Project Resurrection: The s10 truggy.

[Stomis]

How is this thing doing?

Man sorry I never replied to this lol. This thing is going together this winter. Ive got like 4 friends that want to go to rousch creek this spring and Im kind of sick of tripping over the engine in the new garage. Ive got the nv3500/np241 out of the old welding truck, Ive got a new clutch left over from the original race truck trans, pedals, winch, blah blah. In fact I even wound up with a TBI harness and computer for the 305.

Only thing to figure out is combining the drivers side drop 241 and the passenger side drop dodge fixed yoke 241 I have.

 

[Stomis]

You think I kidding, but I no kidding.


I literally have 90 percent of what I need to put this together. Cleaned the shit out of the trans and transfer case today. My buddy had a flywheel for me, I have a clutch, have a new slave, have a stick column and pedals, have an old poly bushing kit for the motor, some tabs etc.

Gotta stuff a 32 spline input in the dodge 241 tomorrow and see how it's clocked vs the gm stuff. I'm stuffing the drive train way into the floor for flat bellyness.

Looks like the gas tank will be a 31 gal suburban tank notched around the cross bracing in my frame. Cage plans are in hold. Plan is to get it running, driving, and wheeling in the cheap first then add to it with small projects at a time.

 

[Justin V]

 

[Blazooki]

dont touch the paint just put an eagle on the hood and some stars on the doors

 

[bmxbryant9]

So stoked your finishing this

 

[Stomis]

dont touch the paint just put an eagle on the hood and some stars on the doors

lol its tan not white though!

Im going to paint it the same the old k10 flatbed was, tan, black hood, black bed with tan doors on the bed.

 

[Stomis]

Dodge fixed yoke 241. Chevy input was a straight forward swap. Everything measured the same, I'm not really sure why I couldn't find a straight forward answer on that. Also it bolts right in the adapter and is even up a little from being flat. 1 bolt hole has to be slightly elongated the other 5 line right up




This isn't much fine by yourself lol



Flatbelly mode is serious






Motor mounts were another dilemma. Passenger side, piece of cake, drivers side.... I'm mother ****ing that guy that out an astro can box on the inside of the frame...





Going to have to make some sort of very beef plate to drop the mount back behind the steering box.

It's sitting pretty good overall.



Clears the hold nice too. No need for a cowl...



So other than the motor mount the other snag us the passenger side drop vs the external slave. I'm gonna see if maybe I can put my internal slave bell off my old 2wd trans from the street truck in this trans. It might clear, I'm not sure. I'm not gonna jump the gun and do anything, I might just be able to clearance the case.

 

[Blazooki]

gah...looked white in the photo

 

[Stomis]

We dont have a trans guru on here do we? Im trying to find out if my 2000 2wd nv3500 front case/bell will work on my 1992 4wd nv3500 (which probably isnt really an nv3500 its probably an hm290).

I dont really want to have to make a driveshaft while this is mocked up to check lol.


I tried pirate but some guy with a 1 year old account told me nv3500s suck and I should probably build a real suspension that wont hit my slave cylinder... I tore into him and proceeded to give up on pirate again lol.

 

[Stomis]

How to put a motor mount where it doesnt go on a small block chevy 101....





Got the motor all in. Still need to do a trans crossmember. Im still kinda at odds with how I want to do it. Im going to fully flat belly the truck later so I want it to be at the right height to use as a mounting point for the skids too.

 

[Bent77]

@Greg Ducato is our resident tranny guy


I'm just here for the carnage and cuss words

 

[Stomis]

Whipped up a crossmember. Just need to add a couple gussets to the tranny mount shelf. Kinda thought it was a waste to order a poly bushing kit when I had the stuff lying around to make some aluminum bushings in DOM. Its kinda funny how much of my random leftovers Im re-purposing now that Im plasma table-less and 30mins from a supplier.

The idea was it was easier to just measure everything center and then measure the tabs off the crossmember bolt holes since the frame is angled there and obviously one tab will be longer than the other.

So far im $18 into all this work for a new trans mount :P



Lol and I just realized now looking at this picture I may have pigeon toed myself into using a front CV shaft

 

[Bent77]

Doh!

 

[Stomis]

Dodged that bullet. Flipped the cross member around and got all the clearance I need.



Might still need to run a CV but clearance is way better now

 

[Stomis]

Found some poly cab mounts to use for the front that are the right height.




Motor height is good but still not good enough to run the serpentine setup.




Also adjusted the front axle forward about an inch. Looks like an inch is gonna be a mile on the back clearance. Plus I adjusted the coil buckets to get the ride height back to where it was now that the drivetrain weight is in it.




Its tight but not ridiculous. Going to have to run a pusher though. Im not sure if Im gonna use this rad or source something else. I cant remember if this is the original 4.3 radiator from my street truck or if this was from the s10 when I bought it... I dont really want to run into over heating issues, especially on the trail. Especially since theres places like this here O.O



Ran across this hiking with the wife the other day. The pictures are deceiving but Ive never seen a rock garden not in an offroad park. So nice to be in real terrain now.




Ran a piece of 6in c channel thats been sitting around forever across the front of the frame for a winch mount.



And finally took the time to button up that mess in the front from changing the plans from trooper to s10 and having to change the frame height.

Next up on the list is the sheet metal on the inside. Im trying to button everything up that can be buttoned before pulling the drivetrain again. Im going to switch the bearing retainer from my 2wd internal slave trans to the 4wd trans, cut the external mount off the bell and tig the hole shut. Also need to notch the oil pan for panhard bar clearance and resealing the motor is probably a good idea.

 

[kgblazerfive]

Not a lot of space in front of that water pump

 

[Stomis]

Not a lot of space in front of that water pump

Nope not at all. Definitely gonna be a pusher fan from the front.

 

[Stomis]

Actually having a done and painted front frame section and a winch bolted on put a smile on my face lol.

Maybe a little interior sheet metal today in between work....

 

[Stomis]

Started the floor. Wound up cutting a little more just to be certain the rear CV would clear.

The budget northern tools brake isnt half bad for like $70.







Since I need to make a front driveshaft tunnel anyway I figure Ill just make a complete trans tunnel. The stock tunnel is super tight to the trans so Im just gonna make it straight off the tcase box to a few inches before the fire wall. I also threw a passenger seat in there to get an idea. The box looks crazy tall but the seat on the passenger side will really only be about 3in taller. I think the driveside might actually squeak by and bolt in the stock location but I'll probably raise it for visibility and so it actually feels like you're sitting in a truck.

 

[Stomis]

Finished up the back






Chopped the rest of the tunnel and some more floor where the driveshaft is going to live. After looking at how high the drivetrain is I really should get a clocking ring to actually turn the tcase down a little to help the driveshaft angle.