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Project MULE - Expedition build on a 1991 1500 4x4 Suburban

Muddysub

Its actually really easy to get to the front striker nuts.

Pull seat forward
5 Phillips screws on main pillar panel
1 screw above seat belt bolt
remove seatbelt bolt. 3/4" socket I think it was.
panel pops loose and slides out of way and you can stick you hand in enough to hold it the nut.

Nojeepshere
there is a nut on the inside of the pillars that the door striker screws into. the striker goes thru a larger hole so when the striker is loose its adjustable in all directions.

The nut on the inside of the pillar is typically captured but a sheet metal "bucket" that is spot welded into place so if you fully remove the striker bolt the nut just flops around in that "bucket" instead of falling to the bottom of the pillar thus requiring you to fish it out with a magnet.

Most car companies have these nuts captured so you dont have to tear apart the "B" pillar paneling. For some reason Chevy didnt in this specific model and/or year range. But like I told Muddysub they are easy to get to.

hope that explained it for ya.
 
Well this one was ready to go and then I found it needs another adjustment. I need to move the front cross bar up and out in order to clear the control box of the ZEON 12,000lb winch! :doah:

But here is it primered and ready for paint.

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So while the door panels were off during the apint job and weather stripping I noticed what seals were there were gone. You can see in the first two pics they were just hanging there buy dust alone.

Instead of paying the large amount of money (for such simple items) i decided to go to my local hardware store and found some 3/8 general weather stripping.

I took the old stuff, cleaned the surfaces good then just layed a couple of spots down of 100% silicone and BAM all new seals for 12 bucks with extra left over

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New seals installed

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Christmas time, order in from LMC

All three weather seals fro the rear barn doors
Both new Oil cooler lines
Clear rear dome light cover
Clear turn and parking light kits.

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Cant wait to see your thoughts on the barn door seals... Im mostly happy with mine, but i have to really slam the doors to get them to shut.
 
y5mgisi said:
Cant wait to see your thoughts on the barn door seals... Im mostly happy with mine, but i have to really slam the doors to get them to shut.
Click to expand...

I had the same problem, ended up finding an NOS seal on ebay and that made the difference for me, but the LMC parts sealed well
 
We should have our sponsor LED lights in early next week. We trying to get this to a certain finished point before 17th for the Overland Expo in Flagstaff.

Get new windshield
New side rear glass
Make mount spots for lights on rack
Get lights first!
Drill and paint rack
Bolt rack onto roof
Paint sides of truck
Mount and wire winch bumper
Mount secondary batteries?

This is the last major event we are trying to aim for until fall after that I will be able to slow down and breath.

I feel like...:D:dunno::woot::eek1::eek1::haha::woot:
 
Anyone else, when you swapped out your barn door seals were they also siliconed or glued to the door or were yours just the little push pins?

Mine has what looks like silicone. I think it was a last ditch effort of the PO before having to spend money on the seals.

Its coming off OK I just need to know if it was a factory thing and if i should duplicate it?
 
pma4x4 said:
Anyone else, when you swapped out your barn door seals were they also siliconed or glued to the door or were yours just the little push pins?

Mine has what looks like silicone. I think it was a last ditch effort of the PO before having to spend money on the seals.

Its coming off OK I just need to know if it was a factory thing and if i should duplicate it?
Click to expand...

My seals on the barn doors were glued and had the push pins. The glue was from the factory was yellow and just broke off. The new seals I got from Ebay. The push pins didnt match the holes on the doors so I just siliconed the new seals on. Worked okay.
 
I came across some yellowish stuff that broke off on the upper body seal but the door seals had stretchy silicone stuff.

I think I may do a line of silicone jut to be sure. It may be a PITA to take off but I'll worry about in another 22years.
 
I have a tailgate, not the barn doors, but probably similar. When I replaced my seal it was pinned and glued. I picked up weather strip glue from the parts store which looked just like the factory stuff and worked well during installation.
 
Front bumper finally painted and installed. I have one revision to make and it will finally be available. Only took six months...

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This info is for the few that have asked for more details on the window vents.

They are from Germany. if you want to purchase other stuff you will need to translate. I used Google translator and just copied and pasted the text into the translator. I already had an idea of what I was looking for. A user on here by the name of "Northman" (on the expedition portal forum) had given me the direct link.

Website
http://www.nakatanenga.de/

This is the direct link tot he product i ordered, part # UNI4959LB
http://nakatanenga-tours.de/shop/article_UNI4959LB/Lüftungsbleche-Seitenfenster,-einstellbar-für-Scheibenbreite-von-49-59cm.html?sessid=SVdo9HWPhdifYhWYpZG3XIi0GW3eeSrqVQ1IvCJVe9gai3ybXNfVkey2X2BOvffk&shop_param=cid=1&aid=UNI4959LB&

You can email Sandra at the company at [email protected]. She speaks English but best to keep simple words. Just tell her you are wanting the same product you shipped to Arizona USA in April of 2013.

Here are the SAE dimensions.
Height = 5"
Minimal width = 19 3/8"
Maximum width = 23 1/4"
Outer top edges have a radius of = 2.5"

you also receive 8 rubber grommets that you cut to length to fit into the adjustment slots .
You slip it into the window channel and bring the window up. The window locks into a channel on the vent. Once this is done its pretty much as secure as have the window up all the way but leaving the vehicle interior to stay cool.

It would be best if you have a Paypal account and once they receive it they ship out via DHL and I received mine through the post office in about 3 weeks (it can take longer).

With the dollar down against the Euro and over seas shipping when all said and done it ran me $108 to my door.

Hope this help.

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you are building a damn fine rig!

:bow::bow::bow:

love the bumper.:thumb:
 
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