Hey, at least it's a step.
CK5
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Phil's '88 Big Blue Build Thread
- Thread starter Phil513
- Start date
Dude this is a good looking rig! Way to go! I like that split with the matching bumpers, never seen it done like that, usually all are chrome bumpers..
Thank you! I was a little worried how it would look, with so much white, but it came out ok I think.
So, I think I have landed on a plan.
Clean up the 14 bolt, put in a detroit locker.
Change my 10 bolt to 8 lug, regear to 4:10 to match the 14 bolt.
Buy these wheels ( @82355 these have 4" backspacing, is that what you meant?). Maybe put caps on like @dremu did.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/usw-70-5880/overview/
I can use my practically new tires, with some caliper grinding.
I think that is the most cost effective way for me. I have to move the spring plates on the 14 bolt, but I think I can handle that.
I have to see what is entailed as far as my rear U-joint going to the 14 bolt. I know they have conversion ones, but I may not need it, apparently some trucks with the SM465 had different ones than automatics, but I'm not sure. And not sure about driveshaft length, maybe what I lost with the lift I'll gain back with the longer snout on the 14 bolt?
I guess my only question at this point is, since I have the new spartan locker I was going to put in the rear 10 bolt, should I just put it in the front one? Or would I be asking for breakage and steering headaches in the front?
At least now I think I have a direction! It won't happen fast, but at least I won't spend any more money going down a different road.
Clean up the 14 bolt, put in a detroit locker.
Change my 10 bolt to 8 lug, regear to 4:10 to match the 14 bolt.
Buy these wheels ( @82355 these have 4" backspacing, is that what you meant?). Maybe put caps on like @dremu did.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/usw-70-5880/overview/
I can use my practically new tires, with some caliper grinding.
I think that is the most cost effective way for me. I have to move the spring plates on the 14 bolt, but I think I can handle that.
I have to see what is entailed as far as my rear U-joint going to the 14 bolt. I know they have conversion ones, but I may not need it, apparently some trucks with the SM465 had different ones than automatics, but I'm not sure. And not sure about driveshaft length, maybe what I lost with the lift I'll gain back with the longer snout on the 14 bolt?
I guess my only question at this point is, since I have the new spartan locker I was going to put in the rear 10 bolt, should I just put it in the front one? Or would I be asking for breakage and steering headaches in the front?
At least now I think I have a direction! It won't happen fast, but at least I won't spend any more money going down a different road.
I might us a conversion joint for now, and make the drive shaft right later. I would ask a shop how much to fix the shaft first. Probably did correct the length
Based on how you talk, I'm thinking you would be ok locked in the front. Are the splines the same?
It does become more difficult to steer. Are you crossed over?
Based on how you talk, I'm thinking you would be ok locked in the front. Are the splines the same?
It does become more difficult to steer. Are you crossed over?
It's weird, the pinion nut on mine was bigger than all the ones in the videos on how to change a pinion seal. In fact, I think the bolts for the yoke caps were bigger too. I did read where the 465 trucks had different u-joints, so we'll see, either way its no big deal.
Yes, I have 28 spline axles front and rear, so it should go in fine. I have push pull for now. Crossover would be down the road if I do it.
All this won't be done by Blazer Bash, so I'm thinking of putting the locker just in the front before then. Which would be weird, but better than nothing.
You will have to strong arm it in a few places. How and where you approach can alleviate a lot.
But you already bought the locker. You will be ok open front if the rear is locked. Run it or sell it
But you already bought the locker. You will be ok open front if the rear is locked. Run it or sell it
Why would you take the front apart (to install the locker) without also doing the regearing at the same time? That seems redundant.
Go measure that yoke on the 14bolt. Make sure it's not a 1410 - there aren't any 1310 1410 conversion yokes. I got caught on that one...
I just did this, it's a 1310-1350 joint and spicer makes one, I'll get the part number, if the joint on there now measures over 4 inches it's a 1410 if it's 3 5/8 and the caps are 1.88 then that's a 1350 the small side will be like 3 1/2 and the same cap size. No caliper grinding needed with the d44/10b 8 lug.
Alright, I have a question about the pinion yoke on my Suburban. I disconnected the driveshaft and measured 3 5/8" from cap to cap. Went to my new rear axle (14bff from a 1997 G3500 Van), and measured the same width and cap dimensions. 1350 U-joint on each of them, so I simply bolted up my stock K10 driveshaft and drove away.
I hear around here that 1/2-ton rigs should have the smaller 1310 joints, and that a conversion joint will be needed, but that's not what I found, so I'm confused. Is my 1350 driveshaft the oddball thing here, or is having a 1350 yoke instead of a 1410 yoke the weird part?
Rockauto and Autozone both list the same ACDELCO 45U0103 U-joint for the van and suburban applications (1350 size). What am I missing here? Why does Phil need a conversion joint when I didn't?
http://www.driveshaftspecialist.com/HTML Measure/UJ ID Guide.html
http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...iesel,1299731,drivetrain,universal+joint,2392
http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...7l+v8,1046944,drivetrain,universal+joint,2392
http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=356821&cc=1046944&jsn=452
My understanding is that the 4wd got 1410's. But that could vary...
I would look for a complete 4.10 10 bolt 8 lug axle before I spent the money regearing and swapping the outers on the one you have.
Because I might take the axle out and take it in and have it regeared. I figure it's better if the locker is in there when they get it. I don't know why I figure that, but there it is. lol
I don't know, either. If you have a carrier-replacement style locker it would be easier to just mount up your new gears and leave the old gears on the open diff. Save some work.
But there are lots of ways of solving this problem. Have fun and keep breaking stuff!
I thought Moab fever was doing a 36-hour wrenchfest the night before Blazer Bash.
If he gets Moab fever badly enough I'm sure the axles will get installed with time to spare.
And not to be the voice of M.A.W. here (
), but if you're going to regear, have you thought about grabbing deeper gears than the 4.10s you have? Or is that just crazy talk?
), but if you're going to regear, have you thought about grabbing deeper gears than the 4.10s you have? Or is that just crazy talk?
And not to be the voice of M.A.W. here (
Nah, 4:10s is plenty with my 35's. About 2500 rpm at 65, I wouldn't want it higher than that, I drive on the freeway a lot. Right now its about 2150 or so with the 3:42s, which is actually nice if freeway was all I did. lol.
The 14 bolt has 4:10s anyway, part of the attraction is only having to regear 1 axle.
And as for the front, like I said, there is no way this is happening before BB. So, I either go open front and rear, or put it in the front. I'm certainly not going with 4:10 in the front and 3:42 in the rear.
It's more of a compound malfunction, enlisting "I need this for Moab", MAW, and "Aw $&@% I need this too thrash"I thought Moab fever was doing a 36-hour wrenchfest the night before Blazer Bash.
If he gets Moab fever badly enough I'm sure the axles will get installed with time to spare.
