Thanks Mang!
So.... What are my best rattle an options for priming and top Coat? Can I use the zinc Chromate (aka Ryoken Green) as my primer for this process??
-G
CK5
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POR-15 questions
- Thread starter Flick RRMC
- Start date
Thanks Mang!
So.... What are my best rattle an options for priming and top Coat? Can I use the zinc Chromate (aka Ryoken Green) as my primer for this process??
-G
sure, scuff up the iron tannite good, piss coat of RG, throw some topcoat on...
I usually just wipe the iron tannite down when it fully dries with lacquer thinner before I scuff it...
I usually just wipe the iron tannite down when it fully dries with lacquer thinner before I scuff it...
So.....skip the water neutralizing rinse, and just substitute with a lacquer thinner wipe down instead? Getting underneath with a garden hose is going to make a real mess of my workspace....so if I can substitute the lacquer thinner (will that also neutralize the phosphoric acid?) then the whole process is going to be a lot cleaner / faster to do.
-G
-G
oh, I still rinse right after treating, I just meant to thinner it once it's dried before I sand/scuff it.. just ensures in my brain that nothing is on it prior...
for a rinse right after I use a soapy ammonia solution... like 1/3 ammonia, 2/3 water and a good squirt of dishsoap/detergent.... once you scrub it a bit with that.. rinse with fresh water...
maybe do that aspect outside, than bring it in?
for a rinse right after I use a soapy ammonia solution... like 1/3 ammonia, 2/3 water and a good squirt of dishsoap/detergent.... once you scrub it a bit with that.. rinse with fresh water...
maybe do that aspect outside, than bring it in?
To be any good at all, you have to coat the entire thing (whatever you're working on) with POR. Any edges just let the rust creep underneath. I have had it hold up like 5 years on a tie rod-that's the best I've ever gotten. For bodywork it's almost worthless unless you can coat the entire car. Yeah, it's better than rattle can primer, but for the same money there are better solutions. POR makes you buy the cleaner, etcher, base and top coats and it adds up to a lot of $$. It still peels off in sheets a couple/few years down the road. The only good things are that you can brush it on with no respirator and it kind of self-levels. So it's a nice way to make your trailer frame look nice after you build it, but it's not going to hold up on a rust-belt car. It's really just a water-cured urethane and you can find similar chemicals for way less money.
good description.... tho I would tend to describe it as a "moisture cured urethane".....
