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Old faithful

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Alright, anyone have a clue why my timing cover seal keeps leaking? it's the round seal that goes around the crank, I've replaced it twice an it still leaks. The rest if the cover doesn't leak at all just that one seal behind the harmonic balancer. Any ideas?
 
Do you have any burrs on the cover itself.
I have always taken some scotch bright pas and "Ruffed" up the inner diameter then applied a thin a thin coat of rtv on the inside of the seal prior to installing it.

Can you pin point were exactly the leak is coming from
 
I haven't seen anything and it felt real smooth when I installed it. The leak is legit coming from the round seal that you press in, right behind the damper.
 
Got another question, who can tell me how much psi I should be seeing when I compression test a cylinder. I'm seeing 70 psi or less
 
nmxhustla said:
Got another question, who can tell me how much psi I should be seeing when I compression test a cylinder. I'm seeing 70 psi or less
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Depends on the engine, but I would want to see at least 110 on a low compression engine. When doing the compression test you want to have all your spark plugs out and the throttle blade held wide open. Then you are looking for consistency between all the cylinders more than the number itself.
 
Fastereddie said:
Depends on the engine, but I would want to see at least 110 on a low compression engine. When doing the compression test you want to have all your spark plugs out and the throttle blade held wide open. Then you are looking for consistency between all the cylinders more than the number itself.
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It's a mark iv big block but no more then 70 or 80 psi in the cylinder. We checked 1 2 and cylinder 3 all the same
 
nmxhustla said:
It's a mark iv big block but no more then 70 or 80 psi in the cylinder. We checked 1 2 and cylinder 3 all the same
Click to expand...

Yeah If you pull all 8 plugs and tie wire the throtte open. It’ll crank alot quicker and pump up. Make sure you disconnect your coil/ pull fuse.
 
nmxhustla said:
I believe it has excessive blow by causing it to leak from the seal behind the harmonic balancer. Excessive pressure in the crank case
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Ok. I can’t see from the pics, do you have a pcv valve in one valve cover and a fresh air vent in the opposite valve cover?
 
Fastereddie said:
Ok. I can’t see from the pics, do you have a pcv valve in one valve cover and a fresh air vent in the opposite valve cover?
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Yeah now I do lol baste with me but I'm so dumb i been running the Pcv valve and a ****in cap on the other side. I just put a breather on not 10 minutes ago as a bandaid fix
 
eric67camino said:
If you are concerned about blowby being the problem I would recommend a leak down test, as well.
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I have to get it diagnosed by a dealer now to get it fixed under the warranty, funny thing is the dealers are turning me away since they didn't install it. Guess I'll be lawyering up
 
I went back to the beginning to check and didn't see it, but where did the engine come from? GM performance crate from a dealer or some other reman source?

Who's saying it has to go to a dealer? Dealers can be picky about it for sure with the GM performance stuff because there are so many variables involved. But the most common way they get out of it is by doing what they have done. If they didn't sell it they won't work on it. No saying it's right but it's the easy way out when they don't want to deal with a complex issue like this. Be prepared as if a dealer does say ok to diagnosing, the next easiest thing to do is blame who ever installed it for doing something wrong and thereby causing the issue. Again no coverage in that case. Add the aftermarket EFI into the mix and it's another variable they have to deal with.

Best thing to do is accurately diagnose the problem. Do a complete compression test. Followed by a leakdown test. Something is really out of line for a fresh engine to have compression values where you have seen. You are trying to pinpoint a defect. Hard data is your best weapon before you get to a dealer. This way you'll know if they are blowing smoke or on the level.

Right now you don't know and you need to find it prior to taking it to any dealer.
 
ZooMad75 said:
I went back to the beginning to check and didn't see it, but where did the engine come from? GM performance crate from a dealer or some other reman source?

Who's saying it has to go to a dealer? Dealers can be picky about it for sure with the GM performance stuff because there are so many variables involved. But the most common way they get out of it is by doing what they have done. If they didn't sell it they won't work on it. No saying it's right but it's the easy way out when they don't want to deal with a complex issue like this. Be prepared as if a dealer does say ok to diagnosing, the next easiest thing to do is blame who ever installed it for doing something wrong and thereby causing the issue. Again no coverage in that case. Add the aftermarket EFI into the mix and it's another variable they have to deal with.

Best thing to do is accurately diagnose the problem. Do a complete compression test. Followed by a leakdown test. Something is really out of line for a fresh engine to have compression values where you have seen. You are trying to pinpoint a defect. Hard data is your best weapon before you get to a dealer. This way you'll know if they are blowing smoke or on the level.

Right now you don't know and you need to find it prior to taking it to any dealer.
Click to expand...
GM performance says it must be diagnosed by a GM dealer, this engine came out the box with a improperly installed valve seat causing 1 cylinder to have no compression at all followed by finding out the rear main seal was never installed from the factory. This thing was assembled by what I believe to be a unsupervised high school shop class. They cant blame the Intalling mechanic nor the EFI in my opinion due to the fact there are already multiple other issues this engine had out of the box, it's a trend at this point.
 
ZooMad75 said:
I went back to the beginning to check and didn't see it, but where did the engine come from? GM performance crate from a dealer or some other reman source?

Who's saying it has to go to a dealer? Dealers can be picky about it for sure with the GM performance stuff because there are so many variables involved. But the most common way they get out of it is by doing what they have done. If they didn't sell it they won't work on it. No saying it's right but it's the easy way out when they don't want to deal with a complex issue like this. Be prepared as if a dealer does say ok to diagnosing, the next easiest thing to do is blame who ever installed it for doing something wrong and thereby causing the issue. Again no coverage in that case. Add the aftermarket EFI into the mix and it's another variable they have to deal with.

Best thing to do is accurately diagnose the problem. Do a complete compression test. Followed by a leakdown test. Something is really out of line for a fresh engine to have compression values where you have seen. You are trying to pinpoint a defect. Hard data is your best weapon before you get to a dealer. This way you'll know if they are blowing smoke or on the level.

Right now you don't know and you need to find it prior to taking it to any dealer.
Click to expand...
I think with this proof of poor assembly as evidence I'll be clear of them blaming the installing party or the EFI
 
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