Project 82 TCBF -10.13.9 - progress!!!

[NEK5]

Ben,

I think it needs some more fine-tuning.

The illustration shows that the bracket and the rubber isolator are all jammed together with no gaps to allow the radiator to move. That's really not much different than having the whole thing made out of steel.

The main thing you want to do is constrain the radiator from moving front-to-back (toward the firewall or toward the grille), so brackets that creates a vertical channel on either side would accomplish that. To secure the radiator from lifting up and out of the radiator support, I would focus on a rubber mount across the top somehow....think short "bungee-cord" type straps from the radiator support, across the top of the radiator to a bracket on the fan-shroud side. This will allow the radiator to move upwards (slightly) when the frame is flexing and won't transfer those forces into the radiator itself....the radiator will simply push up against those rubber straps and deflect them as it creates the clearance it needs.

I envision a set of brackets that are more side-mounted on the radiator, with rubber straps running across the top...


ps. This advice is worth what you paid, and the more people you ask the more opinions you'll get.

So basically what your saying is to run the mounts I've designed on the side of the radiator rather than the top? You've lost me completely on the top mounts

 

[Greg72]

Take a look at this.... I'm awesome at MSPaint:

 

[NEK5]

how would one create said straps?

as for gaps to allow movement, should that just be side to side? Should it be tight front to back?

BTW, your paint skills rock hahah

 

[Greg72]

The thing to remember is that aluminum is a much softer metal than steel. If the two are rubbing against each other, the aluminum loses.

Ideally, you want a thin rubber layer (or UHMWPE) between any spot that could rub while still allowing movement.

My idea is one of many possible solutions. You could build a bridge across the top of the radiator and then use urethane bushings on either end to connect it to the core support.... in that case, the bushing allows for the deflection and movement of the radiator.

There have got to be photos on the interweb somewhere to give you some ideas.

 

[NEK5]

The thing to remember is that aluminum is a much softer metal than steel. If the two are rubbing against each other, the aluminum loses.

Ideally, you want a thin rubber layer (or UHMWPE) between any spot that could rub while still allowing movement.

My idea is one of many possible solutions. You could build a bridge across the top of the radiator and then use urethane bushings on either end to connect it to the core support.... in that case, the bushing allows for the deflection and movement of the radiator.

There have got to be photos on the interweb somewhere to give you some ideas.

hmm, I wonder. Wouldn`t even know how to search it though I get the side mounts, c channel, rubber, leave a little space to allow for movement. Top mounts, eh, not so much

 

[BGKYK5]

Does that box tube under the rad mount to the core support? How thick is it? Just wondering how much that box tube might flex.

 

[NEK5]

Does that box tube under the rad mount to the core support? How thick is it? Just wondering how much that box tube might flex.

yep, bolted to rad support, and its about 1/8th in thick?

 

[NEK5]

What if I just make the mounts taller, making it snug front to back (with the rubber isolating it from the metal, and just have a 1/4in gap or so between the top of the radiator, and the rubber at the top of the mount, which will allow it to move up if neccessary?

 

[Greg72]

That would probably work fine.

I'm not trying to send your build down a rat-hole....I was just trying to remind you that aluminum radiators need a bit more careful thought than a conventional steel one.

 

[NEK5]

That would probably work fine.

I'm not trying to send your build down a rat-hole....I was just trying to remind you that aluminum radiators need a bit more careful thought than a conventional steel one.

I understand completely. You were just trying to avoid the future thread that said "Well my radiator seems to be leaking, and the side tanks look to be cracked"

I appreciate it, really thats all I'd need is to buy a new freakin radiator

Thanks Greg

 

[NEK5]

progress, slowly but surely getting there, as always
batt cables all made up (big stuff is 2/0 ga, little is 4 ga)
black cable is ground to block, short red is batt to solenoid, long red is solenoid to starter

also started on the rad mounts, its all there, just need to weld it, and drill out the mounting holes

also got some switches, exhaust stuff, etc.....more pics later.

 

[NEK5]

well, i just put a carport up in the driveway, so i'm looking forward to workin on it!

 

[shaun89]

well, i just put a carport up in the driveway, so i'm looking forward to workin on it!

nice, just be sure to keep the snow off it, when it snows just poke it with a broom from the inside, mine met its fate when the snow started to melt and all the poles bent

 

[Dalejrfan]

Hey Ben,

Just looking through your build. I have a couple of questions for you. Are you happy with the aftermarket dash? I need to replace mine, but I'm a little gun shy of the aftermarket interior pieces. Also, did you re-mount the breathers for the axles?

 

[NEK5]

Well as far as the dash. I'm about as happy with it as I could ever be with an aftermarket piece. Nothing fits like OEM pieces, but I can live with the way it looks. That is until I see what Kert has come up with

As for the breathers, unfortunately never got the chance. But, with the carport up now, I just need to grab my buddys heater and I can get back to work!

 

[jonrpick]

Pics of said carport...

 

[NEK5]

Here's the best pics I could get on my way to being called into work

I plan on adding a huge tarp to the ground, and better anchors, as well as a few sheets of plywood under the rig itself.

 

[NEK5]

Should do the job good enough

Need to work on anchoring this thing down though. Just wondering how I can anchor it. I've been told to use a Hilti/Ramset, just because of the legs, I'm not sure how to incorporate it into the frame. Maybe small cables? Wrap it around the frame, then nail it to the frame. Will I need to all 8 legs? I also have 12 cinder blocks to tie it down. I can also ratchet strap the thing to the frame of the truck too.

 

[udy2554]

Maybe a couple lag shields and bolts to the concrete with 2-hole conduit clamps around the perimeter? Depending on how the wind is where you are don't skimp! My buddy used the screw in anchors for power poles and had a good wind tear them out of the ground.

BTW, awesome build, I've been following all along. Makes me want to go out and work on mine, but the weather here is a great incentive killer, not to mention neck pain and all the rest! Keep up the great work!

 

[NEK5]

Maybe a couple lag shields and bolts to the concrete with 2-hole conduit clamps around the perimeter? Depending on how the wind is where you are don't skimp! My buddy used the screw in anchors for power poles and had a good wind tear them out of the ground.

BTW, awesome build, I've been following all along. Makes me want to go out and work on mine, but the weather here is a great incentive killer, not to mention neck pain and all the rest! Keep up the great work!

English? I'm not up to speed in contractor jargin

Thanks for the compliments man

Well, I'm just waiting on the heater now, its cold out there!!!!! Other than that, I ordered the carpet and door sill moldings for the rig, and sprung for the drivers side seat.......better be comfy!!!