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One Piece at a Time: My 1985 Diesel Suburban

The W on the others should match the Willomet script.
No disagreement.

One of the ongoing discussions that we had through this process was how much of the OE font and design incongruities do we maintain? The W sits where the Silverado starburst used to, but it is still in the theme of the Tron typeface. All this while the 1973 type face set on the back door all the way until 1987.

You could see this a few different ways, but I opted to maintain some of the original mismatching type face so the differences would go unnoticed until you got closer than 15 feet or so.

David
 
No disagreement.

One of the ongoing discussions that we had through this process was how much of the OE font and design incongruities do we maintain? The W sits where the Silverado starburst used to, but it is still in the theme of the Tron typeface. All this while the 1973 type face set on the back door all the way until 1987.

You could see this a few different ways, but I opted to maintain some of the original mismatching type face so the differences would go unnoticed until you got closer than 15 feet or so.

David
That's how I built my truck, from 15 feet away it looks like a normal lifted long bed, then you get close and see it's not just every other truck. I love when people go my dad had one just like it... I bet he did. :haha:
 
by getting into production, you mean making more than 1?
More that the parts need to get to laser and bending pronto. Gabe (the painter) might want one, so I'll see how easy this is to build.

David
 
It’s a trailer spindle. The lower end will be in double shear.

David
The cracking/breaking of trailer spindles so many of us have seen is due to welding and vibration. If the spindle was bolted instead of welded, that eliminates those stress risers and embrittlement. Or, a perfect TIG circle might eliminate it, I don't know. Since the far end is round tube, a circular cut-out for the tube to rest in could eliminate the up/down movement at that end as the De-Sta-Co clamp draws it in.
 
a circular cut-out for the tube to rest in could eliminate the up/down movement at that end as the De-Sta-Co clamp draws it in.
That’s exactly the plan. I’ll make a base profile in steel, and then a slider “cushion” in UHMW. I just need to mock it all up on the bumper first so I know the height. I’ll probably do a secondary slider cushion halfway toward the spindle from the latch.

This is the spindle:

Or, a perfect TIG circle might eliminate it, I don't know.
I’ll TIG this for sure using mild steel, which has better ductility than 4130. A hot weld cooled slowly should work well.

Vibration is high on my mind, which is why the whole tire is ratchet strapped to the frame and there’s no hub mount. I imagine 120 pounds of rubber oscillates at a frequency that’s just slightly different when left floating in space.

David
 
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So far my 10-bolt spindle that I welded to my bumper has held up.
Large bearings seem to be the ticket. The TMR one has 1/2 ton 2WD sized bearings, and your 10 bolt is larger still.

That looks amazing, very close to what I want.
It’s a regular GM code - 29/WA7349 - with very minor tweaks.

Color looks a lot like my 04 Yamaha FJR
Since it’s a factory mix, I bet they’re a toner adjustment from being identical.

David
 
Lots of good DC machine options out there. Everlast is a very high value for money. Get one with a cooler. An air cooled torch gets hot, quickly.
I run an Everlast multi function machine with the cooler. It's awesome! I second the recommendation for Everlast.
Any of you guys end up in Glendale at the stadium, let me know. I live about a mile from there...
I'm going to try to make it to Dino's this year with the Shop Truck. Hopefully I see all you guys there.
 

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