What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Power Window Idea <--- IT WORKS

I'd err on the side of caution and run larger wire like 10 or 12. To small and you risk starting a nice weenie roast.
 
The driver here is voltage drop. Any wire big enough to avoid losing much voltage is more than safe for the current.
 
Ok, bringing this BTT with a question as well.

I understand installing the relays in the related doors for the shortest amount of wire run but does this still only require 4 relays to do both doors even though the master switch on the drivers side has the control for passenger side as well, (I guess what I want to know is will doing the passenger side cure the driver side switch for the passenger side also)?
 
Cool thanks. Going to attemp this mod in 2 weeks, i'll gather all my pieces between now and then.

Do the relays need to have a resistor in them or no resistor? Also would a 30amp circuit breaker be better than using a 30amp fuse?
 
Last edited:
4X4HIGH said:
Also would a 30amp circuit breaker be better than using a 30amp fuse?
Click to expand...

Depends on whether you plan to exceed 30 amps... :rolleyes:

If you never exceed 30 amps, a circuit breaker would be a waste. But you don't have to blow many fuses before you appreciate having a breaker. :)
 
Resistor? Do you mean diode? You don't need either. I think a power window motor is a good application for a circuit breaker, but a fuse would be OK, too. Typically breakers have lugs which lend themselves to solid connections, where in-line fuse holders are often sucky. Don't suburbans put all 4 windows on 1 30A fuse?
 
So are people using the stock wiring from the motor to the relay? The originator of this post looks like he did. I just started this project today only to find out I needed a few other small items that i'll pick up tomorrow. I'm planning on running 12ga wiring from the junction block on the firewall to the relays and of course a new 12ga ground wire also (probably directly from the battery).
 
I used the stock wiring from the relays to the motor when I did this. I also used the stock wiring from the switches to the relays. I ran new 12ga wiring like you say to the relay for power.
 
I ran 10, cuz I have ton's of it around.. :haha:

I usually have a bunch of 10, 14 and 18.. but not often I have 12 kicking around..
 
The stall current for stock window motors is 15 amps and the wire length isn't long enough to warrant larger gauge wire.
 
Where have people been running the ground from the relay to? I'm thinking battery is best but what about the ground buss on the left side on the A-pillar area?
 
4X4HIGH said:
Where have people been running the ground from the relay to? I'm thinking battery is best but what about the ground buss on the left side on the A-pillar area?
Click to expand...



that's exactly where I ran mine, the grd buss... figured I was up in there running the power wire anyway...
 
Ok, so I finished the passenger side window as that was the really slow window. I checked for voltage drop to the ground bar and there was NONE so that is where I ran my ground wire from for the relays. I also checked for any voltage drop at the junction block on the firewall and once again there was NONE so that is where my HOT wire is coming from for the relays.

I did this a little different just because and here's a pic of where I mounted relays and junction block (the different part). I also checked before and after times for the window to go down and up, original set-up took 5.66 seconds to go down and 4.81 seconds to go up, after this Mod it took 3.65 seconds to go down and 2.80 seconds to go up. Not bad, thats about 35% quicker going down and about 42% quicker going up.

I also checked to see what the amp draw of the motor was after the mod was done and it is between 5-6 amps and when you reach either direction fully it jumps to 17.2 amps just incase anyone was curious so they could use an appropriate sized fuse or circuit breaker.

Window relay Mod.jpg
 
4X4HIGH said:
Ok, so I finished the passenger side window as that was the really slow window. I checked for voltage drop to the ground bar and there was NONE so that is where I ran my ground wire from for the relays. I also checked for any voltage drop at the junction block on the firewall and once again there was NONE so that is where my HOT wire is coming from for the relays.
Click to expand...
But how was the window motor drawing current through those points while you were measuring? It sounds like you measured before you put the window wiring there, so what was pulling current while you measured?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom