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Project Smoke Wagon

1984 GMC Jimmy 383 Stroker | SM466
Now it shift just right from 1-2 maybe just a bit stiff. But it’s starts coasting in 3rd. Erving it up and it just goes nowhere. Thinking the 3-4 clutches are burnt up. Which is just weird since it was stuck in 1st gear only.
 
Just rechecked the fluid and it is on the low side (while running of course). I put in just under 6 quarts initially. Ran out so will have to pick some up tomorrow see if that helps at all.

I am just going to be perplexed if something is wrong with the 3-4 clutches. I don’t see how they would burn up if they weren’t being engaged at all.

:weapon7:
 
Got a line on an SM465, pedal assembly, Cross Member, linkages and TC adapter. Won’t have to swap drive lines.

Then again 4:88 gears would do better with an overdrive on the freeway. But I do t really care. I want something bulletproof.

F*** auto transmissions.

Won’t be the first vehicle I’ve done an auto to manual swap on. I know the challenges of getting the pedal assembly correct. Just going to do this and be done with it. I can’t see the sense in rebuilding a weak transmission. Never liked 700r4’s. Hell, I’ve never liked auto transmissions. For 1/3 the price of a new 700r4 I can have a manual swap. That 4 speed and 4:88 gears with 35” tires would be fun on the highway at 6000 rpms haha
 
Got a line on an SM465, pedal assembly, Cross Member, linkages and TC adapter. Won’t have to swap drive lines.

Then again 4:88 gears would do better with an overdrive on the freeway. But I do t really care. I want something bulletproof.

F*** auto transmissions.

Won’t be the first vehicle I’ve done an auto to manual swap on. I know the challenges of getting the pedal assembly correct. Just going to do this and be done with it. I can’t see the sense in rebuilding a weak transmission. Never liked 700r4’s. Hell, I’ve never liked auto transmissions. For 1/3 the price of a new 700r4 I can have a manual swap. That 4 speed and 4:88 gears with 35” tires would be fun on the highway at 6000 rpms haha

You might want to look for a nv4500. I have the 465 and it’s great, but I have 4.56 and 40’s and the max comfortable speed/rpm is about 70. If you plan on driving her more than to the corner store, I really think you’ll want o.d. And the 4500 shifts are less dump-trucky lol.
 
You might want to look for a nv4500. I have the 465 and it’s great, but I have 4.56 and 40’s and the max comfortable speed/rpm is about 70. If you plan on driving her more than to the corner store, I really think you’ll want o.d. And the 4500 shifts are less dump-trucky lol.

Just can’t justify the price at the moment. Maybe I’ll upgrade later but 70 is a good speed. Don’t plan on taking it over the passes very often maybe 100 miles round trip every couple months or so.
 
I have driven many trucks with the sm465 so I know exactly what I am getting into with the dump truck feel. Start out in second or maybe even 3rd and wrap it up to 4th.

Hook a chain around a house and pull it out of the ground in 1st lol
 
Alright.

I got everything to do a mechanical linkage swap. I’ll do hydro later.

One question. Can I change the shaft of the np208 from the donor from 32-27 spline if need be? I’m not sure of the spline count yet but I am trying to use my existing drive lines. Will that even be possible? If it’s the same case as I have will I still need a longer drive line?

Edit: with a bit of searching I got the answers to my questions yes and yes.

Also, it’s way easier to do a swap in these than cars. I always had to fabricate the pedal assembly a bit to get it to work right. It appears these will bolt in with just a few holes needed to be drilled.
 
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One thing I think I caught is that my headers may be a problem with the mechanical linkage. Wondering if there is a way to mod the mechanical linkage to work around them.
 
One thing I think I caught is that my headers may be a problem with the mechanical linkage. Wondering if there is a way to mod the mechanical linkage to work around them.
That’s a crap shoot. I went hydro when I converted mine, and I had to switch headers to avoid the slave cylinder.
 
That’s a crap shoot. I went hydro when I converted mine, and I had to switch headers to avoid the slave cylinder.


Dang. That’s a lot more than I really want to deal with but I already told the guy I’m coming for the parts.

What is the main difference between a hydro and mechanical bellhousing? Can’t you just fab up a bracket and use the mechanical fork and housing?
 
Dang. That’s a lot more than I really want to deal with but I already told the guy I’m coming for the parts.

What is the main difference between a hydro and mechanical bellhousing? Can’t you just fab up a bracket and use the mechanical fork and housing?
I have a design in it's infancy to use the mechanical pedals and adapt a cable for the clutch, it can be done around any style headers. The only thing I am still trying to figure is where to put the link on the pedal side to get the right amount of throw to disengage the clutch.
 
Just checked for clearance and I have tons of room. The holes for the bracket that holds the zbar appears to have already been drilled in my frame. Correct me if I am wrong.

Hard to see but there is 2 holes in the frame just below the firewall.
831198B2-1C36-4150-BF25-B90C22C2A9B1.jpeg
 
Coming this week in the saga of buying a lemon.

Sm465/np208 swap!

I’m thinking of doing a proper write up since the photobucket meltdown it seems using the search for references is kinda absent.

What color should I paint them. Thinking Chevy orange :D
 
Also need to track down the new parts I will need.

Sbc400 fly wheel (probably get the $80 jegs one.)

Pressure plate Clutch’s and Bearings Kit.

What clutch kit should I go with being it a mechanical set up? Don’t want to have to move mountains with my left leg but want something decent.
 
After some inspection above my current trans and TC I noticed that I have a removable trans tunnel.

I will have the same np208 case so where it’s linkage and shifter will be is permanent.

On the very center of my trans tunnel there is a factory dimple which looks like the shape of a shifters boot. I am willing to bet money that I just simply have to cut that dimple out. Correct me if I am wrong. Tried to search this but had no luck.
 
After some inspection above my current trans and TC I noticed that I have a removable trans tunnel.

I will have the same np208 case so where it’s linkage and shifter will be is permanent.

On the very center of my trans tunnel there is a factory dimple which looks like the shape of a shifters boot. I am willing to bet money that I just simply have to cut that dimple out. Correct me if I am wrong. Tried to search this but had no luck.
Ye is correct
 
Ye is correct

Man, that is so nice. I can just pull the pan and cut it on the bench. I’ve done auto to manual swaps that had to be completely redone and fabricated. This is going to be a breeze. Can’t wait to get it going.
 

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