CK5
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Old Iron 2.0
- Thread starter handloader90
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- smashed a$$
handloader90
Building!
Thanks. Doesn't smell bad in there anymore either.
It caught me off guard cause out of the 7 K-trucks I've owned this is the only one that had the extra bracing, definitely not complaining about it though.
Pics of said crossmember?
And just to reinforce your datapoint, my 80 was a 10f/10r from the factory. th350/205
And just to reinforce your datapoint, my 80 was a 10f/10r from the factory. th350/205
handloader90
Building!
I'll snap some pics when I get home.
handloader90
Building!
Adapter fittings for the prop valve will be here sometime today.
Should be able to wrap up the brakes minus rear flex lines going to the calipers
Gonma call ORD as soon as they open and get the short line kit. Hopefully it will ship todat and be here soon.
Should be able to wrap up the brakes minus rear flex lines going to the calipers
Gonma call ORD as soon as they open and get the short line kit. Hopefully it will ship todat and be here soon.
handloader90
Building!
Ordered the short line kit P/N: GU30111
Should be here Thursday.
Gonna try to slide the 14FF under the truck and get it bolted up today.
Should be here Thursday.
Gonna try to slide the 14FF under the truck and get it bolted up today.
handloader90
Building!
Got the 12 bolt out and the 14FF swapped in during my lunch break.
Still have to cut the U-Bolts down so I can get a socket on them and torque them down.
Got a 1310/1350 conversion U-Joint waiting on me at the parts store.
Still have to cut the U-Bolts down so I can get a socket on them and torque them down.
Got a 1310/1350 conversion U-Joint waiting on me at the parts store.
handloader90
Building!
handloader90
Building!
Thinking about chopping my exhaust right in front of the rear axle. The exhaust tubing hikes up over the axle, comes back down then goes straight to the back.
Problem is my rubber brake drop line that has the T fitting on it which splits the rear lines rests on the exhaust tube on the passenger side and I can't really move the line itself. No deformation on the line... guessing that the exhaust isn't hot enough that far back but I don't want it on there regardless. By cutting the exhaust in front of the axle I eliminate that friction point.
Thoughts on this? I can't see cutting it there causing any issues.
Problem is my rubber brake drop line that has the T fitting on it which splits the rear lines rests on the exhaust tube on the passenger side and I can't really move the line itself. No deformation on the line... guessing that the exhaust isn't hot enough that far back but I don't want it on there regardless. By cutting the exhaust in front of the axle I eliminate that friction point.
Thoughts on this? I can't see cutting it there causing any issues.
I have that X member in my 76 blazer with th350/203. And my k10 has the exhaust cut right before the axle. It's fine.
handloader90
Building!
Is that how all of the x-members came from the factory? Maybe I just ended up with trucks where the previous owners had removed the bracing when doing a lift or something?
Good to hear on the exhaust. I get to feed the Sawzall tonight
Good to hear on the exhaust. I get to feed the Sawzall tonight
handloader90
Building!
That 14FF looks kinda sexy under the truck. Looking forward to getting the 60 under there when I make it out to CO!
Looks like that may support the frame better - being that it attaches to the top of the frame as well as the bottom.
handloader90
Building!
Definitely seems more stout than what I'm used to.
handloader90
Building!
Got the U-bolts torqued to 150 lbs. Triple checked torque, cut the extra material off and smoothed it over with the flapper wheel.
Got the 1310/1350 conversion U-Joint installed into the drive shaft and got the driveshaft bolted up. Removing the old U-Joint was a pain in the ass, it was rusted in there pretty good. I didn't mess anything up though so I'm happy about that.
Got my adapter fittings in for the prop valve. Twisted them in so I don't lose them in my mess of a garage.
Got the 1310/1350 conversion U-Joint installed into the drive shaft and got the driveshaft bolted up. Removing the old U-Joint was a pain in the ass, it was rusted in there pretty good. I didn't mess anything up though so I'm happy about that.
Got my adapter fittings in for the prop valve. Twisted them in so I don't lose them in my mess of a garage.
handloader90
Building!
Saw this truck at work today. It's got metric 35's on it. Does that look like 4" of lift of 6"?
I'm shooting for that height with some 35x12.5x15 BFG KO2's.
*Edit* Added two more pics of that truck.
I'm shooting for that height with some 35x12.5x15 BFG KO2's.
*Edit* Added two more pics of that truck.
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Kinda hard to tell with the angle of the pic but my vote would be 4 inch. I think the 4 inch and 35s looks better than a 6 inch and 35s
handloader90
Building!
I took the pic from a higher angle pointing down at the truck.
Truck looked a little taller up close and in person.
@handloader90 , you'd be better off in the long run, if 35's is your actual goal, to stay 4" lift or less. Driveshafts are expensive. Especially high angle ones...
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