CK5
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Okay so oil was POURING out and...

One thing no one seems to have picked up on so far.

That is a Pressure hole. Everything is going out. So, after you get through doing whatever you have to do, before you plug it, spin the engine over a couple of times.

That oil gusher you are trying to fix will work in your favor this time. Should wash any filings or pieces out.

And yeah, I would double or triple check to make sure nothing is broken off in there.
Getting the remains of something out is many times better than tapping the hole.

Plus, if you start tapping, and there is something in there, you are going to break through to the old threads and really have a mess.

If you can get to it so that you have room to maneuver, get a magnifying glass and a bright light and examine the area close in around the hole.

Look for a seam or a different type of metal. You might lightly hit it with a grinder. What ever might be broken off in there probably is not the exact same material as the block.
If you polish it up, it will look different and you may be able to see the seam.

Maybe hit it with some brake cleaner to get all the oil off. Especially look for a slight pattern in the hole.

If there is something in there, and it has been drilled out to the inside of the threads, then there is not enough for the easy out to get a grip on without cutting into the threads in the block.

So, then you take a sharp pick and pick out the old pieces.
As always, you have to fully define and understand the problem. Right now, you don't know enough about it.
 
One thing no one seems to have picked up on so far.

That is a Pressure hole. Everything is going out. So, after you get through doing whatever you have to do, before you plug it, spin the engine over a couple of times.

That oil gusher you are trying to fix will work in your favor this time. Should wash any filings or pieces out.

I picked up on it long ago.... i just figured there were enough opinions that were on the right track....

One trick I learned in pipefitting chilled water lines....that may be helpfull..
when ever we had a valve that would seep enough water thru a line and cause us not to be able to solder or weld the last fitting due to steam boiling from the water seepage, was to stuff the line full of bread.....yes....bread.

the bread would soak up enough water while we made the final weld and then once we were done we would just open the system and the bread would be flushed away..... a little bread in a multi ton chiller is not going to hurt anything....

point is, as fordum said...once the repair is made,, spin over the engine and flush everything out.....heck you can even stuff some bread or biscuit dough, grease,,chewing gum,,whatever down into the hole prior to drilling.... it will just get blown out when you crank it over.....:D

and I agree there is something broken off in the original threaded port...
I would try a reverse twist drill bit....and if that fails try to pick out the remaining pieces....failing that... drill it oversize...tap it 1/4 NPT stick a 1/4 x 1/8 pipe bushng in it and be done with it....
 
The ez out or reverse drill bit gets my vote. That's what I did when I broke a sender off clean at the block.
 
One thing no one seems to have picked up on so far.

That is a Pressure hole. Everything is going out. So, after you get through doing whatever you have to do, before you plug it, spin the engine over a couple of times.

That oil gusher you are trying to fix will work in your favor this time. Should wash any filings or pieces out.

And yeah, I would double or triple check to make sure nothing is broken off in there.
Getting the remains of something out is many times better than tapping the hole.

Plus, if you start tapping, and there is something in there, you are going to break through to the old threads and really have a mess.

If you can get to it so that you have room to maneuver, get a magnifying glass and a bright light and examine the area close in around the hole.

Look for a seam or a different type of metal. You might lightly hit it with a grinder. What ever might be broken off in there probably is not the exact same material as the block.
If you polish it up, it will look different and you may be able to see the seam.

Maybe hit it with some brake cleaner to get all the oil off. Especially look for a slight pattern in the hole.

If there is something in there, and it has been drilled out to the inside of the threads, then there is not enough for the easy out to get a grip on without cutting into the threads in the block.

So, then you take a sharp pick and pick out the old pieces.
As always, you have to fully define and understand the problem. Right now, you don't know enough about it.

There is definitely something in there. As one member pointed out there is a distinct circle pattern of a different material around the outside in one section clearly signifying a broken sender is stuck in there.
 
Thanks for the feedback guys! Hard to work on the blazer everyday because I live 15-20 miles from it but I will look at that hole again...If there is something broke in there(which i think you guys are right) I will try to get it out...When I stuck a screwdriver it got narrower about 2 inches deep into the hole but it was still hollow all the way through as the screwdriver kept going...Sure wish we knew about this prior to stabbing the motor. Will keep you posted on how tomorrow goes:popcorn:
 
That hole is 1/4" NPT from the factory, it's the oil galley behind the distributor that is 1/8" NPT.



OK...you're right ......

so drill it and tap it 3/8 npt.... and stick a 3/8 x 1/4 bushing in it....:haha:
 
Hole size is really close to 1/2 inch...So going to tap it tomorrow. Do I use a 1/2 inch tap?

Just to make clear.. You are using a pipe tap I hope? Completely different than a normal bolt thread tap. Npt (pipe) taps are tapered. If it was originally a 1/4" and is now drilled out, next size up is going to be 3/8". You will need to find the correct drill bit size for the tap. The tap package should say on it the correct drill bit size.
 
Exactly. I just got through having to make a tapped hole that was 1/2 inch NPT. It took a 23/32 drill bit.

Which is almost 3/4 of an inch, so a 1/2 inch hole now would not work.

Here the three common NPT taps and the hole sizes they take.

Hope the formatting holds up.

Tap------------------ Drill Bit.
1/4-18 ( 1/4 NPT) 7/16

3/8-18 ( 3/8 NPT) 37/64

1/2-14 ( 1/2 NPT) 23/32
 
All i'm going to add here is that he's about to screw things up and were going to see his next post about him pulling the engine to start building another block to replace this one that HE screwed up by not listening to the advice given him here.
 
I mean... a guy who had to ask how to get the plastic headlight bezels out is about to work on a motor. Stand by.
 
Tap------------------ Drill Bit.

3/8-18 ( 3/8 NPT) 37/64

This is the drill and tap im guessing you will need. 37/64 is .578". A 3/8" plug is physicaly bigger than a 1/2 of an inch. All npt plug sizes are physically bigger than what they are called.
 
All i'm going to add here is that he's about to screw things up and were going to see his next post about him pulling the engine to start building another block to replace this one that HE screwed up by not listening to the advice given him here.


Ive never been a fan of people who ask for advice and plow ahead against the tide ignoring everyone...
 
Yeah please stand bye because I tapped the hole and plugged it in 5 minutes. You guys who said there was something broken off was wrong it was just the lighting in the pic that made it look like that. Yeah I ask for advice on here and I take it but there wasnt anything broke the hole just wasn't threaded. My brother is a master tech and he said some blocks need the holes threaded. I can only go work on the blazer at night which is why I didnt see the screws at first for the headlight bezel. Negative comments were pointless but its okay the jobs done anyways :thumb:
 
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