Nice….
Ever had a jack all handle smack you in the face!? I have, hurts! I never let go of the handle after that lesson.
CK5
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Private Pyle
- Thread starter mudmobeeler
- Start date
Ever had a jack all handle smack you in the face!? I have, hurts! I never let go of the handle after that lesson.
So Ive been looking at new tires, Id like to stick with a 33 and 4 inch lift for now. I would also like to run a 10 ply tire, I run dirt roads a lot and in pastures etc. Ill also be pulling a small 12 foot trailer and just want good tires. In doing so it looks like I need to switch to a 17 inch rim, which I am fine with doing so Ive been looking at just basic, cheap but hopefully still decent rims and have pretty much settled on the Pro Comp 97 Series Rock Crawler rim in a 17x9. The ones Ive been looking at have a backspacing of 4.25. I currently have the 8 inch wide rims that I believe have a 4 inch backspacing running a 33x12.50. Id like the rims/tires to stick out a little bit more but not a lot. I don't want to be throwing rocks up and hitting the body/busting mirrors.
Those rims sound good?
Those rims sound good?
Want to sell your stock wheels?
Martin
Martin
I most likely will yes. I have four that are matching in the green assuming powder coated. The spare is not green. Id be selling all 5 though. Do you just want rims or rims and tires?
Here was the culprit for the flat.
And I was able to pop most of the dent out fairly easily. Could use a little more work but I’m not too worried about it.
looks like you popped it out pretty good
Before…
After…finally got the mirrors and locks installed. The passenger side picture was from the other day before I was finished. Finished it up this afternoon and done the driver side.
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Rims and tires also were ordered today.
One wheel came Tuesday and the other four arrived yesterday.
Tires arrived today!
Got the tires mounted today and on the blazer. I somewhat wish they stuck out a little more. But I also don’t mind the look as they won’t throw as much stuff up on the side and/or bust mirrors. The are also really close to rubbing up front when turned so wider would probably rubbed for sure. Need to order shackle flip kit for the rear, longer shackles, shocks, etc and get it lifted 4 inches right now.
I’ve also thought about just doing new body bushings and an ORD one inch body lift for now and see how that works. The bushings and body lift were in the over all plan eventually anyways.
I also went to install the leds for the front turn signals/running lights and broke one. So I’ll have to order another one.
I did get one installed though. I also have leds for the side marker lights and the flasher module(s) for the leds yet to install.
I have led bulbs in the rear but would like to buy the complete new housing deal that are LEDs. Sometime soon.
So the batteries are dead again, I'm hoping they will take a charge and be fine. I need to buy a battery charger. I broke out the multi meter to test the alternators and make sure they were charging. It had a dead battery so I replaced it and it was acting funny. So I bought a new cheap multi meter from Napa. I don't use them that often and I hate electrical crap. I'm USUALLY ok IF i can find a schematic but even then I still hate anything electrical. I did test the alternators though and one seemed to be only putting out barely 11 volts and the other one around 8. I need to make sure the belts are tight but I am looking at swapping to a serpentine belt set up off of a 6.5. I'm still on the search for one of those though. Whenever I find one I plan to buy a new alternator for that set up so I hate to buy two new alternators now. I'm also planning on converting it to 12 volt from 24 volt at the same time.
Since the blazer would be setting I ended up pulling the rims and tires off of it and put on my 90 Suburban to drive it some and hopefully facilitate selling it. Well it is supposedly sold, some people looked at it last Sunday and put a deposit down and are planning to return this weekend to pay me the rest and pick it up. But he doesn't want the rims and tires so I will pull them back off and put them back on the blazer for now and I dropped the price of the Suburban accordingly.
I'm looking at another truck which by all of the pictures Id 100 percent sure say its an M1008. But the guy lists it as just a Chevy 3/4 ton and doesn't say anything about it being an M1008, or ex military, or anything else to that nature. The pictures don't show the front axle enough for me to confirm it to be a Dana 60 but one picture shows the hub and I'd say it does appear to be a 60 based off that. Ive been trying to meet up with him but so far our schedules haven't worked out. If I can get it bought and it does still have the 60/14 bolt then I might be looking at one ton swapping the blazer a lot sooner than planned.
So I've been looking at lift parts. The plan is a DIY4x A-Bomb/Moab bumper up front and a DIY4x shackle flip in the rear with some of their cross tied shackles. I would like to do the 52/56 spring swap at that time also. My question is do I go ahead and buy some custom leaves from ORD (which is kind of the end game anyways) or just use the rear 52s up front for now and source some 56s from somewhere. I think the ORD custom leaves would be the way to go just more $$ now. I do have some 56s from my 89 "crawler" Suburban that are still in it I could steal. Or possibly the springs out of the m1008 and pull some springs from the pack. I'm also going to purchase a one inch body lift and new body bushings from ORD soon.
Since the blazer would be setting I ended up pulling the rims and tires off of it and put on my 90 Suburban to drive it some and hopefully facilitate selling it. Well it is supposedly sold, some people looked at it last Sunday and put a deposit down and are planning to return this weekend to pay me the rest and pick it up. But he doesn't want the rims and tires so I will pull them back off and put them back on the blazer for now and I dropped the price of the Suburban accordingly.
I'm looking at another truck which by all of the pictures Id 100 percent sure say its an M1008. But the guy lists it as just a Chevy 3/4 ton and doesn't say anything about it being an M1008, or ex military, or anything else to that nature. The pictures don't show the front axle enough for me to confirm it to be a Dana 60 but one picture shows the hub and I'd say it does appear to be a 60 based off that. Ive been trying to meet up with him but so far our schedules haven't worked out. If I can get it bought and it does still have the 60/14 bolt then I might be looking at one ton swapping the blazer a lot sooner than planned.
So I've been looking at lift parts. The plan is a DIY4x A-Bomb/Moab bumper up front and a DIY4x shackle flip in the rear with some of their cross tied shackles. I would like to do the 52/56 spring swap at that time also. My question is do I go ahead and buy some custom leaves from ORD (which is kind of the end game anyways) or just use the rear 52s up front for now and source some 56s from somewhere. I think the ORD custom leaves would be the way to go just more $$ now. I do have some 56s from my 89 "crawler" Suburban that are still in it I could steal. Or possibly the springs out of the m1008 and pull some springs from the pack. I'm also going to purchase a one inch body lift and new body bushings from ORD soon.
52’s are the longest i would go in the front. The 56’s get a little sloppy if you plan on driving this thing on the street.
52’s up front and 64’s in the rear is an excellent combo. I currently have that in my K5 and it’s been great! Make sure you plan on cross over steering if you haven’t already and I recommend ORD’s swaybar with the disconnect option.
The A bomb or the b52 kit is awesome for the front, very adjustable and really beefy. With those you don’t need to relocate the rear spring mount. I also prefer DIY4X’s front spring eye hanger since it’s designed around using a 2.5” leaf. 6” shackles on the front should pull your caster back into spec. I also ran a zero rate up front to push the axle forward an extra inch to stretch the wheelbase a bit and help with tire clearance and the fender well. I would plan on doing the F250 shock towers during this if you were planning on it at some point.
DIY4X’s long spring bracket for the rear is excellent and either DIY4x or ORD shackle flip.
Don’t forget brake lines!! And your driveshafts might get to be too short
52’s up front and 64’s in the rear is an excellent combo. I currently have that in my K5 and it’s been great! Make sure you plan on cross over steering if you haven’t already and I recommend ORD’s swaybar with the disconnect option.
The A bomb or the b52 kit is awesome for the front, very adjustable and really beefy. With those you don’t need to relocate the rear spring mount. I also prefer DIY4X’s front spring eye hanger since it’s designed around using a 2.5” leaf. 6” shackles on the front should pull your caster back into spec. I also ran a zero rate up front to push the axle forward an extra inch to stretch the wheelbase a bit and help with tire clearance and the fender well. I would plan on doing the F250 shock towers during this if you were planning on it at some point.
DIY4X’s long spring bracket for the rear is excellent and either DIY4x or ORD shackle flip.
Don’t forget brake lines!! And your driveshafts might get to be too short
Yeah, I should've specified, 52s up front 56s in the rear.
Please dont take this response as being an a$$hole, I probably didnt explain my thoughts enough. This was meant more of whats peoples thoughts on doing the custom ORD springs now vs the stock 52s from the rear up front and finding stock 56s to put in the rear with a shackle flip. Ive already talked to Kert on the shackle flip kit as I was wanting to have something custom cut into it instead of the DIY4X logo. If i went with custom springs I guess my question would be stay with roughly 4 inches of lift or go to 5 or 6? I was leaning towards 4 or 5 inches of suspension lift, the one inch body lift and new body bushings, and 35s or maybe 37 inch tall tires. If i went with 37s - 40s I would just trim the body as needed. I was already planning on cutting the rear quarter panels and wrap the bumper around for protection. Up front I was leaning towards the Moab bumper but slightly different and I havent talked to Kert about it yet but want it similar to what he already does and wrap around the sides up front, obviously cutting the front fangs off the fenders.
I have the DIY4x upper spring hanger for the rear of the front springs already and some of their longer shackles. Some ORD longer brake lines for up to 6 inch lift, another ez inch and degree shims for a the Dana 60 (not installed), some 2 inch lift 52s, an ORD shackle flip with their 6 inch shackle, stock 56 inch 3/4 ton rear springs with an ez inch and one tons installed in the "crawler" Suburban that I could rob parts from and/or sell. Im seriously considering stripping the parts/selling parts/selling the entire thing as is and buying tubing to make a crawler instead of the Suburban. A buddy has a bender and welder and hes talking about ditching his current crawler for more buggy. Some of the places I would be going would destroy the body if you wanted to actually participate.
I'm just wanting a decent driver with most of the body still in tack that I can go to places and not "purposely destroy the body" with this blazer.
Just for reference this is the “crawler” burb I can rob parts from/sell. I put it in quotes cause it’s far from being done. It was my daily for a while but had alot of rust and I decided to just make it a toy instead.
The ORD springs are the better option if it’s in your budget. You tell them what you want to do with the truck and what mods you have that affect your weight and they change the spring rate based on your input.
Yeah, the budget now might nix them lol.
Finally bought a battery charger and charged the batteries back up, got it started and pulled over by the shop door. Got the rims and tires back on it. I miss driving this thing. Need to get to work on it and figure out the charging issue.
