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Pics of my Dana 60 14BFF Install

Here is a shot of the passenger side cooler mounted. This is the tranny cooler. I took a side shot of the truck. It is completely hidden. I need to pull it back off and paint it and then install the driver side engine oil cooler. Drilling all these holes in the frame has kicked my azz tonight.

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I guess my question would be why not turn the coolers over so the fan is on the top I would think the mount would give it plenty of protection.
 
kgblazerfive said:
I guess my question would be why not turn the coolers over so the fan is on the top I would think the mount would give it plenty of protection.
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Actually, the fan provides the most protection to the fins. Mounted the other way, ALL of the fins are exposed and the fan would be hidden as far as access to wash it out or any visual inspection without taking it all off. These brushless motors are really tuff as far as mud and water are concerned. I like to be able to stop after running it aggressively and actually be able to look at the fan to make sure it is working correctly. Remember, these are little and dont make the noise that the big radiator fans do.
 
That's pretty trick, I like the idea of it. It seems like it would be better than trying to plumb all of the lines up through the engine bay and stuff, and cutting down on the clutter with that big motor you got up there
 
Don't the coolers seem kind of exposed? I'd imagine you would be pretty hosed should either cooler be punctured. Also what fans are those and how are they wired up to the thermostats? Is it a self contained unit?
 
If I tear these off, the truck will be broken in half. They are 3" above the bottom of the frame rail. I have two more pieces that I haven't installed yet that is part of the shielding that I built. The lines will be totally protected and above the frame rails and away from all traditional heat sources. I am not advocating that this is "the best" way to do it for ALL applications....but I think it will work great for what I am doing with the truck. As you guys know....there are many ways to do this stuff and this is just one way. I just have a little more motor than most setups have and I want it to work idleing around in 100 degree temps with the AC on. I am also building all my systems (Cooling, fuel, oil cooling etc) to handle more hp if I put a whipple on this setup later. If I do, it will be around 900hp and over a 1000ft/lbs of torque. The coolers are made by B&M and they are a preassembled unit with the thermostat. They also have Spal fans. The reason that I went with these is that B&M were the only ones that I could find in this size that had 1/2"npt inlets which you have to have to keep from necking down #10 hose. My engine oil system is plumbed in #10. The tranny is #8. I changed the factory tranny inlets and outlets to custom #8 inlets and outlets that are true #8 all the way through. That is almost 3 times the size of the factory fitting. In any plumbing system no matter what it is, you can only flow what your smallest fitting is.
 
I think DrkZides concern was something (a log or branch comes to mind) "popping" up into the floorboard and smashing it.

I actually had the same thought...
 
I could be wrong, but i doubt this thing is gunna see a lot of trail time or much of anything that will actually put those coolers at risk. Im thinking that for the 95% street time that this thing see's, that is probably the best place for them.
 
Here they are drilled painted and installed. I have the lines stubbed up getting ready to plumb them. The tranny is the smaller fittings.

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Is dirt or debris and issue at all with the coolers placed here? I live in Iowa and always think what will road salt or the liquid sh*t they use do to my stuff. I hate it. I love your truck and can't wait to see and hear it running:waytogo:.
 
THUNDERUSONE said:
My engine oil system is plumbed in #10. The tranny is #8. I changed the factory tranny inlets and outlets to custom #8 inlets and outlets that are true #8 all the way through. That is almost 3 times the size of the factory fitting. In any plumbing system no matter what it is, you can only flow what your smallest fitting is.
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Excellent work, it's looking good and going to work great. I agree on the smallest fitting deal, but I have a question, how did you find a fitting that goes into the trans case that does not neck down to less than a -6 AN? I could find fittings in #8 from Sweets for my 2000 model 4L80E I am putting in my car, but where the fitting actually went into the block was still a -6, so putting a -8 hose end on it was not really beneficial.

However, there is arguement that although fluid is not compressible, it can speed up in if the restriction is short and there is enough pump to push it through at the increased velocity, and there may be a pressure drop on the other side.

Anyway, just wondering if you actually found fittings that were -8 all the way through? Although the 97 and up fittings are different than the 96 and earlier 4L80E fittings.
 
folkenheath said:
Excellent work, it's looking good and going to work great. I agree on the smallest fitting deal, but I have a question, how did you find a fitting that goes into the trans case that does not neck down to less than a -6 AN? I could find fittings in #8 from Sweets for my 2000 model 4L80E I am putting in my car, but where the fitting actually went into the block was still a -6, so putting a -8 hose end on it was not really beneficial.

However, there is arguement that although fluid is not compressible, it can speed up in if the restriction is short and there is enough pump to push it through at the increased velocity, and there may be a pressure drop on the other side.

Anyway, just wondering if you actually found fittings that were -8 all the way through? Although the 97 and up fittings are different than the 96 and earlier 4L80E fittings.
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It is because mine is a 91 4L80E. Mine are 2 short fittings just alike. #8 all the way through. Another trick is to use stainless fittings and drill them out. I have had to go from #10 to 3/8npt. I took a stainless 3/8NPT male to #10 male JIC and drilled it out to #10 all the way through. The stainless is strong enough that it won't break when you stand on it to tighten it. I have had aluminum fittings break if you drill them out.
 
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THUNDERUSONE said:
It is because mine is a 91 4L80E. Mine are 2 short fittings just alike. #8 all the way through. Another trick is to use stainless fittings and drill them out. I have had to go from #10 to 3/8npt. I took a stainless 3/8NPT male to #10 male JIC and drilled it out to #10 all the way through. The stainless is strong enough that it won't break when you stand on it to tighten it. I have had aluminum fittings break if you drill them out.
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That is definitely the difference, if I drilled my rear fitting out there would be nothing left of the part that protrudes into the case. Although I feel like the front one would be extremely thin if it was -8 all the way through.
 
Here is the radiator going in. I gotta make a little bit of modification for the top mounts. It looks good and I am loving all the clearance!:D

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That there is perty....... I may have to catch you rolling around, once you get her done, just to see what she sounds like.
 
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