I see. When I looked at the image last night I didn't notice that the bushings were of a different material. Pretty cool system. I wonder if that would be a good way to get rid of the funky shackle design on the front springs of a K5...
CK5
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Pzuzu The Isuzu Build (RIP)
- Thread starter Stomis
- Start date
Stomis
Professional Amateur
Yep it is. It works to replace shackles in anything. And if you want your spring rate to increase like with shackles you can simply angle the box. I've been told its a night and day difference when cornering having no shackles and that one less bushing set to tilt on.
original balzer
1/2 ton status
Are you building the slider boxes or buying them? A friend of mine did those on a samurai front and rear and it was a HUGE difference in ride quality right up until he hit a big bump then the boxes ran out of room for the springs to expand. The way I seen it he needed like 6 or 7 inch long travel in the boxes but the ones he had bought was only about 4" travel.
Also his wore the bushing rather quickly. I dont know if it was because the bushings where thin or if it was because he also ran it in mud. (I think he was cutting replacement bushings out of a kitchen cutting board) Now that I think about it I'm pretty sure he said the ones he bought where for a light duty trailer so that could have a lot to do with it. *seams like he had about 1" in compression (droop) direction and 3" in expansion direction.
Seeing what you have done so far Im sure you could build some very nice ones. Perhaps use larger slider bushings and some how include some sort of mud/dirt shield?
I can tell you, driving in town on the pavement the slider boxes where way more stable, and a smooth ride. On shackles it was a bit spooky to ride in. Off road and pot holes it just wasnt very good. I had dismissed the idea up until now. Very cool!
Also his wore the bushing rather quickly. I dont know if it was because the bushings where thin or if it was because he also ran it in mud. (I think he was cutting replacement bushings out of a kitchen cutting board) Now that I think about it I'm pretty sure he said the ones he bought where for a light duty trailer so that could have a lot to do with it. *seams like he had about 1" in compression (droop) direction and 3" in expansion direction.
Seeing what you have done so far Im sure you could build some very nice ones. Perhaps use larger slider bushings and some how include some sort of mud/dirt shield?
I can tell you, driving in town on the pavement the slider boxes where way more stable, and a smooth ride. On shackles it was a bit spooky to ride in. Off road and pot holes it just wasnt very good. I had dismissed the idea up until now. Very cool!
i think it just has to do with weight.
it seems like most of the people I've seen use those have been on the more lightweight rigs (ie Toyota minitrucks) its definitely a cool concept and hope it works out on your rig.
cant wait to see this thing finished. it should be cooler than tits on a stick when its all done.
What about not using those bushings, but some sort of sealed roller bearing setup?
If there is just a hair of space between the roller and the top and bottom plates, it would be able to roll on one or the other.
If there is just a hair of space between the roller and the top and bottom plates, it would be able to roll on one or the other.
supersize75k5
OrganDonorRacing.com
Just found this 
You sir are insane
You sir are insane
I think finding a bearing that would properly take the side loading and ride correctly on the plate would be time/cost prohibitive.
Just found this
You sir are insane
Pot v. Kettle, 2013.
Yah the side load is what Makes it not work in my brain.
I'll ponder it all day though anyways
deep breath
don't strain yourself.Yah the side load is what Makes it not work in my brain.
I'll ponder it all day though anyways
Stomis
Professional Amateur
I'm going with prefabbed sliders designed by liquid iron industries. They're really beef with 10inches of travel so its plenty. I'm not worried, the longevity reviews are awesome.
They have been using those things for years in circle track racing.
Quite a few 4x4s use em too. Have thought about using the liquid Iron ones on my Jimmy several times.
You have to watch the wear on them though, they last a while but they seem to come apart pretty quickly once they get to a certain point
You have to watch the wear on them though, they last a while but they seem to come apart pretty quickly once they get to a certain point
Stomis
Professional Amateur
I may order some spare bushings and widen the slide to increase the surface area. Double would probably make a huge difference. Ive seen guys on pirate with 1000s of mile on them with no issue though. So perhaps I should leave them alone and see how it goes.
supersize75k5
OrganDonorRacing.com
Stomis
Professional Amateur
One small step for me and my wife. One giant leap for this project!
Finally got my engine hoist back from my roommates father so off came the body. Put the thing WAY up in the air to roll the chassis out with the drive train still in it since the front clip is a "unibody" design and nothing unbolts. I'll be fixing that with some 1" DOM for the motor which was why I wasnt too concerned with choking the top of the core support with chain to pick the bitch up
I took some shots of just how bad the old frame really is/was. When I unbolted the body I found that 2 more body mounts had completely rotted off since the last time I was under there. Im sure the body lift didnt help either.
If the rain holds out tomorrow Im going to strip the remaining peripherals and lines from the engine bay, power wash, and possibly paint flat black.
Finally got my engine hoist back from my roommates father so off came the body. Put the thing WAY up in the air to roll the chassis out with the drive train still in it since the front clip is a "unibody" design and nothing unbolts. I'll be fixing that with some 1" DOM for the motor which was why I wasnt too concerned with choking the top of the core support with chain to pick the bitch up
I took some shots of just how bad the old frame really is/was. When I unbolted the body I found that 2 more body mounts had completely rotted off since the last time I was under there. Im sure the body lift didnt help either.
If the rain holds out tomorrow Im going to strip the remaining peripherals and lines from the engine bay, power wash, and possibly paint flat black.
Awesome.
Stomis
Professional Amateur
Got the leafs put together and the frame carted over to my house where the body is sitting. Dropped the body ontop of the new frame sitting on some 2x4s. Im pretty happy with it. Theres a few spots Ill have to notch and adjust some stuff but nothing crazy. The rear is just about where its going to sit height wise, frames gotta come down 2 inches there but the suspension will get lifted the same when I make some adjustments. As for the front it looks like its got another 4 inches to come down. Gotta notch the front rad support and cut the inner fenders for the shock towers.
O and as I had thought it looks like end height is going to be proper for 35s not 33s.
O and as I had thought it looks like end height is going to be proper for 35s not 33s.
454Sub
5/8 ton status
Your just a few self tapping screws away. LOL
Looks great, I would love to see this thing in real life on a trail.
Looks great, I would love to see this thing in real life on a trail.
