CK5
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Old Iron 2.0

I did the stainless rear axle line kit from ORD, all the way from the frame down to axle then out to calipers. Very nice and easy to install.
 
Got the new ring gear bolts today. Wasn't expecting them to be that long.

Got the wheels too. Was pretty upset about these. One is totally fine, the other is jacked the hell up... thought maybe the Fedex man just threw the package down and the lip on the wheel got all bent up. Looked at it some more and it's definitely a huge quality control issue, found more issues with the wheel upon further inspection. I'll snap some pics in the sun tomorrow morning, the flash on my phone didn't catch how horrid this thing is.

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Pics of the jacked up wheel. Those are definitely some grinder marks in there. That's a chunk of peeled back metal in the wheel stud hole, not just paint.

Called Summit this morning and they're doing a swap out of good faith, new wheel will ship Monday and should be here Tues. or Weds.

Usually you have to return the item first, they inspect it then they send the new item out so I was happy that they expedited the process for me.

He put a note on the order for a courtesy check (making sure the new wheel isn't ****ered up) before it ships.

Screwed my timeline up a little bit, was gonna have the tires swapped onto the new wheels and balanced today.

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The other wheel had zero flaws.

Threw it in the hub to check clearances with the caliper.

There is contact between the wheel and caliper but it is only the casting flash on the caliper so I'll pull both calipers today and knock them down a hair with the flapper wheel.

Picking up a 25' roll of 3/16" brake line and a 25' roll of 1/4" brake line from the parts store, ordered it yesterday for in-store pickup. It's from a brand called Edelmann, it's their "RhinoHide" line which has some kind of protective coating on it.

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Let the fun begin lol.

Got the no spin out without any issues. Used my air cleaner stud, some wingnuts and fender washers to contain it. Got the orb of traction out... somebody welded the everliving snot out of that thing!

Have to figure out the best way to try and torque the new ring gear bolts... seems like it gonna be a pain in the ass.

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Cleaned the bolt holes in the ring gear with brake cleaner, dryed the holes out and applied a generous amount of red loctite to the hole threads and the bolts. Torqued the bolts to 120 lbs. in a criss-cross pattern and verified torque 3 times.

Got everything installed. 135 lbs. on the bearing caps and 20 lbs. on the adjusting nut lock bolts.

Couldn't read the pattern on the ring gear from meshing with the pinion gear. Tried to use a paint marker lol... didn't do a whole lot but everything spins good and looks good.

Gonna slap the axle shafts in, pop the calipers off and grind the casting flash down and throw some gear oil in it and seal it up.
 
Clearanced the calipers then squirted a little paint on them. Put in a gallon of gear oil and sealed it up.

Bought some new U-Joint strap bolts. Gonna run a 5/16-24 tap through the bolt holes in the yoke to clean the crud out of the threads.

Gonna get a 1310/1350 conversion U-Joint tomorrow.

Got the Wilwood prop valve in earlier today and picked up my rolls of brake line. Probably gonna start on the brakes tomorrow...
 
Got the factory prop valve out without rounding off any fittings, got the fittings out of the master cylinder without issue too.

Must be my lucky day...

The plan is to splice in a short segment of 1/4 line to the in/out lines for the rear brakes that were connected to the the prop valve.

For the front I'm gonna put a T fitting in the line that was already there and split it to the front calipers.

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Picked up a T fitting for the front 3/16" hard line. Somehow I lucked out and only had to flare one line and put a new fitting on. I also felt pretty lucky because I was able to use all of the front stock lines, no cutting or anything. Just bent them carefully and they plugged right into the T fitting!

Got my splice made for the rear line. I'm using two compression fitting to join the 1/4" rear hardline together.

I would have got the rear line finished and the prop valve installed but I'm waiting on my adapter fittings from inline tube.

As soon as my new wheel and fittings come in the truck will be ready to roll!

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I have a 4 pack of 15 x 10's in 8 lug... I would have practically given them to you...
 
This morning I messed with the interior of the truck a little bit. Pulled the old seat and the old carpet. Shop vac'ed a lot of the crud from under where the seat was and the rust flakes on the floor. Then I pressure washed the whole inside of the truck. Sopped the bodies of water up with a towel and let it air dry for a little while.

Got the "new" leather seat installed and I also put in this rubber molded mat thing. The mat came out of a C30 and was free. Cut a hole for the 205 shifter and got everything into place. It feels way better sitting in the truck now.

I was looking at the Dana 44 earlier and noticed it has a flat top knuckle on the passenger side, thought that was kinda cool. The diff cover has something written on it in paint marker so I'm like 99% positive that the 44 and 12 bolt were transplanted into this truck at some point. I always thought the 1/2 Ton '81-'87('91) trucks came with 10 bolts front and rear.

Something that puzzles me is the TH350/205. The crossmmber has the extra bracing in the form of a bracket on either side that bolts to the crossmember and goes up to the top flange of the frame rail and bolts up there. Never had a truck that had those braces before. It also has the bushed mount coming off of the passenger side of the 205 which mounts to the frame as well. All of it looks factory.

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Heard people say u-joints straps aftermarket on a 14 bolt will break. I got factory ones from GM pretty dang cheap!
 
Heard people say u-joints straps aftermarket on a 14 bolt will break. I got factory ones from GM pretty dang cheap!

I kept the stock straps but installed new grade 8 bolts. The straps and bolts came as a kit. Gonna keep the chinaman's as spares.

I compared the two, less meat on the chinaman's and they are not completely round where the U-Joint seats. The factory ones are perfectly round. I cleaned them up with the wire wheel on my bench grinder and they're good to go.

I would like to upgrade the yoke to the U-Bolt style at some point. Straps should hold up though.
 
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