do fix the steering you need to be able to turn while sitting still, or up against a rock with one finger works the best 
CK5
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Project Penny - All good things must come to an end
- Thread starter Russell
- Start date
Those are some killer pics man!! Looks like a fun time
Already did that, needs another 4" on top of the shackle flip though
DK5
1/2 ton status
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Where is that Russell? That looks like an awesome place to go. Truck looks goood 
That would be Kaw Ridge near Grande Cache in Alberta 
Nice
Does anyone have any suggestions for an additional 4" of lift for my tahoe? I tried 4" lift springs but had the same issue as this guy:
http://www.fullsizechevy.com/forum/...6373-shackle-flip-4-springs-4-door-tahoe.html
http://www.fullsizechevy.com/forum/...6373-shackle-flip-4-springs-4-door-tahoe.html
Custom made springs?
DK5
1/2 ton status
- Joined
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That would be Kaw Ridge near Grande Cache in Alberta
Cool. If I ever head out to Dawson Creek I'll be sure to stop in to check it out. Detour!
Shackle flip and some 56's should give you the lift you want or if the factory are 54 you could just reuse them.
Since you already have a shackle flip you could try longer shackles with the lift springs, it will probably give you more flex anyway with the larger arch. And you'll be able to hook them up. DIY4X or ORD both make long shackles.
Sorry, been a while since I updated here!
I hadn't done a huge ton with the Tahoe because I was doing a bit of work on my K5 to prep it for an offroad competition up here. Its our version of the Tough Truck Challenge called the Tough Trail Challenge.
That said, this last weekend I replaced the transfer case with one that has a proper front output flange, an SYE kit and one of HAD driveline park brakes.
A buddy of mine up here in McMurray was kind enough to give me a number of those 1350 Super Duty front CV driveshafts and interestingly enough, they are a perfect fit for the rear of my Tahoe! The slip is almost dead center installed and even with a known bad CV joint, the driveshaft I put in eliminated most of the vibrations and binding I had with the factory rear shaft installed. I dropped the truck off at a driveline shop to have the CVs replaced on 3 driveshafts, one cut down to fit the front and all 3 balanced. It will be ready to pick up on Friday.
This weekend I am going to pick up a hydro assist ram and get the steering buttoned up on the truck. I am hoping that my power steering pump is going to be able to keep up running the steering box, assist ram and my hydro boost brakes. I'm going to do the pump mods on it and cross my fingers for now.
I am also hoping to get the Wilwood adjustable disc / disc prop valve in as well as the bigger 1.5" disc / disc master cylinder to get rid of the spongy pedal and clear the ABS light.
I'll post a couple pics of the hydro assist and such this coming weekend!
I hadn't done a huge ton with the Tahoe because I was doing a bit of work on my K5 to prep it for an offroad competition up here. Its our version of the Tough Truck Challenge called the Tough Trail Challenge.
That said, this last weekend I replaced the transfer case with one that has a proper front output flange, an SYE kit and one of HAD driveline park brakes.
A buddy of mine up here in McMurray was kind enough to give me a number of those 1350 Super Duty front CV driveshafts and interestingly enough, they are a perfect fit for the rear of my Tahoe! The slip is almost dead center installed and even with a known bad CV joint, the driveshaft I put in eliminated most of the vibrations and binding I had with the factory rear shaft installed. I dropped the truck off at a driveline shop to have the CVs replaced on 3 driveshafts, one cut down to fit the front and all 3 balanced. It will be ready to pick up on Friday.
This weekend I am going to pick up a hydro assist ram and get the steering buttoned up on the truck. I am hoping that my power steering pump is going to be able to keep up running the steering box, assist ram and my hydro boost brakes. I'm going to do the pump mods on it and cross my fingers for now.
I am also hoping to get the Wilwood adjustable disc / disc prop valve in as well as the bigger 1.5" disc / disc master cylinder to get rid of the spongy pedal and clear the ABS light.
I'll post a couple pics of the hydro assist and such this coming weekend!
Would like to at least watch, my truck is not gonna go to far in any comp.
Are farm keaps us very tyed down in the summer time.
Well see for next year if it might work out got go up there.
We nead some time off.
Oops I posted this in the wrong thread, supost to be in reply to your video thread.
Are farm keaps us very tyed down in the summer time.
Well see for next year if it might work out got go up there.
We nead some time off.
Oops I posted this in the wrong thread, supost to be in reply to your video thread.
Last edited:
GalDemSuga
1/2 ton status
cool truck
I see you were the only Chevy representative during that Jeep orgy
I see you were the only Chevy representative during that Jeep orgy
Badass!
I like this build!!!!! Tahoe looks Saweeeeettttt!!!! I wanna do one of these now. Love the bumper too!
Thanks guys!
Today I'm gonna install the adjustable prop valve and lower the rear about 3". If I have time, I'll also lower the front about 2". The truck stands a little bit too tall right now, and will be pretty tippy offroad.
I've been driving it around a bit, and while the bump steer is still pretty bad, the truck actually has pretty decent street manners. No major vibrations or scary noises at all. It gets up and goes pretty good with the 5.13s, and now that the speedometer is accurate the 4l80e shifts ok too.
Today I'm gonna install the adjustable prop valve and lower the rear about 3". If I have time, I'll also lower the front about 2". The truck stands a little bit too tall right now, and will be pretty tippy offroad.
I've been driving it around a bit, and while the bump steer is still pretty bad, the truck actually has pretty decent street manners. No major vibrations or scary noises at all. It gets up and goes pretty good with the 5.13s, and now that the speedometer is accurate the 4l80e shifts ok too.
Any Idea on what your mileage is?
Seems to be sitting around 18 mpg so far, similar to the K5. That's mixed city / highway driving (40/60 split). I'd guess around 20 if I was to drive it on the highway at 60 mph
Today I got the brakes finished up. Took 6 trips to town to replace stripped fittings, buy proper flare nut wrenches, brake fluid etc etc etc... I installed a Wilwood adjustable combination valve proportioned for disc/disc to start and still couldn't get a solid pedal. I then installed the 99 disc/disc suburban hydroboost master cylinder and voila! Suddenly I've got firm pedal and wow, the truck has brakes!
The rear circuit still has a hair too much bias for my liking even backed right off as far as possible, but it is real close. If I feather the throttle the rears still lock up just before the fronts do, but if I mash on the binders like in a panic situation, then all four lock up. A good solid stop with enough brakes to just avoid a rear lockup has the truck squatting down on all four corners and coming to a stop in a real hurry. I am very pleased with the results and will absolutely be installing one of these master cylinders on the K5. No more ABS light on in the instrument cluster anymore, and no more ABS crap to cause a soft pedal or random ABS activations due to a lack of front wheel sensors.
Tomorrow I am going to load the Tahoe up with all my gear, and get the rear axle straightened out to keep the truck from driving dog legged. I am going to remove the zero rate block to drop it an inch out back.
Next weekend I'll pull a leaf spring out of the front and if it drops the 2" I am hoping for, I'll remove the 4" block and replace it with a Ford 2.5" block and have functional bump stops out back to boot! I'll then load the truck up, and hit the road to Blazer Bash first thing Monday morning
Today I got the brakes finished up. Took 6 trips to town to replace stripped fittings, buy proper flare nut wrenches, brake fluid etc etc etc... I installed a Wilwood adjustable combination valve proportioned for disc/disc to start and still couldn't get a solid pedal. I then installed the 99 disc/disc suburban hydroboost master cylinder and voila! Suddenly I've got firm pedal and wow, the truck has brakes!
The rear circuit still has a hair too much bias for my liking even backed right off as far as possible, but it is real close. If I feather the throttle the rears still lock up just before the fronts do, but if I mash on the binders like in a panic situation, then all four lock up. A good solid stop with enough brakes to just avoid a rear lockup has the truck squatting down on all four corners and coming to a stop in a real hurry. I am very pleased with the results and will absolutely be installing one of these master cylinders on the K5. No more ABS light on in the instrument cluster anymore, and no more ABS crap to cause a soft pedal or random ABS activations due to a lack of front wheel sensors.
Tomorrow I am going to load the Tahoe up with all my gear, and get the rear axle straightened out to keep the truck from driving dog legged. I am going to remove the zero rate block to drop it an inch out back.
Next weekend I'll pull a leaf spring out of the front and if it drops the 2" I am hoping for, I'll remove the 4" block and replace it with a Ford 2.5" block and have functional bump stops out back to boot! I'll then load the truck up, and hit the road to Blazer Bash first thing Monday morning
