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Power Window Idea <--- IT WORKS

Not off hand....however they were used on the passenger side of the firewall and under the radiator surge tank on all FL60/70/80 models. All one needs is the last 6 numbers of the vin number from said style truck and or have the counterman use his card index file to grab a vin number to use under section 54 (electrical).

The frieghtliner issue ones are like that of the jegs picture...

DW
 
I definately want to try the power window mod.... I have tried everything except this... if it works I will be so happy!!!!!

thanks
Mike
 
I definately want to try the power window mod.... I have tried everything except this... if it works I will be so happy!!!!!

thanks
Mike
Will only work if your switches are worn so bad they impede the flow of current.

You could buy a DEI 451M autolock relay and use it for your windows if you wanted to. In contains 2 relays in one box and cost between $5-10.
I think this is more like one of those ram air filters where you THINK things are better but in reality its exactly the same.
 
Will only work if your switches are worn so bad they impede the flow of current.

You could buy a DEI 451M autolock relay and use it for your windows if you wanted to. In contains 2 relays in one box and cost between $5-10.
I think this is more like one of those ram air filters where you THINK things are better but in reality its exactly the same.

Even with brand new switches, the GM power windows were slow. The biggest restriction is the small wiring installed from the factory and switches that don't hold up well with 20 years of use. The biggest improvement from this mod is the running of larger wires for better current flow to feed the relays. But, just running new wires to the existing switch would do nearly the same improvement.
 
I think this is more like one of those ram air filters where you THINK things are better but in reality its exactly the same.

Go back and look at my posts #57 and #60. I posted real numbers showing 41% faster window speed. The passenger side motor receives 63% more power (11.5V instead of 9V) and that's through the PS switch. The improvement from the driver's seat is even higher.

This improvement is about half from bypassing the stock switches and half from the heavy wiring to the relays.
 
subscribed......will have to do this to the new project. Doing the swap anyways, might as well upgrade.
 
ANyone doing this mod , can you get some good pics and a diagram. That first pic is hard to tell, looks like the two relays get jumped together? And looks like one blade is not used?
 
Dont know if it was mentioned or not, im too lazy to read the whole thread but could this be done to the tailgate window?? Mines so slowwwwwwww.
 
ANyone doing this mod , can you get some good pics and a diagram. That first pic is hard to tell, looks like the two relays get jumped together? And looks like one blade is not used?

This is the wiring diagram I made... the trick is having both relays defaulting to ground and the relay only switches one half of the circuit from ground to power when the switch is activated.

PW wiring.JPG
 
My windows (passenger side specifically) have really started to slow down and i've been contemplating this mod for awhile but hadn't seen a GOOD wiring diagram but this one seems to be very good. Looks like i'll have to dive into this project sometime sooner than later.
 
I do mechanical design/drafting for a living but electronics is a hobby... so it was fairly easy to put together. I had some pics posted in my variation of this mod too (freightliner switches mounted in the center of the dash). But, the truck was totaled before I finished the project.
 
I'm assuming that the window switches are to the far left with the 1 2 3 4 5 6 and 1 2 5 6 numbering?
 
This is the wiring diagram I made... the trick is having both relays defaulting to ground and the relay only switches one half of the circuit from ground to power when the switch is activated.

I appreciate that diagram, but its more confusing than a NY city subway system.

Id like to see a write up that goes like this for exampe; " Cut White wire and plug into 87 on the relay, cut brown wire and plug into 85. Run a jumper wire from 86 to 86 and then to ground" etc etc.

Most of us arent engineers and your diagram looks great, If your an engineer, lol.
 
I'm assuming that the window switches are to the far left with the 1 2 3 4 5 6 and 1 2 5 6 numbering?

Yes, that is correct. I believe I pulled those numbers off of an S10 wiring diagram though so I don't remember if they are used on the full size switches. A little testing with a multimeter would be needed if they are not numbered the same.
 
I appreciate that diagram, but its more confusing than a NY city subway system.

Id like to see a write up that goes like this for exampe; " Cut White wire and plug into 87 on the relay, cut brown wire and plug into 85. Run a jumper wire from 86 to 86 and then to ground" etc etc.

Most of us arent engineers and your diagram looks great, If your an engineer, lol.

I can't give you that writeup since I didn't use the stock wiring or switches to do my rewire job.
 
A black dot where the wires cross indicates a connection, if the lines cross without a black dot they are NOT connected.
 
The left side of the diagram is the factory setup, the right side is the modification with relays.
 
Dont know if it was mentioned or not, im too lazy to read the whole thread but could this be done to the tailgate window?? Mines so slowwwwwwww.

Yes it was, yes you are and yes it can. :D

But the wiring is different from the side windows - simpler overall. But the key will be to run a length of 8gauge wire the whole length of the truck and into the tailgate.
 

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