The wheels turned out really nice, can't wait to see them mounted. What size tires are you going with?
CK5
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ONE BIG JIMMY "Everything In TX Is Bigger!"
- Thread starter NTXJIMMY
- Start date
Did some horse trading and ended up with these for about 200 bucks out of my pocket.
Not exactly what I wanted but I'm going to run them until the are gone and for the money I cant beat it. Being in the tire business does have it's advantages!
Also I really am toying back and forth with how large of a tire I can go without doing a whole lot of body mods. I really do not like cutting fenders. I have done it before and not the way I want to go.
36/13.50R16.5 Super Swamper Irok's
Not exactly what I wanted but I'm going to run them until the are gone and for the money I cant beat it. Being in the tire business does have it's advantages!
Also I really am toying back and forth with how large of a tire I can go without doing a whole lot of body mods. I really do not like cutting fenders. I have done it before and not the way I want to go.
36/13.50R16.5 Super Swamper Irok's
i have the weld sand storms ,yours look great powder coated!
Thanks!
I was a little bit nervous about the way they where going to turn out. I was going to have them polished but they would have been a pain to polish. The guys at the truck polish shops said that they would have to be sanded and the polished and that would have cost me about 100 a wheel to get done and at that cost I would have been better just buying new wheels. So I took them to the coater and he did a great job they really look better in person.
I like the Sandstorms!
They are cool looking a buddy of mine had them on is 2003 2500 HD.
I was a little bit nervous about the way they where going to turn out. I was going to have them polished but they would have been a pain to polish. The guys at the truck polish shops said that they would have to be sanded and the polished and that would have cost me about 100 a wheel to get done and at that cost I would have been better just buying new wheels. So I took them to the coater and he did a great job they really look better in person.
I like the Sandstorms!
They are cool looking a buddy of mine had them on is 2003 2500 HD.
Spent about an hour yesterday at work trying to find a new tie rod end for a guy who I think has the Ballistic Fab cross over and did not want to spend $80 from them for a new one.
Never found one he ended up drilling out his Pitman arm and putting in a tapered sleeve.
The tie rod on the drag link has a 7/8 rod and a 1/2 stud. It is on a Jeep and he was going to switch to a Chevy pitman arm but we did not have any and I did not have any at home.
The tie rod he bought was about 1/4 of the other cost, and had a 5/8 stud.
Never found one he ended up drilling out his Pitman arm and putting in a tapered sleeve.
The tie rod on the drag link has a 7/8 rod and a 1/2 stud. It is on a Jeep and he was going to switch to a Chevy pitman arm but we did not have any and I did not have any at home.
The tie rod he bought was about 1/4 of the other cost, and had a 5/8 stud.
Good info!
I bought it all as a kit and just picked up the pitman arm from the machine shop.
I had them put the new taper on it so it will accept their tie rod
I bought it all as a kit and just picked up the pitman arm from the machine shop.
I had them put the new taper on it so it will accept their tie rod
THRILLBILLY
1/2 ton status
Great minds think alike!
Awesome build so far though, and definitely sub'd now. We're gonna have to meet up sometime, I live in Melissa.
Thanks man
Definitely I'm real close to Melissa! About 15 min just because the red lights on 380
Definitely I'm real close to Melissa! About 15 min just because the red lights on 380
I just have a few concerns, but realize I haven't been doing this long enough to criticize, so they are only concerns.
Before finalizing the fitment of that bar, make sure you have full weight on those springs before welding or drilling anything. The pin idea is ok, but know this, it will be a PITA to remove and put in. You will want to jack up the truck (or even compress the springs) to help with removal and install. So I don't see them being a simple "jump out of the truck, remove, and jump back" kinda thing. I don't think the swaybar disconnect kits are that easy, since there's no end-link and no room for movement. And since I'm looking at doing something similar, I will recommend the use of a shackle like most of the anti-wrap bar kits come with. This will free up axle movement but continue to prevent wheel hop/ axle wrap.
Take it with a grain of sand
otherwise you're making great progress
Thanks for the info/help
All good and relative points
I'm definitely going to wait to mount the front mounts when the chassis is loaded. The pin idea is a last ditch idea on it but not final.
I'm sure before its all over I will have plenty of great ideas to help with it
That's why I love this site!
All good and relative points
I'm definitely going to wait to mount the front mounts when the chassis is loaded. The pin idea is a last ditch idea on it but not final.
I'm sure before its all over I will have plenty of great ideas to help with it
That's why I love this site!
Got the 2wd steering box and the jeep pitman arm in.
Took the pitman arm to the machine shop and he put the new taper on it so it would accept the Ballistic Fab tie rod end.
Took the pitman arm to the machine shop and he put the new taper on it so it would accept the Ballistic Fab tie rod end.
Started to layout the high steer kit. I will do some fuzzy math measurements to get it close enough that I can do the rest with adjustments to get me straight when its time for the alignment. This kit is bad to the bone. I really like all the material used and once I get the measurements that I need I will cut the tubing and have it all welded up.
The distance from the bottom of you steering box aka where the pitman arm attaches and where the drag link attaches.
Should be the same distance from the center of your king pin and where the drag link attaches to it.
So in other words I think you want to use the farthest out hole to attach the crossover arm to, and the steering rod to the closer ones. If that makes any sense.
Should be the same distance from the center of your king pin and where the drag link attaches to it.
So in other words I think you want to use the farthest out hole to attach the crossover arm to, and the steering rod to the closer ones. If that makes any sense.
That it does!
Really with the way the kit is made its about the only way to put it together and get it to work right.
It looks like it would bind any other way from what I am seeing.
Also the measurement from kingpin to kingpin is a great way to get that fuzzy number we are looking for
Really with the way the kit is made its about the only way to put it together and get it to work right.
It looks like it would bind any other way from what I am seeing.
Also the measurement from kingpin to kingpin is a great way to get that fuzzy number we are looking for
In the pictures you have them wrong though.
The drag link should be in the hole on the end of the arm.
The drag link should be in the hole on the end of the arm.
I sure did when I took the pics good catch!
When I took the measurements I put them in the correct location
When I took the measurements I put them in the correct location
Sorry about the mess in the background been thrashing!
here is a idea of what its going to look like.
About time to finish some small items and then take it all apart and commence project clean up.
here is a idea of what its going to look like.
About time to finish some small items and then take it all apart and commence project clean up.
Does anybody know if someone is making a repop of the rear trim piece that is at the tailgate and holds the carpet down.
I have one but like most its a little rough and I sprayed it with bedliner and it look a million time better but it is dented pretty good in some spots.
I have one but like most its a little rough and I sprayed it with bedliner and it look a million time better but it is dented pretty good in some spots.
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So on my build thread I have been running a little behind on the post just so it does not get too boring.
We took the rough draft all apart and off to the powder coater we went.
Took about a week to get it all back but here are a couple of pics
Since the truck is being painted the 1999 Gun Metal Grey I went with a silver vein powder coat on the frame rails and brackets and supports and gloss black on tow hitch and fuel tank skid plate and then went with a semi gloss on core support.
We took the rough draft all apart and off to the powder coater we went.
Took about a week to get it all back but here are a couple of pics
Since the truck is being painted the 1999 Gun Metal Grey I went with a silver vein powder coat on the frame rails and brackets and supports and gloss black on tow hitch and fuel tank skid plate and then went with a semi gloss on core support.
Since I had some CUCV stuff laying around I decided to use the CUCV Radiator and the core support. After we took the truck all apart and found the bent frame we also found that the core support was also damaged.
The 6.2 diesel radiator is larger and has more cooling capacity and thats always a good thing.
We have done this type of conversion before and it was amazing on how much it helped with cooling during the 100+ deg days we have here in the Lone Star State.
The 6.2 diesel radiator is larger and has more cooling capacity and thats always a good thing.
We have done this type of conversion before and it was amazing on how much it helped with cooling during the 100+ deg days we have here in the Lone Star State.
