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Project Penny - All good things must come to an end

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Truck can't get any lower without serious frame mods, portals would give it room for 44's...

Ground clearance isn't the trucks issue, weight is!
 
The weight is only an issue when driving fast. On the street, and for most of the wheeling I do it isn't any trouble.

I'd love to go faster, and I think that a truss and a better suspension would go a long ways to helping with that. If I want to go stupid fast like some of the Ultra4 buggies, then I'd have to build up a very different kind of a rig
 
I guess if a fab 60 housing is an option for you Russell, I would certainly head that way as well. I'm still in awe of the badassness factor of Penny!
 
Just sold the old LB7 along with all of the new parts I'd bought for it to a guy in Calgary. Need to get it down there yet, but I am hoping that either Luke or Rob from my rental can give me a hand with that...

Anyways, I'm going to place an order for a standard clearance ProRock 60 for my truck as soon as I get the cash for the engine.

The plan right now is as follows:

Axle Truss
3 link style suspension
King 2.5 coil over shocks
King air bumps
Limit straps
Tube shock hoops

I have a LOT of research to do to make sure I set the suspension up properly so this thing handles the way I want it to!
 
Russell said:
Just sold the old LB7 along with all of the new parts I'd bought for it to a guy in Calgary. Need to get it down there yet, but I am hoping that either Luke or Rob from my rental can give me a hand with that...

Anyways, I'm going to place an order for a standard clearance ProRock 60 for my truck as soon as I get the cash for the engine.

The plan right now is as follows:

Axle Truss
3 link style suspension
King 2.5 coil over shocks
King air bumps
Limit straps
Tube shock hoops

I have a LOT of research to do to make sure I set the suspension up properly so this thing handles the way I want it to!
Click to expand...

thats awesomer Russell....hey check out Greg's thread....lot going on there with suspension setup right now.
 
Well, I have officially spent hours under my truck with a measuring tape and trying things out for the 3 link and while I have a pretty good idea of what I need to do, I am finding it will not be easy to pull it off haha! My eyes are good and bugged out from reading about proper setup all over the place lol
 
Nope, that would be way too easy!

I'm good on the anti-dive setup the way I want to be, but I can't seem to get my roll axis angle under control. Everything I've read indicates I want a slightly negative angle to give me a bit of understeer up front, but I am not sure what I can do to make that happen short of angling the links in towards the center of the truck vs mounting them on the frame.

This is a nearly ideal setup, which is something I can pull off in my truck but would need to build a monster transmission crossmember that I can also connect my links to. My links would hang down below my frame a bit, so the mounts would need to be mega beefy to hold up to rock impacts etc.

ideal.jpg
 
Russell,

Welcome to the 3-link nightmare. :)

I had a lot of the same design challenges you are now describing. The experts were telling me to maintain a few degrees of negative roll axis, and the only way I could get it with the calculator was to angle those lower links toward the transmission pan. The crossmember won't be impossible to build but it's definitely easier the closer you are to the factory framerails.

Neither of your designs has enough negative roll axis (IMHO)... That second one looks downright dangerous for street driving (2.5* of roll oversteer! :yikes:)

The one problem you have that I don't is the "lowness" of the frame side mounts. It's going to be hard to keep those from getting hung up on rocks, but if you move them higher the AS% goes sky-high.

Fortunately, if you can get that part solved the PHB and draglink stuff will be virtually effortless with a conventional axle. That stuff is kicking my butt right now with the portal axle... I am completely out of room.


-G
 
The low hanging mounts don't get hung up in the rocks, they have nice long ramps in front of them at all times.

Roll understeer, angle the lowers in more than you think to clear the tires also. Track bar parallel to the drag link. IF you can mount your coil-over in center of the axle front to back, this helps the hiems out a little bit. WIth bump stops or multiple shocks this isn't really possible

Mount the bump stop in line with the shocks left to right so that they protect the shock in all axle positions.

Good luck
 
Ah! Nice to see the experts in here :D

So, what kind of a target roll axis angle should I be targeting? I understand negative is good, but how many degrees negative?

While I was supposed to be sleeping last night I spent most of it cooking up a crossmember / skid plate design that I think will be strong enough to handle the lower links mounted within a foot of the center of the truck on either side of the transmission mount. This would make my roll axis angle -1.9. Would that be acceptable for street use?
 
I used a SWAG (scientific wild-ass guess) of around 2 - 3* negative.

I figure that's enough to be detectable while driving but not so much that the truck never wants to initiate a turn either.

Brandon / Heath / Eric would probably have a better explanation on this..... I'm kinda just the "hack" of the group! :)


-G
 
1.9 should be fine you just need some. But too much is almost as bad.

It defines whether your front axle steers into the turn or fights the turn. If your number is positive it will fight the turn if its negative it will steer into it.

This is one of those numbers where little changes make big differences.

Why such a low AS number, I prefer a bit higher number but thats just me. I know some guys that like much lower numbers than me
 
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