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Project DieselWarrior ( ++ Updated: 25 Aug 10 w/PART 23 VIDEO ++ )

This guy's work not only gave me inspiration, but info on the floor rust problem.

[youtube]nLJ-Yqzt8DQ[/youtube]

Thought it was good enough to share...
Andrew
 
Well, been a little while since I last updated... Im kinda at a standstill till some more $$$ rolls in and I can either buy or rent a welder to get my rust holes fixed right, in the mean time its putty knife time and scraping sticky goo off the wheel wells where the carpet used to be attached.

Just doing a lot of prep work getting ready to weld, when that time comes... I hope soon!!

Cheers-
 
i hear folks have had reasonable success with a 4.5" angle grinder and flap discs for that stuff. never done it myself, but i have tried the putty knife method... that sucked.
 
Flap discs work awesome, but they get expensive after a while. Still need some various wire wheels for the areas you can't get to with the flap discs, though.
 
I use the blue discs, and they seem to last a good long time... way longer than those red ones.
 
Wow! Your elbow grease must be damn good stuff! most mechanics charge between $75 - $100 for their elbow grease. :wink1:
 
Update for 2 July 2010:

Ordered THIS today:
eastwood-135.jpg


Vid here:

For the money, it was hard to beat. $299 and free shipping off ebay from Eastwood's store front there.



Heres some eye candy of what I got done today, and what is left to do:

dieselblazer-2jul10-001.jpg



dieselblazer-2jul10-002.jpg



dieselblazer-2jul10-003.jpg

3" cutoff wheel, in suicide mode... needed to modify it so I could get in tight places with it.


dieselblazer-2jul10-004.jpg

Before Hack


dieselblazer-2jul10-005.jpg

After hack


dieselblazer-2jul10-006.jpg

Hack closeup



dieselblazer-2jul10-007.jpg

Waiting on my love and attention, maybe tomorrow...



dieselblazer-2jul10-008.jpg

This one is kinda funny. My neighbor just got done putting up brand new siding and shutters. I wonder where he got the color schema idea???



dieselblazer-2jul10-009.jpg

Home front protection... because the 12ga is too heavy to just carry around. (Open and Concealed carry are popular in Va. See VCDL and opencarry.org for more info)



dieselblazer-2jul10-010.jpg

One nice thing about a big full size Blazer... plenty of room to store your tools in between work sessions.



dieselblazer-2jul10-012.jpg

Ill get back on the exterior after the inside is finished.


More to come, as I have it...
Cheers,
Andrew
 
Last edited by a moderator:
You should take a heat gun and remove that body stripping...then fix the couple of dents you have. It's kind of a shame with all the other work you're doing to paint over dents on the outside. ;)

Rene
 
Hey RustY,
Your name and my truck, have something in common! HA HA!

A quick reply on your post:
1) The stripe stays, if you could see the other side, that is already painted flat black.
2) But, the dent gives it character. :-) I may pull on it a little, Im undecided.



NEED TO DO:
* Build a break so I can put bends and lip edges on some sheet metal (I gotta wait for the welder first, doah)
* Buy a nibbler
* Figure the best way to get paint from a spray can, into my "Binks" cup. (The Krylon camo paint is what I started to use, and since Im 80% done, I figured Id just finish the rest with a real paint gun and get better results, plus theres a few places that need a touch up and it should look top notch!)
* Build a new battery box and mount it up on the driver's side.


NEED LATER, BUT "ASAP"
* New shoes
* Change oil
* Drop Pittman arm to fix the bump-steer


Damn I cant wait to drive it, Ive had it almost a bit over a month and only drove it twice. $$$ has been part of the delay.


Andrew
 
DieselWarrior said:
Damn I cant wait to drive it, Ive had it almost a bit over a month and only drove it twice. $$$ has been part of the delay.


Andrew
Click to expand...
Quick question, wouldn't almost a bit over a month make it a month?

I can't wait to see how your patches come out when you get the welder, hopefully I can patch mine some time.
 
BTW, I should have updated before now... I got off craiglist for $100 a DAMN NICE 5hp/20gal/110v compressor, it works GREAT for the paint gun, does pretty good for the cut off wheel, does fine for the needle scaler (which is a great tool to own!) It sure is nice to have decent air.

The paint gun Im running is the "Binks" style I got from Harbor Freight, its a dandy sprayer, Im painting my shed when I have free blocks of time.

Andrew
 
BS,
Ill be posting the updates, as usual.

The welder SHOULD be a winner, its got a 3 yr. warr. and comes with 100% money back if not happy guarantee.

I just got a 20oz CO2 paintball bottle and a paintball to CO2 regulator adapter. Once those come in, I need to get a CO2 bottle to 75/25 regulator adapter, and fill up the bottle at Dicks Sporting Goods for $4, then Ill be laying beads with straight CO2, which... should be fine.

My credit sux arse so no one will rent a bottle to me, **** them Ill go the ultimate budget route and still lay beads without there help. :-)

Andrew
 
Check the paint place where you bought the rattle cans...they probably have the exact same paint in a can, then thin it and spray.

As for the shield mix, around here you can flat out buy a bottle and when it's empty they exchange your empty for a full. No rental, no credit checks...

75/25 is a much better all around shield gas. I have a small 80 cu ft bottle and it lasts a good long time for home use...mostly welding on my K5 and other small projects.

Rene
 
OH yeah, almost forgot. A dent adds character if you put it there and it has a good story. For me any "previous owner" dents get fixed, and my rig has it's share!

The reasoning on the body side molding is twofold. One they always seem to lose adhesion which makes em look crappy, secondly they tend to trap moisture and crap in behind and cause you more rust issues later.

Rene
 
tRustyK5 said:
body side molding
Click to expand...
Ive been giving that more thought, and I think... Im gonna pull the molding.

Ill get the inside finished first, paint the floor and entire back area, and then Ill be ready to finish painting the outside, Ill just touch up over the area of the stripe after it's off.

Andrew
 
By the time you finish welding all of those patches in, you won't have any problem welding/filling the bolt holes in the exterior. Won't even need to fill them with a bolt.

Are you gonna put something to stop the rust on the structure before you patch over?
 
Spooky where rust will hide huh?

I dunno about anyone else, but i like the vid updates. Kinda fun. :waytogo:

Rene
 
72blazerguy said:
Are you gonna put something to stop the rust on the structure before you patch over?
Click to expand...

Yeah, Ive got some Rustoleum primer that is supposed to go over rust, I reckon thats about all. Im lucky that all the patch places have a back side I can get to, I think Ill spray some bedliner from a can on the back to protect it from future rust.

Andrew
 
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