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Pzuzu The Isuzu Build (RIP)

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Plated my diff cover today. Measured for my new tie rod length.

Also found out my inner C I didnt cut off the axle is bent from when i dropped it off my bench... Gonna have to fix that with the chevy wrench :weld:and a BFH on monday at work.

Just ordered all of my DOM tube I need. Got free shipping from WFO fab that saved me like $70.
4ft of 1.5in 1/4 wall for panhard bar
2 x 4ft of 2in 1/4 wall for radius arms
 
So I started on some other stuff for the axle. Really only got my dif cover plated. Wasted my time trying to unbend my inner C w/o a real torch setup.

Heres some dif cover pics.

Started in the most important spot.

SDC13273.jpg


SDC13274.jpg



Add a few more plates

SDC13275.jpg


Then the grinder fairy came.

SDC13276.jpg


SDC13277.jpg


Inside

SDC13278.jpg
 
Fixed my axle with rosie at work. Cut my radius arms down, blasted them so theyre ready to be extended when my tube gets here.

Also cleaned up my lockouts and blasted some misc BS. Moving along but no major progress.


In other news it looks like Ill be putting the 2wd chevy box in the isuzu...

The isuzu pitman arm is only 5inches long and isnt going to work with my 7in steering arm on the dana 44. I found a place that makes 5in dana 44s arms but have read reports of other isuzu swaps having less than responsive steering with that combo.

Apparently there isnt a single alternate pitman arm out there for the isuzu box.

I may seek alternative steering boxes however because switching to a forward facing pitman arm would really be ideal.

I know some scout boxes will work, and so will an FJ80 box. I may go that route because I believe I can use my stock PS lines with it.
 
How difficult do you think the shortening of the front axle was? Ideally I'm wanting to end up with around a 62 or 63 wms on a future project and shortening a front ten bolt might be a good option. I've got access to a pretty good size press and but welder so that shouldn't be an issue.
 
KansasTwister said:
How difficult do you think the shortening of the front axle was? Ideally I'm wanting to end up with around a 62 or 63 wms on a future project and shortening a front ten bolt might be a good option. I've got access to a pretty good size press and but welder so that shouldn't be an issue.
Click to expand...

This is one of the cases where the dana 44 is a better option. Theres a wide variety of off the shelf shaft lengths available for it. For a 63in WMS (which is what I have btw) I used a later model grand wagoneer long side inner shaft.

It wasnt terribly difficult. Dont bother trying to knock the C off the tube. Slicer the tube clean off and grind the C with the axle tube under facing up on a bench until you see the weld seem. Then press the tube out of the C.

For re-installing it you'll need reference measurements from the pumpkin seeing as how youll already be trimming some tube off of it that way. Then trim the tube (in my case it was 4-1/8 inches shorter) and the C will go right back on. Set the rear level in some jack stands or a jig and match the "camber angle" and caster off the bottom milled surface of the C.

Burn in on max with a good 220 machine and although not done from the factory I welded it from the end of the axle tube also.
 
Stomis said:
This is one of the cases where the dana 44 is a better option. Theres a wide variety of off the shelf shaft lengths available for it. For a 63in WMS (which is what I have btw) I used a later model grand wagoneer long side inner shaft..
Click to expand...

Any shaft that would work in a Dana 44 will work in the 10-bolt unless its the 89-up 10-bolt. so every thing you've done to the Dana 44 could be duplicated on a 10-bolt
 
yellowK20 said:
Any shaft that would work in a Dana 44 will work in the 10-bolt unless its the 89-up 10-bolt. so every thing you've done to the Dana 44 could be duplicated on a 10-bolt
Click to expand...


Eh not true. Only the stubs are the same. 10 bolt inner shafts are 28 spline, dana 44s are 30. No worky. And Im pretty sure even the 89+ 10 bolt 30 spline stuff is a different taper.
 
I was thinking about calling superior or similar and just getting a set of custom inner shafts made if it wasn't to much. wanting to build a 57 truck on a shortened long bed or extended shortbed 73 87 frame. Company makes the cab mounts. Not lifted sky high but enough to look unique.
 
KansasTwister said:
I was thinking about calling superior or similar and just getting a set of custom inner shafts made if it wasn't to much. wanting to build a 57 truck on a shortened long bed or extended shortbed 73 87 frame. Company makes the cab mounts. Not lifted sky high but enough to look unique.
Click to expand...

I was debating having my long sides resplined but for $75 a shaft I just bought a brand new yukon from rock auto.
 
I was gonna do my gears today until I realized that I forgot to yank my old carrier bearings off at work in order to make setup bearings. Why cant all rears have adjusters like a 14b... :rolleyes:

Got some random stuff done though. Put my locker in the new carrier. Put the 4.56 ring on the new carrier. Put my inner pinion bearing and oil slinger on the new pinion. Installed my knuckles on my axle. Ball joints are all good now. Painted my tierod white :pimp:

With Christmas coming up and the fact that I still need a good $500 worth of stuff Im starting to think this swap isnt happening for first snow fall. As always nothing ever goes to plan lol. Im gonna shoot to have my whole axle assembled by the end of next week. Not a super long list really.

+Put new ujoints in axle shafts, paint, install
+Setup gears
+Cut rotors, rebuild calipers
+Assemble outers with new wheels bearings.
+Install tierod
+Plumb brakes

After that its on to making my radius arms. Tube will be here monday.


Things left to purchase or make:

+Lower coil buckets
+Some sort of shock tower, probably gonna use a universal trail gear hoop
+Heims, inserts, misalignment spacers for panhard bar
+Creeper joints, double adjusters inserts for radius arms
+Coils
+Astro van steering box, plate mount for the frame, adapters or custom made lines to convert the fittings in the box to accept my factory power steering lines.




Also installed one of the old horns off the chevy in my g/fs corolla :haha:
 
Got my DOM in the mail today. After picking up a piece of 2in 1/4 wall I dont under stand how people bend links made of that :eek1:

Im still gonna put a piece of 2in c channel to cap the bottom of the arm though because Ive heard with a 40in link bending it isnt out of the questions... :doah:
 
Been totally delayed on this. I plan on putting my rear together, building my radius arms.

I put the 442 in the garage for the winter and I think Im gonna finish that so I have something to drive while I sas the trooper. So I guess Im building a big block now.

O and I really need to start saving again for my wedding now that the holidays are over..........


:doah::doah::doah::doah:
 
that's how it goes in the real world. My build thread stopped because my wheeler turned into the dd.
Now I got the dd back....and I'm too broke from Christmas to get back going on the wheeler...:doah:
 
Funny you should ask for updates. Obviously I havent really worked on this thing in quite some time. Ive been debating on picking up another daily driver and putting this project on the back burner. But Ive decided not to do that because Im simply gonna delay finishing things and have more **** hanging around.

Plus buying another truck is pretty counter productive financially to my plan of buying a harley this fall.

So whats my solution you ask? Well Im gonna fix the trooper. After finding some more terrible rot when I removed my front skid plate Ive decided to **** can the idea of trying to fix this frame. And since these trucks arent the most popular things going I figured I would not even bother trying to find a clean frame.

So today I was discussing this with the other mechanic at work when he says to me "your capable of making a frame, why not just make a box tube frame and put the straight axle in that."

To which I responded good ****ing idea. So thats what Im gonna do. Im excited to be working on something again, been really bored with the weather getting better now. What better way to spend some extra time than doing one of my favorite things, fabbing chassis stuff.

:whistle:


So lets dive into it. This is the first undertaking of mine on such a large scale. Anyone whos read this thread knows I back halved some rot off the frame already. Im just gonna need some general guidance on material thickness and design along the way.

Obviously the first place to start will be with material thickness. I know I want to use 2x3in box tube as its very close to the stock frame size wise. When I backhalved the frame in it now I used 3/16ths wall and the stuff was expensive and seemed really over kill.

Im thinking 2x3 1/8th wall will do it for the basis of the actual rails. Thoughts?

I do plan to incorporate my SAS into the frame along with new steering box setup. Im going to try to retain as much stock hookups as I can such as radiator mounts etc. One thing I know Im going to change for sure is the body mounts. Ill be using something generic from energy suspension and building 1in of body lift into the mounts rather than using pucks.
 
2x3 1/8" should be sufficient, but i also over do it on metal thickness by a long shot. There's a reason my internal cage is 2" .500 wall DOM i really don't want that ****er to bend lol.
 
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