CK5
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Project Smoke Wagon

1984 GMC Jimmy 383 Stroker | SM466
Found this:

Test Results:

2000 Ford Windstar Fan Assembly
left fan: 340ml= 13.3inches
right fan: 390ml=15.3inches

left fan: 60.3cmm=2129.193cfm
right fan: 64.4cmm=2273.964cfm
this was rated at 1935 RPMS
4403.157 cfm total......

ml= milliters
cmm= cubic meters per minute
cfm= cubic feet per minute
conversion from cmm to cfm done by cmm x 35.31= cfm

1999-2003

620280ford2000windstar.jpg

1994-98

620270fordwindstar94.jpg
 
Found this:

Test Results:

2000 Ford Windstar Fan Assembly
left fan: 340ml= 13.3inches
right fan: 390ml=15.3inches

left fan: 60.3cmm=2129.193cfm
right fan: 64.4cmm=2273.964cfm
this was rated at 1935 RPMS
4403.157 cfm total......

ml= milliters
cmm= cubic meters per minute
cfm= cubic feet per minute
conversion from cmm to cfm done by cmm x 35.31= cfm

1999-2003

View attachment 321802

1994-98

View attachment 321804

Both fans in the set up I tore out are identical in circumference. Wonder what pile they came out of I would say they suck but they can’t really.
 
Today will be the day I drive it for the first time. I’m so excited I can’t even sleep. I had to go out and get a different kind of battery charger so I could put my optima battery back in. All I need to do is wire the choke for the carb in to the fuse panel.

Everything else is buttoned up. Ran a magnet every where to get my loose tools, washers, nuts that had fallen every where.

I accidentally bumped my neutral safety switch when working on plumbing some wiring. And now I have reverse lights when before I didn’t. I really hope it doesn’t give me to much trouble to get it set.

Alright. I’m jumping in the shower and making a cup of coffee. I’ll be out in the shop by 5 am. Wish me luck.
 
Today will be the day I drive it for the first time. I’m so excited I can’t even sleep. I had to go out and get a different kind of battery charger so I could put my optima battery back in. All I need to do is wire the choke for the carb in to the fuse panel.

Everything else is buttoned up. Ran a magnet every where to get my loose tools, washers, nuts that had fallen every where.

I accidentally bumped my neutral safety switch when working on plumbing some wiring. And now I have reverse lights when before I didn’t. I really hope it doesn’t give me to much trouble to get it set.

Alright. I’m jumping in the shower and making a cup of coffee. I’ll be out in the shop by 5 am. Wish me luck.
Are we wishing you luck on the coffee, or the shower?

this is an awkward conversation
 
Are we wishing you luck on the coffee, or the shower?

this is an awkward conversation

Luck on getting the damn thing started. Which I have been unsuccessful in doing this morning. I rebuilt the starter. Fully charged battery. Now I get nothing at the ignition source wire for the starter.

Inspecting my ignition switch. If it is the white switch with a button and rod from the furthest left side of the column. The rod isn’t being actuated when I turn the key over.

Could be.....
1. My lock cylinder is busted
2. Ignition switch is toast
3. Maybe hidden fusible link between the two. (Switch and solenoid)
4. With my luck probably all 3

I tried pushing the button by hand and the starter still will not crank.

Thinking it’s just time to get a wiring harness from one of those websites and be done with it.

If I do that then I’m also going to get the DIY4X dash. And build a proper cage.

Thing won’t see pavement until summer......
 
If the rod is not moving, start there

was this an issue before or did something change?
 
Luck on getting the damn thing started. Which I have been unsuccessful in doing this morning. I rebuilt the starter. Fully charged battery. Now I get nothing at the ignition source wire for the starter.

Inspecting my ignition switch. If it is the white switch with a button and rod from the furthest left side of the column. The rod isn’t being actuated when I turn the key over.

Could be.....
1. My lock cylinder is busted
2. Ignition switch is toast
3. Maybe hidden fusible link between the two. (Switch and solenoid)
4. With my luck probably all 3

I tried pushing the button by hand and the starter still will not crank.

Thinking it’s just time to get a wiring harness from one of those websites and be done with it.

If I do that then I’m also going to get the DIY4X dash. And build a proper cage.

Thing won’t see pavement until summer......
You said you bumped the neutral switch, that cuts off the power to the starter you need to adjust that first
 
The switch on the left lower is the dimmer switch.
You already said that you bumped the neutral safety switch, go there first
 
If the rod is not moving, start there

was this an issue before or did something change?

I had it running. I got it in time. Then, all of a sudden, it quit cranking. I thought I burnt up my starter or drained my battery. I am certain those are not the issue now. Tested the starter and have a brand new fully charged battery. It’s hard to test the ignition source wire without someone here to crank the key for me. But I believe it’s between the ignition source and the switch. Since it wouldn’t crank when I actuated the switch button by hand and got nothing from the starter and I believe it is also my lock cylinder at this point since the rod doesn’t actuate the button.

:weapon9:
 
The switch on the left lower is the dimmer switch.
You already said that you bumped the neutral safety switch, go there first

I did that first. Trying to move the NSS one click at a time and getting it to crank. Nada.....
 
I had it running. I got it in time. Then, all of a sudden, it quit cranking. I thought I burnt up my starter or drained my battery. I am certain those are not the issue now. Tested the starter and have a brand new fully charged battery. It’s hard to test the ignition source wire without someone here to crank the key for me. But I believe it’s between the ignition source and the switch. Since it wouldn’t crank when I actuated the switch button by hand and got nothing from the starter and I believe it is also my lock cylinder at this point since the rod doesn’t actuate the button.

:weapon9:
Bypass everything and jump it at the starter that will tell you that the problem isn't the starter or the battery but again I remind you that you bumped the safety switch
 
Try bypassing it

Isn’t resetting the NSS just putting trans in reserve and moving switch until you get reverse lights? Hard to tell if it’s set properly since it won’t crank in any rotation.

I’m going to pull the starter out and retest it once again just to make double damn sure I’m good there.

While it’s out I’ll hook a meter up to the ignition source wire and try to read it through the windshield. I think there is a fusible link between my ignition source wire (green) and the factory purple wire running into the fuse box.

If the rod actuated switch on the column is the dimmer switch. Which switch is the ignition switch? I can hear it clicking when I turn the key but it’s to tight to see or feel it.

I’m going to test the ignition source wire trace it back to the purple and get back to you.
 
At ignition doesn't help you now.
You need to see if you get that at the starter.
The nss could be busted and not getting power through in any position.

This is at the ignition wire to the starter.

I have 12.41v at the battery this not attached to the best ground.

This shows that when I turn the key it is getting voltage to the wire at the starter. So my issue is either battery or starter still.

I am wondering if I burned up this $300 battery within a day of having it. I don’t have a way to test it’s amperage. It was on the charger all night. Might need to jump start it if this new starter doesn’t work out.
 
Cranking over now. Put in the old battery. So this optima red top. Is the problem. Probably discharged it to much and wasn’t cranking. It won’t hold its voltage. I had 12.41 when I put it in. Checked after iceman said something and it was at 10v
 
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