What's the plan for body mounts?
CK5
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Project Resurrection: The s10 truggy.
- Thread starter Stomis
- Start date
Stomis
Professional Amateur
Ive got those ones I fab'd up for the trooper body that I never drilled the spacing in that look like they'll work.
Btw PM coming your way need some CAD input.
How do you like that trailer??
Stomis
Professional Amateur
Its not mine but there's nothing wrong with it. I wouldn't say its fantastic but it gets the job done. Then ramps definitely suck.
What is the reason to go with Toy stuff ?
Why not stick with Chevy. The 4.3 is a 5.0 with two cylinders cut off. So cheaply found trans and t-cases will all bolt on.
Why not stick with Chevy. The 4.3 is a 5.0 with two cylinders cut off. So cheaply found trans and t-cases will all bolt on.
You mean 5.7 minus 2 cylinders [emoji6]
Stomis
Professional Amateur
I've got them. They flat belly really easy and are super compact and crazy strong for what they are. Gm doublers take a lot of work and money sourcing stuff. Plus my front axle is setup for toy driveshaft already, not that that's a defining reason.
And I'm not sure my frame is wide enough to flat belly a 241. It probably is but I've got the toy cases already and love how small they are. The packaging will be super easy around them.
And I'm not sure my frame is wide enough to flat belly a 241. It probably is but I've got the toy cases already and love how small they are. The packaging will be super easy around them.
If you already have them then that works
5.7 works also
I will third or fourth the motion if you do anything to the 4.3 put a 5.7 in it.
The 4.3 is fine as it is, but not worth doing anything to. Parts are not cheap compared to the SBC, and when you are done modifying it it's still a 4.3.
5.7 works also
I will third or fourth the motion if you do anything to the 4.3 put a 5.7 in it.
The 4.3 is fine as it is, but not worth doing anything to. Parts are not cheap compared to the SBC, and when you are done modifying it it's still a 4.3.
Stomis
Professional Amateur
Hot rod parts might not be cheap for them but they still arent too much more than SBC stuff. I understand I can put a tbi v8 right in it with the factory harness and a different ECU and dizzy but its not the only reason I dont want a v8. Accessibility to the engine is another part. v8s are crowded in an s10. Dont get me wrong they aren't horrendous but I want this thing to be a piece of cake to work on. Plus even if I did a stock LO5 Im going to have a shorter power band than a nice 4.3 with the same peak powers. And one thing I dont want with the toy tcases is power thats going to snap on.
O and I measured the cab mount width spacing on the s10 vs the tube frame and everything looks like it should jive with the mounts Ive already made.
Glad the mounts are going to work.
Yes all the wiring and accessories will work.
Just no complaining about lack of power when its all done
Yes all the wiring and accessories will work.
Just no complaining about lack of power when its all done
Stomis
Professional Amateur
Glad the mounts are going to work.
Yes all the wiring and accessories will work.
Just no complaining about lack of power when its all done
Ill gladly put my foot in my mouth if Im disappointed with power lol
beags86
Eastbound and Down
Damn if we're only 3 thousand miles closer. I am an olds guy so reading that hurt.... Got any pics?
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Bada$$ Man I had a 03 s10 with the nv3500 short bed std cab and I wanted to swap tj axles and tcase under it.. you got a great build goin on here.. for a tcase why not use a H3 case they are 3:1 and should bolt up?? I didnt see what drop your axle is.
I dont get all the hate on the 4.3?? its the same parts as the 350?? pistons are the same lifters etc besides the heads and cam and crank basically it all is the same as a 350 and if you thin itll lack power you gotta be kidding? the most powerfull n/a motor was 190hp 265lb ft.. 2003 was the last year I should know I had one
beotch was good. and cammed with the good marine intake and good exhaust they are damn quick if thats not enough boost fixes all things slow.. and if anyone thinks theyre still slow go look up some typhoon or syclone videos.. 280hp 380tq...
I dont get all the hate on the 4.3?? its the same parts as the 350?? pistons are the same lifters etc besides the heads and cam and crank basically it all is the same as a 350 and if you thin itll lack power you gotta be kidding? the most powerfull n/a motor was 190hp 265lb ft.. 2003 was the last year I should know I had one
beotch was good. and cammed with the good marine intake and good exhaust they are damn quick if thats not enough boost fixes all things slow.. and if anyone thinks theyre still slow go look up some typhoon or syclone videos.. 280hp 380tq...
Stomis
Professional Amateur
Bada$$ Man I had a 03 s10 with the nv3500 short bed std cab and I wanted to swap tj axles and tcase under it.. you got a great build goin on here.. for a tcase why not use a H3 case they are 3:1 and should bolt up?? I didnt see what drop your axle is.
I dont get all the hate on the 4.3?? its the same parts as the 350?? pistons are the same lifters etc besides the heads and cam and crank basically it all is the same as a 350 and if you thin itll lack power you gotta be kidding? the most powerfull n/a motor was 190hp 265lb ft.. 2003 was the last year I should know I had one
Im passengers side drop unfortunately. Its what I had so its what I built. All the IFS stuff is drivers drop. All the packaging would have been easier with a drivers side drop,especially with the panhard, but I got it all in there so now I get to reap the benefits of the cheaper tcase options.
Its funny too because in the future I want to do a high pinion with dana 50 gears and ironically I'll be splicing the tubes to make it passenger side drop lol.
This is as far along as I got it.
sucks you had to junk it.. I know a couple g-body guys, grand nationals and such.. never built one myself, but it was one of the better hotrod looking bodies of the 80's..
the KM2's look good...
the KM2's look good...
beags86
Eastbound and Down
This is as far along as I got it. [URL=http://s794.photobucket.com/user/r0nin89/media/86%20Olds%20442/SDC12815.jpg.html said:[/URL]
Damn. That was a nice car. Sharp. Typical g body rust? Or what was the reason you couldn't move it? What yr? I have a a 87 now with 69' rocket 350.
Stomis
Professional Amateur
Since I think the street truck will be my forever straight line fast thing there will be a pro-touring 87 MC SS WAY down the road.
And yes Im so happy to see the tires I originally wanted on that thing finally. Thanks again
Stomis
Professional Amateur
It needed floor pans and I hodge-podged them together with patches and regretted not doing full pans. The car wasnt terrible rust wise on the body. Typical door corners, couple quarter/sail panel spots but easily fixable. In fact I did the one under the quarter glass from inside the car, piece of cake.
I just have a terrible habit of losing interest in things w/o a bowtie on them. I wont be making that mistake anymore lol.
beags86
Eastbound and Down
I hear that brother, when I was building the rocket I had to constantly fight the urge to dump the olds engine for a sbc. It was tough. But I knew in the long run it was my vision to stay olds. And I am glad I kept with it. Anyway sorry for the hijack, on with the truggy build.
Stomis
Professional Amateur
Did some stuff today believe it or not lol. Was tied up the last few days with funeral stuff for the grandpa... kinda ****ty.
I put the rear piece of the frame back on that I had cut off to try to clear the trooper tub in the back. Then I went about getting my leaf springs in place, so I finally broke open the pimp slider boxes Ive had for two years...
I called the guy who makes them, whos actually a friend of a friend, and asked him about how to orient the slope. I either heard him wrong or his misunderstood the way I posed my questions because I tacked them on like this first.
I started looking at them and cycling the leaf spring that I tore down to just a main leaf and it just didnt seem right. The motion of the slider was counter productive to the way the spring flexes with travel. Then I started googling shots of them and his bolt on ones and they are all oriented like this, which makes way more sense. One of us got confused lol.
So I fixed them and they work great. Heres full stuff, leaf spring is flat at 5" of up travel.
And static ride obviously unloaded pretty much. Both sides with heavy tack welds on them. 99% sure the rear suspension is staying right where its at. Especially since I can just build my bed around the wheel base.
We'll see how it plays out with weight on it but Im guessing down the road I'll be ordering a set of rear lift springs for this thing. The lack of shackle just tucks the springs up so high you lose like 2-3" of lift. Its great because like I had said in the other thread theres one less giant pivot point for the body to roll on and they are amazing for departure angle.
I put the rear piece of the frame back on that I had cut off to try to clear the trooper tub in the back. Then I went about getting my leaf springs in place, so I finally broke open the pimp slider boxes Ive had for two years...
I called the guy who makes them, whos actually a friend of a friend, and asked him about how to orient the slope. I either heard him wrong or his misunderstood the way I posed my questions because I tacked them on like this first.
I started looking at them and cycling the leaf spring that I tore down to just a main leaf and it just didnt seem right. The motion of the slider was counter productive to the way the spring flexes with travel. Then I started googling shots of them and his bolt on ones and they are all oriented like this, which makes way more sense. One of us got confused lol.
So I fixed them and they work great. Heres full stuff, leaf spring is flat at 5" of up travel.
And static ride obviously unloaded pretty much. Both sides with heavy tack welds on them. 99% sure the rear suspension is staying right where its at. Especially since I can just build my bed around the wheel base.
We'll see how it plays out with weight on it but Im guessing down the road I'll be ordering a set of rear lift springs for this thing. The lack of shackle just tucks the springs up so high you lose like 2-3" of lift. Its great because like I had said in the other thread theres one less giant pivot point for the body to roll on and they are amazing for departure angle.
