealing surface vertical would allow me to make sure it was spotless, and no atf contamination, plus allow me to make sure it dropped straight on without disturbing the sealant.

Anymore when I use sealant, I wait 24 hours before exposing it to fluid and/or pressure and heat. Probably overkill, but I absolutely hate leaks and want to do everything I can to prevent them. I'm getting old enough that having to inspect the underside for leaks every time I drive it gets tiresome. I'm only asking the thing to seal up as good as it did when it was made. I dont think that's expecting too much.

 

[PaulZ]

Yeah I was going to try and suck in some locktite but the Right Stuff was stuck so well to the outside of the case I just went over it with another coat. Let it sit overnight, then filled it and let it sit again. So far about 10 miles and no leak.

Thanks again for the replies.