Big azz pipe wrench, use the concrete floor for a stop. Then just need a socket.
Maybe check prices online and buy used tools at the flea market or pawn shop
CK5
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Old Iron 2.0
- Thread starter handloader90
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- smashed a$$
Maybe check prices online and buy used tools at the flea market or pawn shop
handloader90
Building!
Thanks for the idea, I'm sure I can scrounge one up from somewhere.
handloader90
Building!
Last thread title change...
Linked the original Old Iron build that never got completed in the first post.
Linked the original Old Iron build that never got completed in the first post.
handloader90
Building!
I acquired a decent sized monkey wrench.
handloader90
Building!
Gonna pick up enough 9/16" x 5" bolts so have matching bolts throughout the suspension.
I'm picking up a few different wheel studs tomorrow to see which has the best knurl engagement from rotor to hub... read through a lot of tech and came up with:
Dorman 610-188
Dorman 610-189
Dorman 610-288
Gonna buy one of each and see what they look like.
Might be getting rotors and calipers tomorrow too.
Still need to get the hubs hot washed (need to find a place local first) and get a new hub seal and repack the bearings.
I'm picking up a few different wheel studs tomorrow to see which has the best knurl engagement from rotor to hub... read through a lot of tech and came up with:
Dorman 610-188
Dorman 610-189
Dorman 610-288
Gonna buy one of each and see what they look like.
Might be getting rotors and calipers tomorrow too.
Still need to get the hubs hot washed (need to find a place local first) and get a new hub seal and repack the bearings.
handloader90
Building!
For whatever reason they had a big ass one sitting in the arms room at work, the armorer is a good friend (he's my LS harness wiring braniac) and I asked if I could have it and he told me to take it.
Nice progress dude! Coming along nicely.
handloader90
Building!
Thanks man!
handloader90
Building!
Sold the 1/2 ton axles today for $250, pretty happy about that!
Bought some more 9/16" bolts so everything matches and is interchangeable (except for the front rear spring hanger since it requires a shorter bolt). Fastener store guy sees me in there on Saturdays often and knocked the price from $5something per bolt to $3.09 per bolt, another plus!
Got some wheel studs, the parts store only had the Dorman 610-188 and 610-288.
610-188 looks to be the stock replacement for SRW 14FF's, the shank on the stock studs have more thread running down the length vs. the 188, the 188 is tapered off at the end where you put the lug nut on. Also, the knurl is more pronounced vs. the stock stud.
610-228 is the shorter version of what most people use (610-301) and the surface area of the knurl is very small, like a 2mm or 3mm band running the diameter of the shank... doesn't seem like it would hold anything together, especially where it is located at on the stud.
I believe 610-189 is the stock DRW replacement, I'm pretty sure it's the same on the ORD sells on their website but the parts store that I went to didn't have any in stock.
Bought some more 9/16" bolts so everything matches and is interchangeable (except for the front rear spring hanger since it requires a shorter bolt). Fastener store guy sees me in there on Saturdays often and knocked the price from $5something per bolt to $3.09 per bolt, another plus!
Got some wheel studs, the parts store only had the Dorman 610-188 and 610-288.
610-188 looks to be the stock replacement for SRW 14FF's, the shank on the stock studs have more thread running down the length vs. the 188, the 188 is tapered off at the end where you put the lug nut on. Also, the knurl is more pronounced vs. the stock stud.
610-228 is the shorter version of what most people use (610-301) and the surface area of the knurl is very small, like a 2mm or 3mm band running the diameter of the shank... doesn't seem like it would hold anything together, especially where it is located at on the stud.
I believe 610-189 is the stock DRW replacement, I'm pretty sure it's the same on the ORD sells on their website but the parts store that I went to didn't have any in stock.
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handloader90
Building!
Totall forgot that my calipers from the 1/2 axle were still hooked up, kinda forgot that I had them all together . Gonna use those on the rear.
All I need now is rotors, proper amount of studs, new pads, hub seals, clean up the hubs, clean/inspect/re-pack bearings, and the updated spindle nut stuff.
All I need now is rotors, proper amount of studs, new pads, hub seals, clean up the hubs, clean/inspect/re-pack bearings, and the updated spindle nut stuff.
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handloader90
Building!
Popped the hub seals out, pulled the large bearings, theres a snap ring down in the hub to retain the smaller bearing or race, there is a sleeve that I can't figure out the proper way to get it out.
They look like they stay lubricated off of oil instead of grease too.
They look like they stay lubricated off of oil instead of grease too.
handloader90
Building!
Got all the bearings and those sleeves that they sit in out with a punch and hammer in my vice.
The inside of one of my hubs is pretty rough looking, it's just in the middle part of the hub where nothing is... is it alright to use this hub? None of the bearings sit in this part.
The other hub is smooth on the inside.
The inside of one of my hubs is pretty rough looking, it's just in the middle part of the hub where nothing is... is it alright to use this hub? None of the bearings sit in this part.
The other hub is smooth on the inside.
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handloader90
Building!
Cleaned the hubs up with a gasket scraper, wire brush and a palm sander then shot everything with brake cleaner.
Hosed down all hubs guts with brake cleaner let them dry out and reassembled, put new hub seals in.
Unhooked the 1/2 ton calipers and knocked the casting flash down with a flap wheel and smoothed it over with the palm sander and some 200something grit paper.
Shot the face of the hubs and the calipers with flat black. Calipers take a metric banjo bolt...?
Gonna go pick my rotors up here soon, I'm gonna try the old wheel studs out and see how they do.
Hosed down all hubs guts with brake cleaner let them dry out and reassembled, put new hub seals in.
Unhooked the 1/2 ton calipers and knocked the casting flash down with a flap wheel and smoothed it over with the palm sander and some 200something grit paper.
Shot the face of the hubs and the calipers with flat black. Calipers take a metric banjo bolt...?
Gonna go pick my rotors up here soon, I'm gonna try the old wheel studs out and see how they do.
handloader90
Building!
So... I put the large bearing and the sleeve that they sit in wrong, pulled and destroyed my new hub seals (good thing they didn't cost much) and ****ered up one of the bearings.
handloader90
Building!
4 or 5 parts stores later I got new seals, the inner bearing w/o race and some more wheel studs (I mushroomed the threaded portion of a few studs beyond repair when removing them with my sledge).
Waiting on my rotors... said they'll be in in 2 hrs.
Waiting on my rotors... said they'll be in in 2 hrs.
Live and you learn!
handloader90
Building!
Yea... kinda sucks sometimes lol.
