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Project 82 TCBF -10.13.9 - progress!!!

Gotta give a little to get a little. A couple pics of unistrut? Com'on!

Though I will question how the strut is going to support the floor?
 
fireplug said:
Gotta give a little to get a little. A couple pics of unistrut? Com'on!

Though I will question how the strut is going to support the floor?
Click to expand...
Well, the problem was that we either didn`t use thick enough sheet metal, or just plain out didn`t strengthen it, so the back of the floor flexes...so i`m using it to tie the new sheet metal in the back, to the existing floor pan towards the front, that was originally in the rig..I`m hoping it will help strengthen it up a little....
 
ahhh so the unistrut will span the old on both sides and the patch panel? Cool, I had been under the impression that you replace the whole panel.

This will require drilling though right? Why not just weld some strap or angle to the underside?
 
fireplug said:
ahhh so the unistrut will span the old on both sides and the patch panel? Cool, I had been under the impression that you replace the whole panel.

This will require drilling though right? Why not just weld some strap or angle to the underside?
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Well, I could, but this is much easier for me. I will use two of the existing holes for the seats, then drill 1 or two more, for each strut...
 
Alright guys, here`s the deal. My money situation has changed quite a bit, so its forcing me to make some changes, for the better of course. Now I know that this build has gone through ALOT of changes, but this IS the last one, and I want you guys to know that. No more changes, the plan is carved in stone. Please forgive me for misleading, or pulling anyone around here....With that said, here goes nothing.

Due to the financial situation I`m in, I decided that not only would this route be alot cheaper, but will also make for a better performing rig. Here`s whats happening. I know how some of you fell about used tires, but these tires have been looked at, and they are weared as even as can be. The tires in question are (4) 35x12.5r15 TrxUs MT Radials with about 65% tread, which I`ll be purchasing from a member on another board, for $250. Now I chose to purchase those for these reasons. As many have said, it would be wise to grab them because 1) They`re great tires! 2) Can be used for quite some time still and 3) Can allow me to use what extra money I have on other parts.

Now, axles. I will be picking up a front axle from a local member on the board. So, for $150, I`m getting an 8 lug 10b axle, Yukon 4.56 gears, MM hubs, all new ball joints/u joints, Lockright locker, for $150. I haven`t decided yet, but, I may either have a 14bsf built up, or get a cucv axle.

Now, that puts me at about $400, for tires, and a front axle. Now, I have a lead on some 15x8 8 lugs, which will put me at about $450, that is, if I decide to get a cucv axle, which would then put me anywhere from $900-$1000, which I can safely say I have.

Now, as I said before, this is the LAST change that will be made in this build, and I`m asking for forgiveness, from everyone that I`ve mislead and/or dragged around over the course this thread has taken.

On the flip side, my uni strut is ready to go in. I`ll be getting some smaller unistrut which I can use to make my new console, as well as tie the two struts together on the underside of the floor. I`ve got the Lokar situation all figured out. I will be using it, but not before a few questions. My hump is not removable, is it possible to install the bracketry for the lokar underneath, or would it be worth making my hump removable? I`ve figured out the reverse light and NSS out, so that`s all set.

Let me know what ya think, guys.;)
 
you can install the bracketry from underneath, it will just be very, very hard to do. the hump is removeable, you just are not trying hard enough. you most likely have one that is glued down. If you do not remove the hump it will be a nightmare tuning the shifter. what I am referring to is where you mount the base, how much lean it has, how long the rod is from the shifter to the trans, where the neutral safety switch lines up.
 
gmc4cw said:
you can install the bracketry from underneath, it will just be very, very hard to do. the hump is removeable, you just are not trying hard enough. you most likely have one that is glued down. If you do not remove the hump it will be a nightmare tuning the shifter. what I am referring to is where you mount the base, how much lean it has, how long the rod is from the shifter to the trans, where the neutral safety switch lines up.
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His trans hump is probably spot welded and glued, like mine was. It will take some work but you can get it out and then use tek screws to screw it back in. You could then caulk the seams when your done to waterproof.

And Ben no worrys on the change in build plans, it will just make the truck better than before. Heck I've gone from reverse highsteer to full hydro to deciding on just regular crossover steer and later add hydro assist.
 
spot welded would suck. If thats the case then get a small hole saw about 3/8 or 1/2 inch. something so you can drill around the spot weld. it will take some time but will be worth the effort.
 
Hey thanks everyone. I wasn`t really sure what to expect when I spilled the news, so I figured I`d try and cover the possibility of anything happening...

Craig, well put, and that was my first thought, but like I said, wasn`t sure how it would go...

GMC4W, I`m sure it is, but not easily. I`ve yet to try pulling it up. I`m thinking about doing something like you did with your hump, how big of a whole would I need to have enough space to install the shifter/bracketry?

Ryan, did you pull yours off? If i`m not going to destroy the thing prying it up, then i`ll give it a shot....
 
gmc4cw said:
spot welded would suck. If thats the case then get a small hole saw about 3/8 or 1/2 inch. something so you can drill around the spot weld. it will take some time but will be worth the effort.
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Well, I`ve never heard of them being spot welded before Ryan mentioned it. I heard it was either bolted down, or just stuck there with some NASTY sealant...
 
Chevy305 said:
Ben, you flip and flop more than a sandle...

:haha: :haha: :haha:
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See, told ya someone would say something:rolleyes: Rest assured Glenn, this is THE LAST flip or flop this build will take....at least that drastic:D
 
at least you change your mind. I actually go through with the plans and then change it. my truck has had 3 different front axles. 4 different rear suspensions with 3 different front springs. corrected the steering twice before I put crossover on. I'm getting ready to change to the third ratio.

It's no where near finished, but I can wheel it. I try to keep it so that I can wheel it. If I am going to do something major now I wait till I have all the parts and money and time to do it quickly. Keep it driveable and it doesn't matter how many times you change your mind.
 
Chevy305 said:
Ben, you flip and flop more than a sandle...

:haha: :haha: :haha:
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Here Mr. Ben, just for you!

FlipFlops.jpg


Maybe you can get these
tsl.gif
retreaded
tsl.gif
! :haha:

Manny









































C'mon man, you know I'm messin' with ya! You know I'm always in your corner!
 
Yeah some chumps with nothing better to worry about might crap on you, but guess what, it's your build, and if it bothers them to read it than go search the rest of the net for something to do!

My advice is remove the hump properly. I too, understood that it is either bolted or sealed. If it IS infact spot welded, it is easy to remove and will make for a MUCH cleaner install. Don't skimp. The spot welds should be obvious, use a drill and spot weld bit to drill them out.

I don't recall now what you are running and why, so I'll just assume that this 10bolt makes sense to you. However I WILL say this. Chances are, down the road, your truck will evolve. My big thing is to spend my money once. If you aren't going D60 (for obvious reasons, I'm with you there) I'd consider at least hooking yourself up with a flat top D44 for the crossover you WILL get eventually, and a 14bff for ABSOLUTE dependability. Not only are they better in the long term, they are also more marketable if the day should come when you are selling the stuff.

For what it's worth I used this theory with my first truck and it paid off big time in the end. I can honestly say that I haven't wasted a single dollar between my '89 Burb, and my '76 Blazer. Except maybe the sway bar disconnect that wasn't interchangeable.

But I know you've beaten this to death already so I'll let the poor horse die! :D
 
Yeah, a 14bff is most likely going to be used. Hopefully the guy that still has the 8 lug wheels I wanted will sell. They were dirt cheap for what they were. The front axle I`ll be picking up, all done up to what I want, for damn cheap,so that`s what I`ll use. If a D60 can be had, at a reasonable price, then MAYBE i may grab it..but don`t hold you`re breath....
 
BIGBLAZE433 said:
Well, I`ve never heard of them being spot welded before Ryan mentioned it. I heard it was either bolted down, or just stuck there with some NASTY sealant...
Click to expand...
Yep, mine was spot welded AND sealed. The cab I swapped on did not have a trans hump, so I had to swap it over from the old body.

First I used a razor blade and utility knife to remove as much sealant as possible, then I drilled out the spot welds. Don't use a hole saw, I just started with a small drill bit then went to a bit that is about the size or a little bigger than the spot weld. If you have the special bit designed for drilling spot welds, then use that. After all the spot welds are drilled I just used a broad, flat chisle and worked my way around.

I did mangle one of the corners a bit but nothing a hammer and dolly couldn't straighten out.
 
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