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NV4500/203/205 install *updated 10/06* Done!!

If you are clocking the doubler then why isn't the belly flat? From the pic it looks like it is well below the frame rails.
 
Like everything there are compromises to be made here and there. This is still a DD, so having a little less angle on the rear driveline will help. The angle of the camera when I snapped the pic's makes it look like it's hanging lower than it is though. The lowest point is about 3 1/2" below the frame rails and the drivetrain does not have that much angle to it...maybe 2 degrees.

If it was a trailer queen I probably would have gone up another 1 1/2" or so, but that would require even more floor cutting because the yoke on the 205 would be hitting the underside of the floor then. It's 1 1/2" away from the floor right now.

Rene
 
lunch time...and time for a couple of progress pic's.

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Definitely not done yet. Still need the mount for under the NV4500. I have a friend coming over with another GM crossmember I can butcher to suit my needs...but he won't be here until after dinner sometime.

Most of what you see will be plated in with 3/16" A36 sheet steel.

Anyways, a little slow going... :dunno:

Rene
 
tRustyK5 said:
lunch time...and time for a couple of progress pic's.

111aaa005-1.jpg


111aaa007-1.jpg


111aaa006-1.jpg


111aaa008-1.jpg


Definitely not done yet. Still need the mount for under the NV4500. I have a friend coming over with another GM crossmember I can butcher to suit my needs...but he won't be here until after dinner sometime.

Most of what you see will be plated in with 3/16" A36 sheet steel.

Anyways, a little slow going... :dunno:

Rene

Looks good rene! im gonna need to build a crossmember for my 465/ 205 in my 93...not gonna be fun. i might have to steal a few ideas... Cant wait to see what it looks like all said and done.
 
Almost done the crossmember now...couple more progress pic's.

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111aaa003-2.jpg


I haven't welded the plating on yet, I need to get the thing up there and see if any of those pieces should be removable for access to stuff or whether I'll be able to reach around them...

I just need to add the mount for underneath the output housing on the NV4500, paint it and bolt it up.

Rene
 
that looks good!!! get that thing on there and take some more pics!
 
Finally done this part of the build. Technically I'll be done when the floor is back in...but that's sheet metal and nobody cares about sheet metal right??:D

Crossmember finally done. 2 full days to knock this out...of course that's working at home, single carport and about 10% of the tools I'm used to having at hand. Also trying to work around kids, neighbors etc etc. Overall I'm happy with the way it turned out...

111aaa006-2.jpg


111aaa005-2.jpg


And finally bolted up for good. Pic's are a bit dark...I'll try and snap a few better pic's tomorrow when there's better light.

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111aaa012-2.jpg


Also got my triple sticks hooked up and adjusted to suit. The NWF kit is very easy to install and work with...and the shifting is very crisp (so unlike the stock 30 year old crap) :bow: :bow:

So, tomorrow i'll be onto some boring stuff like mounting my clutch/brake bucket, gauges (finally) and remainder of dash. Might do the U-joint steering shaft while it's all apart too. Then relocate the front shackle hangers as per Jekbrowns write up.

Currently waiting for my Bilstein 5150's to come in, as well as all my hydro clutch junk.

Rene
 
Looks really good rene! cant wait to see it all buttoned up!:D
 
Excellant Build Rene,very nice do you think floor hacking would be avoidable with a 2" bodylift?????
 
I think so, although it just depends on how high up you want it. Realistically I could only go up another 1" before the rear yoke would be hitting the floor (and I have a 1" body lift.)

To be honest I carved the floor out to make my life a bit easier. By doing so I was able to suspend the whole thing from the roll cage using ratchet straps...I'm still amazed nobody asked what was holding the whole thing up at height while I was fabbing the cross member. :D

Removing the floor also made setting up the triple stick stuff a piece of cake. I predict 95% of what I removed will drop right back where it was with no problems. There is an area directly above the rear output that will need redoing, and also right where the triple sticks are. They ended up right where the bolt on tunnel ends. The NV4500 is long though, so depending on what the dual cases are mounted behind will determine how much floor problems you might have.

I may just grab a pan brake and some 18 guage tomorrow and fab the whole thing anyways...

Rene
 
tRustyK5 said:
I may just grab a pan brake and some 18 guage tomorrow and fab the whole thing anyways...

Rene

This may very well wind up being the easier answer rather than making stock pieces fit back in.
 
I was thinking of something like that maybe start were the bolt on hump stops and go all the way to "step" up in the floor????
 
yellowK20 said:
I was thinking of something like that maybe start were the bolt on hump stops and go all the way to "step" up in the floor????

Yup, that's kinda what I'm thinking too. Easy and clean looking. :waytogo:

Rene
 
tRustyK5 said:
Finally done this part of the build. Technically I'll be done when the floor is back in...but that's sheet metal and nobody cares about sheet metal right??:D

Crossmember finally done. 2 full days to knock this out...of course that's working at home, single carport and about 10% of the tools I'm used to having at hand. Also trying to work around kids, neighbors etc etc. Overall I'm happy with the way it turned out...

111aaa006-2.jpg


111aaa005-2.jpg


And finally bolted up for good. Pic's are a bit dark...I'll try and snap a few better pic's tomorrow when there's better light.

111aaa010-2.jpg


111aaa012-2.jpg


Also got my triple sticks hooked up and adjusted to suit. The NWF kit is very easy to install and work with...and the shifting is very crisp (so unlike the stock 30 year old crap) :bow: :bow:

So, tomorrow i'll be onto some boring stuff like mounting my clutch/brake bucket, gauges (finally) and remainder of dash. Might do the U-joint steering shaft while it's all apart too. Then relocate the front shackle hangers as per Jekbrowns write up.

Currently waiting for my Bilstein 5150's to come in, as well as all my hydro clutch junk.

Rene


Sweet build Rene, I'm sure it will help a lot of others who follow in your footsteps. :thumb:
 
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