CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Project Smoke Wagon

1984 GMC Jimmy 383 Stroker | SM466
Keep an eye on the slider for the form missing the nylon. Mine wore about .125” of both the slider and the fork
 
The only thing I can see being an issue is the fork wearing into the collar quickly. And after a ton of time causing it not to move the gear far enough into place causing a pop out condition.
Apparently I typed to slow?
 
So I should be able to spin the shaft by hand in all gears? Because the output is spinning even when in neutral . And I can’t turn the shaft while it’s in any gears.
 
So I should be able to spin the shaft by hand in all gears? Because the output is spinning even when in neutral . And I can’t turn the shaft while it’s in any gears.
You probably missed the reverse gear with the fork. Have to restab it.
 
Alright. Now it spins easy in 1st, 2nd and stiffens up but still spins in 3rd, even stiffer but spins in 4th. Spins opposite in reverse feels about the same as 1st. Still moves the out put shaft in neutral but I think that’s just because it’s not spinning fast.
 
Alright. Now it spins easy in 1st, 2nd and stiffens up but still spins in 3rd, even stiffer but spins in 4th. Spins opposite in reverse feels about the same as 1st. Still moves the out put shaft in neutral but I think that’s just because it’s not spinning fast.
Sounds good now!
 
Sweet. That was the practice run Lol now I know what to look for when it’s back together. I was under the impression I wouldn’t be able to spin it at all while in gear. Trying to research what could possibly be used for the forks. Going to have to give my dad a call on this one. He’s put so many of these together he could do it blind with a hand tied behind his back. He only ran mechanical clutched 4-5 speed transmission in all of his hot rods. He’s definitely the guy to ask.
 
@Bent77 pretty sure it’s just PTFE as it’s the strongest form of these coatings. I will give it a shot and let everyone know. Not only is it abrasion resistant, it’s good for up to 500*F and chemically inert.

AF4C0187-0E62-4309-88A2-4A2EA80FC10D.jpeg
 
I am confident that the coating is PTFE.

Now, the only concern I have is how to coat them properly.

I am thinking I will heat the forks up and dip them to allow for the most absorption of the dry film with the metal heated the metals pours expand and the cooling from the film will help lock more in.

Somewhere above the operating temperature of the transmission. Just need to figure out the optimal temperature for this.


AD87BE0F-4577-4F00-BBDF-01ED5DAF5D2E.jpeg
 
Did more digging and it turns out that nascar coats all their gears, bearings and shafts for their transmissions and rear ends in PTFE in order to shed oil. This allows them to run the lightest weight oil possible and still run cool at extreme speeds and abuse.
 
So it is applied cold.

just need to clean the oil out of the forks well and apply it.

15644C0D-CDC5-4B12-82F4-388D24E7C992.png
 
Today I am taking the seats, center console,floor mat out and dropping the steering column to get ready for the pedal assembly.

really excited/anxious to see what the floor looks like underneath.

would like to get this old rusty pedal assembly blasted and painted but I’m going to have to deal with just wire wheel and paining.

will post up some progress photos shortly.
 
5 more bolts.

I’m nervous because I just pulled a seat bolt that was entirely eaten away in a portion of the floor that can’t be seen from underneath. Really hoping it’s all there and solid lol

7AE5906D-7C23-45D7-A830-C70CBD40A77F.jpeg
 
Top Bottom