CK5
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Old Iron 2.0
- Thread starter handloader90
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- smashed a$$
Neither one of my sets do.
Here is a standard 16.5" steel rim without a safety bead. This is how most 16.5" wheels look. A gentle slope from the bead to the wheel center.
This is a GM 16.5" steel wheel with a safety bead. See the indentation where my finger is? It interupts the slope to the wheel center.
Here you can see that it is in fact a 16.5" wheel.
Martin
This is a GM 16.5" steel wheel with a safety bead. See the indentation where my finger is? It interupts the slope to the wheel center.
Here you can see that it is in fact a 16.5" wheel.
Martin
handloader90
Building!
I'll keep a look out for some with the safety bead.
I plan on running the tires at 35 PSI or so, they're mostly gonna be street tires at this point.
They work fine for that. The safety bead is really only useful if you are running the tires at low psi off road. Did my pictures at least show you what to look for?
Martin
Martin
handloader90
Building!
Picked up a "new" core support/grill/lights, light wiring harness, nice 56" springs and a battery box.
Gonna need a new grill and bezels. Needs a headlight too.
Springs are beautiful.
Battery tray is in great shape too, just need to find one of those hard plastic tabs that keeps that battery in place.
Gonna need a new grill and bezels. Needs a headlight too.
Springs are beautiful.
Battery tray is in great shape too, just need to find one of those hard plastic tabs that keeps that battery in place.
might have a battery hold down laying around GM has used them for man years. Always get one from a S10 easy!
handloader90
Building!
If you have one let me know. I'm hitting the junkyard soon to look for a 2wd box, I'll check the S10's out if they have any.
handloader90
Building!
My old battery tray had a battery holder bolted in, never saw it there. Needs a new bolt though.
Got the new battery tray in, when I removed it from the truck the captured nut on the lowest tab pooped off of the sheet metal so I tacked it back on this morning and shot it with some spray paint.
Got the new battery tray in, when I removed it from the truck the captured nut on the lowest tab pooped off of the sheet metal so I tacked it back on this morning and shot it with some spray paint.
handloader90
Building!
Planning on air chiseling off all of the rivets on the rear shackle hangers, front shackle hangers and front spring hangers tomorrow.
Gonna go to Fastenal here soon and load up on 3/8" bolts, washers and nuts so I can bolt all of those pieces back to the frame after the rivets have been removed.
Shackle Flip, B52's and the other parts should be here sometime this week. Once I've painted them and they've dried I'll be putting them on.
Gonna go to Fastenal here soon and load up on 3/8" bolts, washers and nuts so I can bolt all of those pieces back to the frame after the rivets have been removed.
Shackle Flip, B52's and the other parts should be here sometime this week. Once I've painted them and they've dried I'll be putting them on.
I always like to drill out to a 7/16" for all rivets removed and use 7/16" grade 8 bolts.
handloader90
Building!
That's usually what I do. If I remember correctly the B52's, shackle flip and front shackle hangers that come from DIY4X have 3/8" bolts, and he uses the captured nut for the B52's and flip.
handloader90
Building!
Picked up the hardware. Rivet removal is gonna have to wait until Sunday. Got stuck working tomorrow.
handloader90
Building!
Well, this is happening.
handloader90
Building!
This took all of about 6 mins.
You just couldn't wait for Sunday could you....
handloader90
Building!
I'm not really gonna have a weekend and I was sitting on my ass at home not really doing anything and the light bulb came on.
Got all the rivets knocked out and replaced with grade 8 hardware. I believe it was 36 rivets total.
I also peeled the old tires off of my 16.5" wheels in prep for the 37's. Should cost me less to get them mounted and balanced since its just a mount, not a dismount and mount.
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handloader90
Building!
This stuff got dropped off yesterday.
handloader90
Building!
Reason for the new yoke.
One of the U-Joint cap tabs was broken off of the 1310 yoke and somebody welded on a small nut in its place, also all of the ears where the U-Bolts go into are tattered up real good.
Slid the yoke on just to make sure it was right. Gonna pop the old leaky pinion seal and install the new junk. Good thing about the 1350 yoke is that my socket fully engages the pinion nut. With the 1310 I could only grab onto about 1/2 of the nut, if that. So I don't have to grind the socket down.
One of the U-Joint cap tabs was broken off of the 1310 yoke and somebody welded on a small nut in its place, also all of the ears where the U-Bolts go into are tattered up real good.
Slid the yoke on just to make sure it was right. Gonna pop the old leaky pinion seal and install the new junk. Good thing about the 1350 yoke is that my socket fully engages the pinion nut. With the 1310 I could only grab onto about 1/2 of the nut, if that. So I don't have to grind the socket down.
Not sure how far ahead you are but with the amount of droop I had with the long springs up front I had to jump to a tom woods superflex offset ujoint to keep the 1350 from binding up. Something to think about is the available angle with the joint change.
