I have the same crossmember and ls mounts from TNA. They work really well! On mine I had to pull the engine all the way forward to clear the firewall.
CK5
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Old Iron 2.0
- Thread starter handloader90
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handloader90
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Did you have to move the tranny forward at all to bolt up the block with the engine being all the way forward?
I used TNA's transmission crossmember as well so had to drill new holes anyways. It use to be a th350 / np203 and now 4l60e np241 so not sure if it moved anywhere from stock or not.
handloader90
Building!
What holes did you have to drill? I bought the x-member and the LS mounts both from him. I thought I read somewhere that the newer x-member that he makes (the one I have) doesn't require drilling holes in the frame.
I think I have the older version of the transmission crossmember. I had it for a while and only recently installed it. The 4l60e is longer than the th350 so I think I would have had to drill new holes no matter what
This is how close it was to the firewall, I think it is about perfect fit.
I believe what @Rugby_7 is trying to tell you is he has a TNA TRANSMISSION crossmember in addition to his TNA ENGINE crossmember and the transmission crossmember is what he had to drill holes for hence he doesn't know if the stock trans crossmember could be reused in the original location. From your pics it looks like you only have the ENGINE crossmember.
handloader90
Building!
Gotcha! I have a SM465 in the truck now and plan on keeping it there? I'm hoping everything will bolt up just fine in terms of keeping the gearbox where it sits from the factory.
handloader90
Building!
Yessir, I only have the engine x-member and LS mounts. Didn't see a need for the trans x-member. We'llsee how everything goes when I get everything ready to bolt up.
Darren was saying (or I read it in a thread on here) that an LS rocking his x-member and LS mounts would allow the factory trans to stay in the stock location. I'm assuming the newer electronic transmissions may have the mount portion of it where the x-member goes in a slightly different location than the old cheby stuff.
handloader90
Building!
So tomorrow I'm gonna get out in the garage and do something lol. The plan is to pull the fenders and hood off of the the truck to finish up taking the front end off.
I plan on priming the TNA crossmember and LS mounts with some Rustoleum rusty metal primer (the red oxide stuff) out of the can, gonna roll it on with my little mini roller and hit the corners and stuff with some little foam brushes.
Probably gonna clean some crud off of the frame up around the engine area, hopefully get the factory engine x-member out. Gonna slice it right down the middle like the last one probably or if I can get it out in 1 piece I'll do it that way.
I'd like to pull the steering gear and wire wheel the frame there to see if I've got any cracks.
I need to get some B52's from Kert, the radiatior support bushing mount (the part that ties into the leaf spring bucket on the passenger side broke off from the rest of the mount when I pulled the radiator support prior to pulling the engine... I've never seen that happen before. I do still have 1 or 2 sets of those complete mounts from the last two trucks when I put the B52's and the A-Bomb on so I'll probably pull those out and run the better looking one for now.
I plan on priming the TNA crossmember and LS mounts with some Rustoleum rusty metal primer (the red oxide stuff) out of the can, gonna roll it on with my little mini roller and hit the corners and stuff with some little foam brushes.
Probably gonna clean some crud off of the frame up around the engine area, hopefully get the factory engine x-member out. Gonna slice it right down the middle like the last one probably or if I can get it out in 1 piece I'll do it that way.
I'd like to pull the steering gear and wire wheel the frame there to see if I've got any cracks.
I need to get some B52's from Kert, the radiatior support bushing mount (the part that ties into the leaf spring bucket on the passenger side broke off from the rest of the mount when I pulled the radiator support prior to pulling the engine... I've never seen that happen before. I do still have 1 or 2 sets of those complete mounts from the last two trucks when I put the B52's and the A-Bomb on so I'll probably pull those out and run the better looking one for now.
handloader90
Building!
Changed the short term plan a little bit too. I wanted to run my 52's up front and 56's in the rear. B52's and 52's up front would require cross-over and if I did cross-over I'd want to do hydro assist at the same time or shortly after. So for now I'm gonna just run the 47's, P.O. put some 6" lift springs up front and I'm gonna try to play with that spring pack and a set of 52's and try to bring it down lower... don't know how that's gonna work out.
I'm moving back to Colorado in May 2017 and this truck has to be running under it's own power before I get ready to move. So trying to save up for the move etc. I'm gonna have to put some mods off until I get to Colorado which I'm totally cool with.
So the plan for now is:
- Get the 6.0 in and mounted up to the 4 speed.
- Shackle Flip
- Kert's beefed shackle hangers
- Disc brakes on the 14FF
- 1 Tons bolted up, run brakes (lines, MC/Booster and possibly that fancy Wilwood prop. valve)
- Gauges... idk what the hell the plan is just yet, I'm looking into the Intellitronix gauge cluster thing, seems pretty high speed and it's all digital with CREE LED's.
- Plexiglas piece for the rear glass, running a truck tailgate and I plan on keeping the factory hard top.
- Wheels and tires
I'm moving back to Colorado in May 2017 and this truck has to be running under it's own power before I get ready to move. So trying to save up for the move etc. I'm gonna have to put some mods off until I get to Colorado which I'm totally cool with.
So the plan for now is:
- Get the 6.0 in and mounted up to the 4 speed.
- Shackle Flip
- Kert's beefed shackle hangers
- Disc brakes on the 14FF
- 1 Tons bolted up, run brakes (lines, MC/Booster and possibly that fancy Wilwood prop. valve)
- Gauges... idk what the hell the plan is just yet, I'm looking into the Intellitronix gauge cluster thing, seems pretty high speed and it's all digital with CREE LED's.
- Plexiglas piece for the rear glass, running a truck tailgate and I plan on keeping the factory hard top.
- Wheels and tires
handloader90
Building!
Also, I've got a guy driving up from Bama tomorrow and he's bringing a 3.73 geared Dana 60 and 14FF in trade for my 4.56 geared tons.
I really don't wanna run 37's or higher so the 4.56's are not really gonna workout for me. I'm cool with a 33" or 35" tire, I don't really feel like I need much more.
Pics of said axles are attached. The dude said he welded the spider gears in the 14FF but didn't mess with the carrier so I've gotta find some spider gears or throw a lock-right in there or something.
He had these axles under a '76 K5 so the 14FF either came from a 3/4 ton or him or someone else had removed the factory perches and put new ones on, gunna figure that one out tomorrow when he shows up with the goods.
I really don't wanna run 37's or higher so the 4.56's are not really gonna workout for me. I'm cool with a 33" or 35" tire, I don't really feel like I need much more.
Pics of said axles are attached. The dude said he welded the spider gears in the 14FF but didn't mess with the carrier so I've gotta find some spider gears or throw a lock-right in there or something.
He had these axles under a '76 K5 so the 14FF either came from a 3/4 ton or him or someone else had removed the factory perches and put new ones on, gunna figure that one out tomorrow when he shows up with the goods.
handloader90
Building!
I've been searching all over... here, pirate and a few other forums about running 35's with 3.73 gears and a SM465/NP205. I know you can get away with a little more with a manual vs. an auto but I'm curious as to what that combo would be like. I'm cool with running 33's but for the price I could step up to 35's for just a few dollars more so if I can run them and not have much loss in power and M.P.G. then I would just go ahead with 35's.
Don't plan on really towing anything heavy if anything at all, truck will be driven daily when I finally get it put together and it will see the trails in Colorado when I make it out there. So a double duty daily driver/ family offroad rig.
Don't plan on really towing anything heavy if anything at all, truck will be driven daily when I finally get it put together and it will see the trails in Colorado when I make it out there. So a double duty daily driver/ family offroad rig.
I have 3.73s on the K20 and the sm465 with stock size tires. I really enjoy driving it even with the wide gear split on the trans. On the highway, running 70mph I'm hitting around 2600-2800 rpms.
So, imo, your gonna want to run 33s with the 3.73s or keep the 4.56s and run 35s or 36s.
3.73s and 35s, I think, will gain a bigger split "feel" between 1st and 2nd.
So, imo, your gonna want to run 33s with the 3.73s or keep the 4.56s and run 35s or 36s.
3.73s and 35s, I think, will gain a bigger split "feel" between 1st and 2nd.
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handloader90
Building!
That K20 has 31's on it or?
I think I'm gonna try and wrap some 15" wheels around these axles. I've got some 35x12.5x15 Cooper STT's that have pretty good tread, figured I might as well throw those on since I need to direct funds in some different areas. They measure out to like 33.5" so I'm guessing I'll be good to go... gonna run em anyway so It'll have to do lol.
handloader90
Building!
What size tires and gear are you running on that 44 and 14SF?
Yeah, they are roughly 31s. 235/85/16 so roughly 31.7" tall according to an online conversion chart.
Still on 35s with 4.10s now
handloader90
Building!
Got a box in the mail today...
Stock tuned computer with all the stuff not needed deleted, A/F and timing changed a hair.
Full wire harnes... fuse block, alternator, starter wiring, looks like a whole bunch of mess.
Fly by wire pedal with tac module
Alrernator
x1 coil to replace my broken one.
Complete intake, it's the flex fuel one so it has larger 33 lb. injectors, some blingy fuel rails and I could use e85 if I ever wanted to feel cool.
It's got some kind of sensor that gets spliced into the cold air intake too...
And o2 sensors.
Stock tuned computer with all the stuff not needed deleted, A/F and timing changed a hair.
Full wire harnes... fuse block, alternator, starter wiring, looks like a whole bunch of mess.
Fly by wire pedal with tac module
Alrernator
x1 coil to replace my broken one.
Complete intake, it's the flex fuel one so it has larger 33 lb. injectors, some blingy fuel rails and I could use e85 if I ever wanted to feel cool.
It's got some kind of sensor that gets spliced into the cold air intake too...
And o2 sensors.
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