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operation 1 ton suburban...*Head Unit installed*

ok, so it's time to start workin on my rig again. I haven't done much since the build over the summer.... now that I'm off from work til feb. I'm going to take advantage of the free time I have now to work on the sub. so when spring rolls around I'll be able to make it out to more trips....
 
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You have a 241 in there right? Is going without a CV in the front going to work? If so, I might have to go that way too and save a buck or two.
 
desertrat67 said:
You have a 241 in there right? Is going without a CV in the front going to work? If so, I might have to go that way too and save a buck or two.
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yup 241, it should.... check out this thread http://www.offroad-tech.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2398&page=1&pp=20
tons of good info!


I got an qoute from jesse from HAD for a 1350 at both end non cv front shaft with 12" of travel. for $250 I think...
 




started working on the rig yesterday.

So, I've been wondering my truck has been running like crap for the past month... one ot the spark plug wires hit the manifold and burnd almost through the wire :eek1: so I've been running a V-7 lol....anyways, I put a new set of wires and gave it a tuneup and the truck runs nice and strong :D

so this afternoon I changed the shackle bushings. my front axle looked like it was pushed over to the pass side and it was... the shacke bolts lossened up'd alittle bit and the shackles were tilted way over to the pass side and the bushings were cracked on the driver side :eek1: no wonder my wobble came back last month... tomorrow, I'll finish the power steering pump and refill the rear diff..... and grease all of the bushings......


sometime this week I'm going to order some new shocks and D60 spring plates from WFO.... sure dosen't fell like I have 200,258 miles on it.....
 
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good work man! Maintainance is the least fun part of working on rigs but possibly the most important...
 
it sure is the most important part of keeping your rig toghter...

oh yeah, I fixed my side marker lights too.
also, my hubs weren't unlocking so I took them apart and cleaned them out and realized why they were not unlocking. I put the spring on the wrong side so they were always locked in. now they lock and unlock finally....
 
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I just ordered some new spring plates from WFO for the dana 60 with the offset holes already drilled... next thing to order is some new front shocks...
 
not really sure! I'm thinkin bilsteins 5100 or 5150.... or BBCS shocks from poly performance. but I may end up going with some es9000 shocks....
 
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I put the Bilstein 5100's on my truck this year. Awesome improvement, wish I had them all along. Buy'em!!!

I had a guy that knows a lot more than me measure and look up the valving for me, for my rig weight, and type of wheeling I do. Get the right valving. It took 2 months to get the specific part # shocks for the front, because they build them in lots.

You can always get the shocks, and change the valving later, of course.

I'll never order shocks by "length only" again.
 
the new power steering pump makes a huge difference, I can now turn the steering from lock to lock with ease again. Before I couldn't turn to the drivers side at all without some muscle.

the pulley remover broke off the grove were it connects to the pulley so it couldn't be removed via the pulley remover :mad: so the only way I could figure out how to take off the pulley off the pump to get to the stupid bolts was with some :grind::grind::grind: after that I pryed it off the shaft...


New additions:

1. new front shacke bushings (all ready have) - DONE
2. relocate the front axle 1.5" ( all ready have the 0rates installed)
3. new front spring plates. ORDERD should be here on the 2nd
4. new shocks.
5. HD diff covers front and rear
5. HD tie rod
6. transfer case clock ( all ready have the ring)
7. new x member ( all ready have the materials)
8. 205 32 spline yoke for the front output of the transfer case
9. new non cv 12" travel front drive shaft from HAD
10. hydro assist from blazen offroad
11. lockright for D60
12. 1350 pinion yoke for D60


maintenance:

 1. engine tuneup - DONE
2. tranny tuneup
3. reseal transfer case
4. new power steering pump - DONE
5. change rear diff fluid - DONE
6. regrease all of the bushings - DONE
7. Fix locking hubs - DONE


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there's a puller you can rent at vatozone and takes the pully right off, oh well maybe next time.
 
I know. I bought one from kragen. but the puller broke off the grove around the pulley. so there was no way for the pulley to come off the pump.... with out some :grind:
 
I do understand that it means "constant velocity", I also know that they held alleviate driveline vibrations due to excessive angles on the driveline. Thjis is a problem we all run into in the front of out trucks and i was wondering if the angle on the single joint was too much.
 
desertrat67 said:
I do understand that it means "constant velocity", I also know that they held alleviate driveline vibrations due to excessive angles on the driveline. Thjis is a problem we all run into in the front of out trucks and i was wondering if the angle on the single joint was too much.
Click to expand...
http://www.4xshaft.com/index.html
There's a good explaination.
 
willyswanter is running a non cv front shaft. and he has some crazy amount of flex. granted he's running a hi pinion D60 to help with the angles... but he's had no problems with his non cv front shaft. this thread has pretty much made me go with a non cv front shaft. and if it vibes it vibes... I'm not going to be driving 65mph out on the dirt anyways.

http://www.offroad-tech.com/forum/sh...8&page=1&pp=20

plus, going to a non cv front shaft has less moving parts and should bind less than a cv front shaft.... plus droping $500+ on a HAD front shaft is out of the question for me. I rather go with a non cv shaft for $250 with 12.5" of travel 1350 joints on each end.... also that's why I'm moving my front axle 1.5" forward..... to help with the angels some what.
 
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