CK5
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Project Eat Soot
- Thread starter Eat Soot
- Start date
, great work 
Eat Soot
1/2 ton status
Back again! I have been making some more progress lately I try to work on it every night after work. I didn't get pics of everything but I managed to get the transfer case bolted up to the nv4500 just waiting to fab a cross member then I can get the driveshaft built. Although I still havent addressed the rear tire/fender line up issue. I bought some zero-rates and 6 degree shims for the rear from ORD just need to install. I found a used clutch and brake pedal assembly and installed, switched out steering wheel. Biggest thing I worked on is the Hydroboost I finished installing it last night and now just need to plumb it up.
Good job on the progress, Soot. A lot more than I made this weekend.
Sooooo, what ya gonna do with the old wheel??? I know that there is probably a list already or worthy people that want that bad boy.
Sooooo, what ya gonna do with the old wheel??? I know that there is probably a list already or worthy people that want that bad boy.
Eat Soot
1/2 ton status
One thing I would like some input on is the steering shaft. I took it apart about a year ago and have been trying to piece it back together. Crappy part is I must have threw the box away that had most of the parts in it! I had to buy another rag joint and I know I'm missing a part or two. I believe there should be a cover over the spring right? The problem is there is about a 1/4" of up and down movement in the shaft after I put the new steering wheel on. I can't remember if there is another retainer or? Any help would be great. Maybe it's flat wore out.
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I have mine 100% still together in the shed. If nobody posts up, I'll get you a photo tonight if needed.
Eat Soot
1/2 ton status
Thanks NC, I think I should donate that wheel into the round file.
looking good man!
hey, if you don't mind, post up a few more shots of your hydroboost bracket and maybe some fab details. it looks like you managed to use a late model truck version. were you able to use the pushrod without modifications?
hey, if you don't mind, post up a few more shots of your hydroboost bracket and maybe some fab details. it looks like you managed to use a late model truck version. were you able to use the pushrod without modifications?
- Joined
- Mar 12, 2004
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Snapped this for ya. Looks like your missing that big ole washer thingiy
Eat Soot
1/2 ton status
Thanks Ash, I actually bought those through CaptainFab on the "other site" 67-72. Brackets look and work great I did this so I didn't have to modify hole in firewall. I took the HB off an 1990 Chevy 3500 dually. I can get some more pics of them but I failed to take pics of the brackets before install.
Eat Soot
1/2 ton status
SBD- thank you for the pic! That is what I needed I will try and local one.
thanks for the info. I already did mine, but I copied z71's and used a square body bracket and modified the pushrod. it works, but it seemed like there should have been a better way.
This is coming together great! Looks like you can almost see the light at the end of the tunnel. Congrats man!
Eat Soot
1/2 ton status
Thanks Z, yes there is light at the end on the tunnel. Really trying to get it on the road by Sept not sure if that will happen.This is coming together great! Looks like you can almost see the light at the end of the tunnel. Congrats man!
Eat Soot
1/2 ton status
Ok, after further review I did a piss poor job of explaining what I used for the Hydroboost setup. I know there are several options for the HB unit as far as full size diesel applications or I heard of people using a HB off of Astro van. Anyway I pulled one off a 1990 Chevy K3500 dually. As far as the brackets go I knew I could modify the bracket and make it work but cruising around I found a guy in Idaho that makes brackets that will bolt directly to the original 4 studs sticking thru the firewall. Once I got the brackets all I had to do was remove the plate that was on the HB and install the new bracket. Another advantage to doing this as opposed to direct mounting is you will not have to modify the factory hole in the firewall to accept the larger HB rear section. Once the HB is mocked up and bolted with a couple bolts you can measure the distance that will be needed to extend the push rod. I ended up just using the original 72 push rod end and the original hole in the brake pedal. It was really quite simple.
I ended up ordering new lines off a 1995 C3500 5.7 application. I will see if I can modify them to work. I will do a follow up if there are issues.
You can look up Captainfab on the "other site" 67-72 forum. Great guy and service, another nice part is it comes with all the hardware.
I ended up ordering new lines off a 1995 C3500 5.7 application. I will see if I can modify them to work. I will do a follow up if there are issues.
You can look up Captainfab on the "other site" 67-72 forum. Great guy and service, another nice part is it comes with all the hardware.
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thanks for the write up. that looks like a great setup. it always amazes me how many different ways people come up with to accomplish the same things on these rigs.
Eat Soot
1/2 ton status
I really have been pushing to get this moving under it's own power. I installed the radiator, plumbed hydroboost, installed passenger side inner and outer fender. As far as the hydroboost lines I ended up just making my own with some aeroquip fittings and hose pretty simple not as flashy but it works. I still need to get them staightened and clamped down. The factory Dodge clutch master cylinder I have was a different animal though. The master actually goes through a square hole in the firewall and you turn it a 1/4 turn and it locks into place. So without saying I had to come up with something or get a new setup. A friend of mine is into machining and hooked me with a billet aluminum base plate that locks the master and and bolts to the firewall with 3/8 bolts and should be a solid base for the firewall as well. I will end up cutting the rod and add some threads to lengthen the rod to the clutch pedal.
Neat idea. In the original design, the master fits through a large diameter hole (same diameter as the lip on the round rubber seal) in the firewall and the square dealio actually twists into a bracket behind the firewall and the big rubber disc seals the hole. Your setup should work fine, but you will have to use some sort of sealer on the mount to the firewall and the master where it twists into the mount. You will also cut off the big rubber seal. The electrical thing on the input is the neutral safety switch. If you are not running one, you can remove that also.
Fancy 
